dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Jan 4, 2012 16:23:12 GMT -5
hmm, i have an '86 EF10 with the original mounts, and the side ones are still solid enough to hold the weight of the motor. I'm not saying to leave it like that for long periods, but for the 45 mins it takes to do a CV job, its not going to do any damage. Speaking as a mechanic who does these jobs daily, if the side mounts can't take the load, or show signs of splitting then they are stuffed and should be replaced anyway. Supporting the motor under the bell housing is a good idea, but you try swinging at the roll pins when you have a jack in the way.
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Post by ario56 on Nov 11, 2012 13:56:31 GMT -5
Nice write-up! I replaced my half-shafts yesterday on my '88. I'm so stuck in my ways with pulling the lower ball joint when doing axles I never would've even thought of pulling the bolt out for the control arm.
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Post by 12packjusty on Aug 3, 2016 0:56:50 GMT -5
I just had such a hard time doing my passenger side CV that I had to disassemble the cv. I first removed the rubber boot on the cv at the side facing the transmission, took the metal part of the cv (which is splined), I then lined up the part best I could, and then tapped it on with a wood block and hammer. After two hours of wrestling a greasy shaft this was the only way I could get the cv on the transmission splines. After I had the part on I easily reassembled the cv and rewired the boot.
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Post by justine on Aug 14, 2016 14:27:59 GMT -5
Ive had issues with my passenger side in the past aswell. I still have an issue with it when doing left turns the inner boot clamp taps my oil pan because the clearance is soo close. The clearance also makes dropping the oil pan a pain with the passenger axle in there
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Post by earthbounding on Sept 2, 2016 20:23:13 GMT -5
there’s a hole in the cross-member to drive out the roll pin on the right side. I use a screwdriver (and a claw hammer) with the end cut off that's the same diameter as the hole the roll pin goes in. torque your front axle nuts to 177 n-m (18 kg-m, 130ft-lb), re-tighten nut within 30* to align holes for cotter pin. Very important step
i had to replace my front axles and hubs 3 times. i think an under torqued nut, badly worn bearings and or steering/suspension (mine was beyond worn) causes the nut to loosen, shearing the cotter pin, allowing the axle to slide out of the hub and shred the splines.
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