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Post by davidakachops on Dec 17, 2015 20:41:53 GMT -5
5-speed manual transmission 93 Subaru Justy. First time removing an engine. I have all the wires, hoses, mounts undone. The bolts attaching the engine to the transmission/clutch/where the flywheel is are removed. I have the engine separated a good inch or more but its stuck. It looks like it wants to come out but, it feels like its stuck in the middle when I wiggle it around. I dont know the name of the part but maybe its the rod that the throwout bearing slides over? Maybe I am still attached to that? Is there a trick to this? Maybe I need to reattach the transmission to the engine, then detach the transmission from the car and lift it all out so I can work on it with more room to work? OR Keep transmission detached from engine but also detach transmission from car and wiggle it apart where it is in the engine compartment? OR ?
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 18, 2015 1:47:29 GMT -5
Is the crank pulley hitting the fender apron? I will remove the crank pulley when leaving the trans in the car.
Also support/lift the bellhousing of the trans so you're not pulling it up with the engine, or else the input shaft will bind in the clutch when the angles are different.
If all else fails recheck for brackets, wires, etc that could be holding it together.
Terry
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Post by davidakachops on Dec 18, 2015 11:07:05 GMT -5
Sounds like I am on the right track. Good to know that removing the engine is possible while leaving the trans in the car. I still have about an inch before the pulley hits the wall but will remove it since that sounds like you have had experience with it. I will try your suggestion of getting the bell housing secure with a jack and try to slide it free while minimizing any potential binding of the input shaft. I will keep at it and post back about what happens. Thanks!
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Post by certimafied on Dec 18, 2015 18:08:22 GMT -5
I am with Armageddous 100%, lift that trans up at the bell housing at the same time your lifting the engine. I remember it being at a pretty good angle before I got the input shaft to disengage the clutch assembly. I think I ended up detaching the cv axles so I could get the trans to articulate enough.
If I was to do it again though to be honest I would pull the two as a unit and detach them outside of the car. After rebuilding my engine I pulled the trans and did some work on it then put them back in together all assembled. It seemed to take a couple hours and some expletives to get the engine out by itself and about 30 min to drop them both in together. The mount studs even fell right into their holes.
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Post by davidakachops on Dec 19, 2015 17:11:59 GMT -5
OK, thanks. So if I want to just pull the engine and transmission out together, then I need to: Disconnect the CV axles. First from the wheel area (whatever the name is) then pry out from transmission. Disconnect any hoses/cables leading to the transmission (engine is already done) lift engine/transmission slightly with cherry picker. Detach transmission from mounts/crossbeam underneath. then lift everything out. Did I miss anything? Impact wrench. Looks like I am going to need that. Going tool shopping The transmission must be attached to the driveline that heads out to the rear end somehow. Is it obvious when I get to that point what needs done?
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Post by Mato393 on Dec 25, 2015 6:15:45 GMT -5
it is 4WD right? I think you need to remove front arms crossmember dry trans oil and remove rear drive shaft (trans oil will leak when you pull it out) and pull engine and trans. down... I have done it DIY way like this:
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Post by bizarro on Dec 25, 2015 9:05:13 GMT -5
@mato-Are you like me and have NO xmas plans?
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Post by certimafied on Dec 26, 2015 20:43:18 GMT -5
You are absolutely right Mato and David you do have to remove the rear drive shaft from the trans. I dont think I fully removed the rear drive shaft just unbolted it, I did mark both flanges so I could bolt it back together the same way.
Mato did you pull yours from the bottom? I pulled my engine separate from the trans from the top then pulled the trans later.
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Post by Mato393 on Dec 27, 2015 7:29:29 GMT -5
Mato did you pull yours from the bottom? I pulled my engine separate from the trans from the top then pulled the trans later. The rear part of trans (where the drive shaft is) is in middle of firewall and front arms crossmember I can't pull it out with crossmember on place and when I have removed crossmember i just drop it down...
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Post by davidakachops on Dec 29, 2015 18:58:03 GMT -5
OK, making progress. Here is what I am currently stuck on as I work toward removing the CV joints from the transmission so I can pull the engine and transmission out together. I pulled the wheel, the pads/calipers off, tie rod disconnected, and the disk brake off. The manual I have says just to pry out the CV joint from the transmission at this point. I gave it a good go, but its not moving more than an inch or so and so not coming out. Questions: Am I going to need a coil compressor for the coil/strut to disconnect the control arm so I can get more room? Or is it OK to disconnect (and then reconnect later) the control arm without compressing the coil? Or should I just be able to pry out the CV axle at this point like the manual says? Maybe I just need to wrestle with it some more. I am going to get this engine out sooner or later. also I just went tool shopping (YAY!) and bought an impact wrench and it is making life a lot easier. Thanks so much for the help everybody!!!
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 29, 2015 22:28:21 GMT -5
The axles are held on to the transmission with roll pins, they need to be removed with a drift.
Terry
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Post by madmatt on Dec 30, 2015 9:25:54 GMT -5
Just catching up here. ..
I find going out the top easiest... if you have a engine hoist. getting the car high enough to take the unit out the bottom is tough without a pit or a hoist or really high ramps.
do make sure to pull the rad support (the bolt in metal frame section at the top) this gives you a ton of room!
as Terry mentioned there are roll pins keeping the cv's on the stub shafts. carefully push these out with a punch and hammer. note the hole is off-center so when putting it back together you must sight the hole and mke sure you don't have 180 degrees off. it will wreck the pin.
you don't need a spring compressor. i like to pull one side to give a bit more room. if you have a second gen with the equal length axles it won't matter which. if yours has the long right hand axle shaft, pull that side. if you dont have a ball joint puller, it's probably easier to leave the tapered portion of the ball joint in the control arm and pull the ball end out of the spindle. the bolt that holds it in is small... and if rusted with BREAK leaving you with a mess. so hit it with PB blaster or equivalent a day ahead and use your new impact. the bolt must come right out to pull the joint. just that lower joint will give enough room to pull the one axle off the stub shaft, then you can slide the motor in that direction to get the other.
dont forget the tranny mount at the back, i n the subframe that connects to control arms. it's hard to see up inside a little recessed box...
i hate to think how many times I've pulled that motor. probably more then 10. i finally tried leaving the transmission in last time, and will NEVER do that again. just not enough space for the job. it took way more time fiddling trying to get it out, and once out, i gave up trying to put it back in with transmission in place, and pulled the transmission...
I'm under 1 hour to pull the motor by myself if I'm organized... so adding 20 mins of swearing to eliminate a step just isn't worth it.
good luck!
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Post by davidakachops on Dec 30, 2015 14:29:23 GMT -5
Did it! Got both the CV axles removed. Didnt have a set of drifts so I found a nail just the right size, cut the tip off and it worked perfectly, no damage to the pin. So now, all thats left to pull this sucker is to disconnect the driveshaft from the transmission, and unbolt the transmission mounts! Fantastic! (oh yeah and then pull it out, separate the trans from the engine, rebuild the motor and put it all back together again, piece of cake)
All you tips and tricks are a super big help and much appreciated. Thank you!
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Post by madmatt on Dec 30, 2015 14:34:36 GMT -5
i just pull the shaft out of the back of the transmission.
if you unbolt the center hanger, the shaft will drop down, in my car tht is enough to give some slack to help line it up when it goes back in. i rarely loose more then a few drops of oil. but of course you could drain the tranny first.
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Post by davidakachops on Dec 30, 2015 17:04:44 GMT -5
VICTORY!!!
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Post by gearheadeh on Dec 30, 2015 18:51:59 GMT -5
Congrats on getting it out, I noticed that you did not remove the rad and rad support ?
What I do is block up the car on 6 by 6 inch blocks on the frame just behind the front wheel well. Then I remove the inside lower control arm bolt on the drivers side. I pry the whole strut assembly away from the trans and the axle falls away. With both pins out of the CV joints and the engine hanging up from the mounts, I just pry in from the engine side towards the trans side where there is more room in order to get the other drive axle off, if you have a first gen or one with out a equalizing driveshaft lengthener you would need to remove both roll pins but if you are having trouble getting at the one under the engine and it is a Second gen then sometimes you can just slide the axle off of the trans if you unbolt the 3 bolts holding the support on. That little nut on the stud that holds the lower rear mount at the tailshaft is hard to find if you are not looking for it!!
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Post by davidakachops on Jan 18, 2016 19:42:26 GMT -5
I did remove the rad, to protect it from the engine smashing it, but not the support. Engine lifted up right over it, no problem.
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Post by lowmilagedude on Jan 21, 2023 7:35:16 GMT -5
Hello, i have made this account for help on my justy It's a 1992 GL2 5 door model with an EF12 carbureted motor i am in the middle of disassembling it to change the water pump mechanical seal and have stumbled into a problem, (for reference, the engine is still in the car) i need to remove the main motor mount under the car to remove the flywheel cover and oil pan, and was planning to hold the engine up but don't know where to bolt the engine to hold it up. Any help is appriceated sorry for bad english, it not be first language
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