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Post by Scoobaru on Feb 23, 2007 12:03:09 GMT -5
If you post a link, I'll tell you how the kit compares to the one I used (ebay).
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Post by ccphil55 on Feb 26, 2007 22:06:39 GMT -5
alright here is a crazy idea, could the cam timing belt cause a majority of these problems. I have over 100,000 miles on it, and its never been changed?
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Post by ccphil55 on Mar 4, 2007 22:16:49 GMT -5
That's not the problem, the timing belt looks fine. So now i'm deciding between doing the carb and doing the motorcycle carb conversion, and if i can get a spare manifold, the conversion will be done first.
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Post by gearheadeh on Mar 6, 2007 11:04:15 GMT -5
My 2 cents.... Is it possible That the distributor is the problem , I seem to remember that they are a common weakness. But as usual expensive to replace.
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Post by ccphil55 on Mar 6, 2007 14:19:10 GMT -5
the cap has been done, and its been checked for water, those don't seem to be a problem, how do i find out if it is the distributor that is the problem?
Also how does that explain that I have full throttle, some idle crappy as it may be, but the midrange is totally hosed, it sounds like its running on only two cylinders when only half throttle, and wiggling the accelerator pump while holding in the midrange, the car runs fine.
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Post by Scoobaru on Mar 7, 2007 0:34:08 GMT -5
Something you might try for the idle, try screwing out the idle mixture screw and blasting some carb cleaner down the opening. Before you pull the screw out, turn in all the way and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then remove, clean, and reinsert all the way til it bottoms out again, then back it out the number of turns you counted before.
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Post by ccphil55 on Mar 7, 2007 11:11:40 GMT -5
how do i get that cap off of the screw without pulling the carb apart?
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Post by Scoobaru on Mar 7, 2007 12:07:30 GMT -5
Good question, the carb I worked on already had the plug removed, I think the manual says something about drilling it out, but that would be tough without removing the carb. I had one that I tried to drill out and i broke a couple of bits before giving up, and that was with the carb removed.
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Post by ccphil55 on Mar 9, 2007 10:08:51 GMT -5
alright so its just a matter of brute force, there is no real nice textbook way to remove it then? I do have an extra gasket for where the carb meets the manifold is it possible to remove the carb only wrecking that gasket?
On a side note, I"m leaving today for a week of spring break, so it will be a couple of weeks before i get home again in order to check this out.
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Post by Scoobaru on Mar 9, 2007 10:46:57 GMT -5
Prolly much easier to get at with the carb removed, although it's a pain having to pull off all those hoses....
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Post by ccphil55 on Mar 26, 2007 19:58:30 GMT -5
well its not the 02 sensor, i changed that last night and then drove 2 hoursa, every tank for the last 2-3 tanks has had truck formula carb cleaner in it which has helped some, at least now i have full throttle back again, and with a rather high idle setting it will stay running at the light, it is still very not right.
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Post by ccphil55 on Apr 1, 2007 22:42:37 GMT -5
alright to make this more interesting In the middle of my 2.5 hour drive home this past weekend, the justy ran correctly for about 40min or so before it returned to running like crap. Can't wait to have the carb right this weekend.
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Post by ccphil55 on Apr 7, 2007 17:20:25 GMT -5
Alright here's another update. I got the carb kit and went through cleaning what i could without stripping things out. Before the carb job i did, the car had full throttle and nothing else consistantly. Now I have a great idle, but the troubles start in around 3k on up when i accelerate, and full throttle hesitates. I don't know what the adjustment was on the low speed screw (the one that you need to drill to get to) so i know that is off in adjustment, but it doesn't seem to affect my problem much. until it warms up the car is undriveable yet again, but now i don't even have full throttle. the only other thing that i couldn't figure out, is the adjustment for how far the float can move in the open position it says 46.6 mm is the measurement, but that would put the float somewhere outside the confines of the carburater. It acts like its starving for fuel so i may just attack the float and start adjusting at random till i get this working right, i kinda need it for tomorrow so i can make it to family gatherings for easter. Any help is greatly appreciated
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Post by Scoobaru on Apr 7, 2007 22:38:07 GMT -5
The adjusting screw that you had to drill to access is the idle mixture screw. See my carb post for comments on that. If it is too far in then your idle mixture will be too rich (crappy idle) plus some hesitation on acceleration (until rich mixture clears out).
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Post by ccphil55 on Apr 8, 2007 11:58:50 GMT -5
I'll try that, if this doesn't work this car and the extra engine and tranny i just got for it are gonna be up for sale.
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Post by ccphil55 on Apr 17, 2007 22:31:09 GMT -5
Alright I'm less annoyed with it now, and will be attempting to get it going this weekend again. Another question that has come up, how often should the valve lash be set, and is there any good way to do it?
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Post by ccphil55 on Apr 17, 2007 22:36:11 GMT -5
forgot, one more question for tonight that i can't for the life of me find, what should the ohm resistance across the duty selenoid?
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Post by Scoobaru on Apr 18, 2007 10:11:36 GMT -5
valve lash should be checked I think every 20-30k km or so. It is pretty quick and easy to do, and can make a HUGE difference. I will try and ohm out a duty solenoid for you.
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Post by Quidam on Apr 18, 2007 10:32:34 GMT -5
Alright I'm less annoyed with it now, and will be attempting to get it going this weekend again. Another question that has come up, how often should the valve lash be set, and is there any good way to do it? Hey, Valve lash...I think it may be factory recommended at 60K. Me, if it needs it, I do it, whenever. I use a remote starter switch and pull the spark plugs. You won't have to do either to set the lash. I set the lash, then I roll it over a few times. Then I check each one again. The sequence I use is cylinder # 1-3-2, the firing order. Top dead center after the exhaust stroke. .006 exhaust and .010 intake clearance. Use angle feeler gages if you have them. Try not to mangle the lock nuts or adjuster screw when you do it. Top dead center, loosen lock nut, insert feeler gage, adjust adjuster screw, set the lash...then tighten lock nut without moving the adjustment screw. Check the lash again, adjust if needed. That's it
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Post by Quidam on Apr 18, 2007 17:49:21 GMT -5
How about .006" for the intakes and .010" for the exhaust valves. It makes better sense this way as more clearance is given to the hottest valves. I haven't burnt a valve yet in a justy, has anyone?? stacks You're right, I typed it back-wards. Nope, no burned valves in about 80,000 miles in two different Justys. Right now I do have two failing water pump/oil seals, and the same two have low oil pressure as well. 70,000 miles on one, 73,000 miles on the other. I ordered a new "test" gage so I can get a better look at the oil pressure. It's a 50 psi gage for 8N 9N Ford tractors. So it goes... Later on
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