Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Jan 6, 2011 10:37:39 GMT -5
Perhaps put a few more miles on it?? Can somebody give me the short and sweet of pullin' codes? Terry, has your check engine light come on? If so just look at the light on the computer when the engine is running and the CEL is lit; you needn't plug together anything, the led will be flashing the code. Long flashes equal ten and short equal one(two long three short is 23). Next check that number against this key. If you have more than one code active it will flash each and then repeat. Is that what you are looking for, Terry? Details about reading codes from the computer memory et cetera. Danimal
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 6, 2011 19:21:40 GMT -5
Yea thats good. Looks like I need to wire in my CEL Terry
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 11, 2011 23:01:41 GMT -5
I did not wire in my CEL but I did find out what was wrong with my car. The major issue was what I said before, the O2 sensor not providing a signal. I also found the PCV valve was leaking a lot at idle, my car barely had -10 at idle. After replacement I got about -15 vacuum at idle but it was really lumpy, bouncing around and still not really enough. So I figured I either got a bad valve or they were out of adjustment. Sure enough I pulled the valve cover, started adjusting them and found 2 or 3 that were set too tight. Now it is all back together and the thing runs amazing. Because they were set tight I couldn't hear anything wrong. That's my bad for setting them by eye before the motor went in. Now I just need to fix my oil leak and my car will be fantastic. The oil is coming from my oil pan gasket (silicone) on my pan I made. Luckily the structure is not leaking. Terry
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Post by anthill on Jan 13, 2011 14:21:40 GMT -5
Well done, good work and great explanations.
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 21, 2011 1:14:39 GMT -5
Fixed a horrendous oil leak from the oil pan where it meets the block. It would seem the "spacer" used with the second generation motors really sucks and needed to find the garbage can in order to seal my motor up. This resealing procedure afforded me the opportunity to inspect my bearings for wear, and I must say.. they look awesome! Mind you I have a grand total of about 500km on my new engine and this will be the third oil change it's had, however I've driven it pretty hard a couple times while showing off. Which reminds me, I need to take a video so you can all see it in action. Running condition is solved as far as I'm concerned, I still need to find time to clean up my wiring, re-loom it all and relocate the fuel pump out from under the hood. I'm also going to redo the exhaust because I'm not getting any back pressure, and I'm fairly certain I need a little bit which I will do when I build a header. Otherwise, the EFI combined with a light flywheel and a first gen car is pretty mental. I find myself dancing around the lane when it's wet out in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears, even with "wide" 13" wheels. I can take most vehicles off the line, especially when it's wet out and the engine pulls hard well into 6000rpm. This is one reason I would like to give the engine some back pressure and hopefully even out the power band and maybe gain some drive ability. Also on my to do list is build another oil pan, one that is better looking, is baffled, utilizes a crank scraper, has better ground clearance and leaves room for the header I'm going to make It's never going to be perfect at this rate! Terry
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Post by justyjuggler on Jan 23, 2011 23:03:15 GMT -5
...Ingenuity! While your pump design may have some alignment and sealing issues, you should be commended for attempting a 'bolt-on' style design. Makes me wonder...
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 23, 2011 23:16:55 GMT -5
Well, the pump is running in my engine currently, and the oil pressure is perfectly in spec with no oil leaks anymore. Although the pump never leaked. My oil pressure is 50+ psi cold, at any rpm including idle. After it heats up and I drive around I get 10psi at idle (800rpm) and 30 at 2000rpm, with 44 (max pressure) at 3000rpm. My machinist says "10 psi per thousand rpm" which raises concerns when the engine is winding out at 4500+. I guess this is why in my owners manual it says "Never exceed 4000rpm unless in an emergency situation." (Like what, running from the cops? ) My engine will pull unlimited rpm. I have not maxed it out.. With the light flywheel and good valve grind, plus the new engine, the throttle response it lightening fast. If anyone has an EFI fuel tank around that can answer some questions for me click here. Terry
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2011 11:23:15 GMT -5
This is really awesome.. I am so jealous. I really love my '93 2WD but I cannot imagine how amazing this engine would be in a lighter body. It's already pretty surprisingly fast, and I have never had an issue keeping up with anyone on the back roads. Anyway, still looking for a 1st gen... After everything you have done here, do you think it would be feasible to put an '87 and a '93 FWD in my garage and basically swap everything from the '93 over to the '87? Do all the "holes line up" is what I mean...? That is basically what I have done with my Impreza project - swapping my '95 L coupe over to 2004 WRX and it's worked out really well so far. The only cutting I have had to do was on the firewall to fit the '98 HVAC setup in my '95 body. I am swapping the interior to '98-'01 spec at the same time because I like the dash a lot better and it has more places for gauges and such.. Fixed a horrendous oil leak from the oil pan where it meets the block. It would seem the "spacer" used with the second generation motors really sucks and needed to find the garbage can in order to seal my motor up. This resealing procedure afforded me the opportunity to inspect my bearings for wear, and I must say.. they look awesome! Mind you I have a grand total of about 500km on my new engine and this will be the third oil change it's had, however I've driven it pretty hard a couple times while showing off. Which reminds me, I need to take a video so you can all see it in action. Running condition is solved as far as I'm concerned, I still need to find time to clean up my wiring, re-loom it all and relocate the fuel pump out from under the hood. I'm also going to redo the exhaust because I'm not getting any back pressure, and I'm fairly certain I need a little bit which I will do when I build a header. Otherwise, the EFI combined with a light flywheel and a first gen car is pretty mental. I find myself dancing around the lane when it's wet out in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears, even with "wide" 13" wheels. I can take most vehicles off the line, especially when it's wet out and the engine pulls hard well into 6000rpm. This is one reason I would like to give the engine some back pressure and hopefully even out the power band and maybe gain some drive ability. Also on my to do list is build another oil pan, one that is better looking, is baffled, utilizes a crank scraper, has better ground clearance and leaves room for the header I'm going to make It's never going to be perfect at this rate! Terry
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 25, 2011 21:37:08 GMT -5
Depending what you're planning to swap I suppose. The engines bolt up no problem, with the exception of the motor mounts being different. The wiring can be done 2 ways. Either do what I did, or tear out the dashboard and swap absolutely everything. I maintained my '88 suspension, brakes, sub frame, steering rack etc so I can't tell you what would swap over. Maybe be a little more specific? Terry
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 28, 2011 19:53:09 GMT -5
Depending what you're planning to swap I suppose. The engines bolt up no problem, with the exception of the motor mounts being different. The wiring can be done 2 ways. Either do what I did, or tear out the dashboard and swap absolutely everything. I maintained my '88 suspension, brakes, sub frame, steering rack etc so I can't tell you what would swap over. Maybe be a little more specific? Terry Ohhhhkay. It's far-fetched, but if I were to actually do this, I would tear both bodies down to the body shell, leaving the glass, doors, brake lines and possibly fuel lines attached to the 1st Gen body. I would want to end up with a 1st Gen with 2nd Gen suspension, engine/trans, axles, radiator, wiring harness in full, interior, and plan on swapping connections for things like lights and stuff that would not change on the 1st Gen body. I would swap suspension because I would want 2nd Gen GL/4x4 brakes and equal length axles. Regardless, I am pretty sure it's not gonna happen.
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Jan 28, 2011 21:36:27 GMT -5
Depending what you're planning to swap I suppose. The engines bolt up no problem, with the exception of the motor mounts being different. The wiring can be done 2 ways. Either do what I did, or tear out the dashboard and swap absolutely everything. I maintained my '88 suspension, brakes, sub frame, steering rack etc so I can't tell you what would swap over. Maybe be a little more specific? Terry Ohhhhkay. It's far-fetched, but if I were to actually do this, I would tear both bodies down to the body shell, leaving the glass, doors, brake lines and possibly fuel lines attached to the 1st Gen body. I would want to end up with a 1st Gen with 2nd Gen suspension, engine/trans, axles, radiator, wiring harness in full, interior, and plan on swapping connections for things like lights and stuff that would not change on the 1st Gen body. I would swap suspension because I would want 2nd Gen GL/4x4 brakes and equal length axles. Regardless, I am pretty sure it's not gonna happen. I don't know if the Gen2 radiator will bolt into the Gen1 engine bay. I think the core support is different. The Gen2 actually has a deeper (longer) engine bay and I didn't believe it either until I measured bot my Gen1 and Gen2 to see for myself.
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 28, 2011 22:28:46 GMT -5
Second gen radiator will not fit into a first gen. I'm running equal length axles with first gen axles and hubs, I just used a lh axle on the right side with the stub shaft. What you plan to do sounds like a lot of work, and you will run into a lot of issues regarding the wiring and what it hooks up to. You may end up switching absolutely everything over to second gen. Terry
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Post by Armageddous on May 18, 2011 23:00:01 GMT -5
Update.. I put an EFI gas tank in my car, which cleaned up my swap by relocating my fuel pump from a inline under the hood, to the stock in the tank (Y'know, the proper place!). Then, I added a fuel filter where my old low pressure fuel pump sat, in front of the rear wheel. Now I know my fuel pressure is correct which is nice. I was able to set my timing correctly which sort of tells me how far off the old fuel pressure really was, and now my engine no longer pings on cheap gas! Terry
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Post by Armageddous on May 30, 2011 22:53:50 GMT -5
Worked out some more kinks and my car is getting 29mpg consistently in the city, can't wait to spin it on the highway for a long haul! Terry
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 13, 2011 20:33:38 GMT -5
Although not related directly to my EFI swap, I thought I should continue this as part of my build. I decided to build a small tubular header for 2 reasons. 1 is I wanted my O2 sensor to be in stream and close to the engine, so it gets to proper temperature *right now it's in the downtube). 2, because my collector design currently seems restrictive, and I want to test a theory. So here goes! I still plan to weld around the ports then sand them flat with a belt sander to ensure the header seals properly. Then, I will add a flange where the collector is so I can remove it if I need to. I am going to smooth out the rough edges inside the collector, and make the outlet actually round as well. So far I like the way it turned out. Terry
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Post by 88redjustygl on Jun 28, 2011 5:42:02 GMT -5
I have an 87 FWD Justy and I found a 4WD 90 that has a carb engine and I want an EFI engine. My friend who might sell it to me also has an EFI Justy as well and he could give me the EFI parts, what would I need to make the 90 an EFI? or swap it into the 87 and maybe suspension if it's better?
I really want a 4WD Justy with EFI engine. I prefer the 1st gen body style and I have a really clean 87 so that would be my prefered destination for the EFI and 4WD but the camber is really bad on that car so if the 2nd gen is adjustable I'd certainly want to swap that onto it.
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libero
Libero E-10 & Justy J-12
Posts: 22
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Post by libero on Jul 12, 2011 21:29:16 GMT -5
WOW great proyect¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡
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Post by jellydonut on Sept 25, 2011 8:22:26 GMT -5
I so want to do this. My 60,000 km '85 would be a perfect host for the 9V 1.2. Not a lot of rust either! It's just hamstrung by the frankly poor carb engine. Please don't stop updating the thread, it *is* very interesting! I take it the car is still 4WD - did you keep the transfer box, shafts and diff from the gen 1 or is that also gen 2?
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Post by Armageddous on Sept 26, 2011 23:05:26 GMT -5
The motor/trans are 2nd gen and the driveshaft/rearend are 1st gen. I really should update this thread as I have done quite a bit more. Terry
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Post by Armageddous on Apr 26, 2012 21:44:03 GMT -5
Just a random engine bay picture. I will have you note it has been nearly a year since this swap took place and I still haven't cleaned up the wiring.. But it's just been running flawlessly so it's hard to justify changing anything. Also I am building a MegaSquirt setup for my car now and I will put my efforts into making that look nice instead of polishing the proverbial turd. Enjoy! Terry
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