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Post by BrassJusty on Jul 31, 2004 19:37:58 GMT -5
I don't know where else to turn in regards to this car. I was driving it few weeks ago and the brakes failed, I mean nothing, then they came back after I pumped them up a bit. I had just had it inspected and had replaced a caliper. I checked out the master cyl which seemed to be bad so I replaced it. It did it again and I took it to a garage, where they determined it to have a bad new master cyl. They replaced it again. I lost the brakes again today on the way home from the garage. There are no fluid leaks anywhere as the canister is always full. The brakes are all good, front are new, no rotted lines, no nothing. I am clueless. We thought there might be something wrong with the brake booster, so I unhooked it and plugged it off. The pedal feels a bit better? I have never heard of a booster giving TOO MUCH power assist that the pedal goes to the floor.... Any ideas? I don't want to junk this little car, it saves my old cars in the winter!
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Post by SUBIEJIM on Jul 31, 2004 23:54:23 GMT -5
Sounds like some air in the system... When the brakes failed the first time (bad caliper) it may have pulled some air into the system during several brake applies. Alot of folks/shops gravity bleed just the wheel involved when changing out just one caliper..This is sometimes ok, depending on how the caliper failed. If any air was pulled or pumped through the system during any of the repairs, all the gravity bleeding in the world will not remove all of it. (Hence..BAD/NO Pedal)
Try this...Put the car on jack stands and remove the wheels. Next get a buddy to sit in the car and pump the brake pedal slowly 3 pumps and hold pressure on it. Go to the wheel the furthest away from the master cyl and open the bleeder screw.
Two things will happen: First...The pedal will go to the floor as soon as you open the bleeded screw, this is normal (DO NOT let your buddy take his foot off the brake pedal until you have closed the bleeder screw!!) Second... More than likely you will see a shot/squirt of air and brake fluid come out of the bleeder screw after you open it. At this point tighten the bleeder screw and repeat
You will have to repeat these steps at each wheel several times untill you get a steady stream/shot of brake fluid from each wheel.
Remember..Start at the wheel furthest from the master cyl and finish at the wheel closest to it. Add fluid to the master cyl after bleeding each wheel.
Sorry this is so long but, I really think there is air in the system....(Your other new master cyl was probably fine!) They probably just bench bleed the new master they put on and did not bleed the entire system. Thats why you have the same problem.
Hope this works...again sorry for the length
Jim
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Post by justyfanatic2 on Aug 1, 2004 22:15:10 GMT -5
I have had this problem in the past. Mine turned out to be the booster. I hope your is just air as was posted previously. When mine went the symtoms started like you described then the pedal lost all feeling but the brakes would hold when the pedal reached half way down but you did not feel any braking effort what so ever, just a sick floating pedal.
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Post by RustyJusty on Aug 22, 2004 18:52:23 GMT -5
don;t forget to continually top up the brake fluid when you do this. Don;t let the reservoir run dry!
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