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Post by larryb on Aug 9, 2019 22:20:46 GMT -5
My 92 carb....had a starting problem a couple of weeks ago. Just wouldn't start. Smelled like it flooded out.
Crank, crank...nothing. Would hear the fuel pump wobbling like it normally does.
Tried to see if there was any codes in the ECU....no.
I thought it was overheated...it was a really hot day when it died. Eventually it started, after I wiggled all the wires...and fgot it home. Realized that it was running a bit warmer than usual according to the temp gauge.
Tried to pull ECU codes...but nothing. The FCV solenoid was VERY warm...so I disconnected it. Did it help? Not sure.
Got it home...and hosed the carb with carb cleaner....it ran pretty well.
A week later, I wanted to move it, (it was cold) and it wouldn't start.... what a pain.
Rolled it out of the way to get my project done....later that aftn. I got it to start up...but it was running pretty rough.
Started looking at plugs and wires.....plugs were pretty nice...so I re-gapped them at 0.040". Pulled the wires...and realized that the coli wire ON the coil looked pretty corroded! Looks like some moisture got in and caused it. Went after the corriosion with a wire brush and pick, in BOTH cable and Coil....the coil socket was pretty bad. Hit the coil with a pick and brake cleaner...nasty.
After cleaning both ends up.....put it back together, and it's running ok, so far.
Not sure if you folks out there have seen this....but IF you do....LOOK at the wires.
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Post by larryb on Sept 18, 2019 19:29:35 GMT -5
Just to follow up my issue.... The car has had a couple of no-start times....I just re-seated the coil wire and off it would go. Yesterday I was leaving the grocery store. Pulling out from the stop light, I heard the FCV valve 'clank' twice, quickly... as it clanked, the engine seemed to be stalling out. The car was already warmed up, so it shouldn't have activated. After the episode, it was ok. I made it down the road about two miles...and needed to make a left at the light. As I slowed down to stop for the light, the engine died. Crank, crank...nothing. Tried the coil wire again. Nothing. After pushing the bugger off the road, I walked home. Got back to it four hours later... Got in...Fired right up, like nothing happened. So My initial coil wire corrosion diagnosis did NOT solve the problem, and I'm at a loss as to what is the cause. As mentioned in some other threads...I've looked at the ECM...even checked the caps with and ESR meter...they look ok. The conformal coating on the circuit board looks good, too. It would be nice to try an ECM swap. Put it back together and started it back up. Let it idle until it warmed up, and was trying to check the wiring to see if there was a break. Nothing found from jiggling the wiring around the dist, carb, and firewall. Maybe a ground issue? Both look good, but I should clean them up. My gut is leaning towards a wiring issue...since I heard the FCV pop at the time of the failure. That should be quiet after it's warmed up...so something either lost power or shorted. Fuses all check ok. These intermittent problems are a royal bugger to figure out.
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Post by larryb on Oct 10, 2019 17:37:10 GMT -5
Just keeping the board up on what's happening...
New old stock coil. (Standard UF-38, if you can find it.) No improvement.
All I can figure out is that there's NO spark.
Used a meter and test light to check the two wires from the distributor and the three from the coil module. No broken wires to the ECU.
I checked the ignition relay by swapping with the radiator fan relay....no change. Fuel relay is ok and pumping.
So....
All I can deduce it to is either the ECU or the module by the coil. Is this module the ignition control module??
Both are VERY expensive, and I can't justify throwing the money away if they still doesn't solve the problem.
Does anyone have a spare that I could try?
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Post by larryb on Oct 29, 2019 21:11:15 GMT -5
Last follow up: Determined that it must be the power transistor (Ignitor) for the coil.... Moved to discussion in thread for the Ignitor sham
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Post by larryb on Feb 24, 2020 23:55:16 GMT -5
Was warm enough to get under the hood and continue to get my head around this issue.
I've replaced the coil. No change Tried another ECU. No change Tried replacing the ignitor transistor with an ECG98 worked for a bit, then fried.
If it starts...it runs until warm, the dies. Can hear the FCV snap right before it stalls.
While running i've tried pulling out the inductive pickup (green) connector from the distributor, and it causes the same FCV snap, and IF i can plug it in quick enough..it will keep running...but most of the time, it stalls the engine..and then it won't start again.
Shows no spark using a neon spark tester.
Now it's just a coin toss if it'll start or not. Warm or cold.
FYI: could this be a possible ignitor replacement?
It's an SMP (standard motor products) LX-665 OR an SMP 49231WM.
Saw these on ebay for a Nissan 200SX. Expensive! Would probably have to hack the wiring ends, but maybe???
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Post by larryb on Apr 3, 2020 16:02:43 GMT -5
Last update, for a while. I hope!
After a lot of poking and probing, it appears that the pickup coil in the distributor was the main culprit.
Got to a point where the resistance check of the pickup coil would show an open circuit. I'm assuming that it was getting weaker and weaker as time went on, and it finally died. A replacement distributor from a junkyard was installed, and it appears to be working well after it got warmed up. The original would fail after getting hot, BUT it would still show some resistance on a meter. It was probably too weak to carry the signal to the ECU.
I thought about buying a NEW pickup coil. It's a Standard Motor Products LX-541. The used Dist I got was less than the new pickup coil...so I tried that first.
Another issue that may have caused this is that the oil seal in the Dist fails, then the pickup gets soaked. Possible. I replaced the Dist bearing and seal back years ago...look for the thread I was posting in for the info on those parts.
Anyway...starting AND running again after almost a year of headache. I hope it lasts for a while.
The sad part is that none of the parts stores can find these parts via a simple lookup. Isn't that why they started using computers for? Geesh.
Hope the info here helps someone out.
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