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Post by Armageddous on Oct 28, 2010 23:01:13 GMT -5
Or maybe that engine will become mine one day. Terry
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2010 16:16:41 GMT -5
If you could get me a flange I would make you one no problem. I do not have any extra flanges at this time.. Sweet! But.. Which flange would you need? I am just talking about the thing that bolts to the bottom of the manifold where the cat was. Before I saw yours, what I had been thinking about how to do that was this: take a piece of sheet (was thinking 3/8" so it would be strong and I wouldn't have to think about it again), use the cat as a template to get the shape and the placement of the bolt holes, then cut a hole in that and set in a piece of flared pipe (from the top) and weld it around the inside like a header so the pipe could have room to expand/contract. I wanted to end up with something like what you have that opened around say 3" and tapered down to around 2" to feed into a generic cat that I could put about where the 2nd cat is now.
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Post by Armageddous on Oct 29, 2010 20:44:21 GMT -5
I just cut the flange off the original cat and made the reducer. Take your cat out, cut the flange off and send me the flange or buy a gasket and trace out a flange. Oh and I sold my cat for $60 at the time. Terry
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Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2010 19:39:39 GMT -5
I just cut the flange off the original cat and made the reducer. Take your cat out, cut the flange off and send me the flange or buy a gasket and trace out a flange. Oh and I sold my cat for $60 at the time. Terry Oh - gotcha... DOH! That sounds much simpler than what I was thinking.
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Post by Armageddous on Nov 27, 2010 0:36:37 GMT -5
Progress update. The crank got a 10/10 grind, everything else has been cleaned up nice and shiny. The engine is basically a long block right now awaiting oil pump modifications to prevent another engine explosion, please not the 1st gen valve cover and empty front cover are just there because I have nowhere else to put them. I will keep updating as I put the rest of the engine together, then into my car! Oh and I will take some pictures that aren't from my phone. Terry
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 2, 2010 21:25:05 GMT -5
I spent yesterday at the machine shop trying to reinforce my oil pump for the new motor. The idea I came up with is a modified version of one stacks did a while back, it involves the same principles. Stop the rocking of the inner oil pump rotor and save the damage to the crankcase cover. While he made a new oil pump shaft, made another oil pump cover with a bushing and bored the original .45" hole to .5", I took a less invasive route to make oil pump replacement a little easier. (For me) We all know what the original oil pump looks like so I'll throw up the pics and you will all know what I have done. All parts you see are brand new. Terry
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 3, 2010 23:35:51 GMT -5
A video of the assembled oil pump in action. Huge amounts of pressure and flow. Terry
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 8, 2010 16:15:03 GMT -5
Back to the machine shop to finish up my engine. I had one last idea, and in the name of redundancy I fabricated a small aluminum plug to be entered into the post oil pump oil journal where it meets the front cover. I figured for the amount of effort involved it's one less thing to worry about. Here is the plug. And here's where it goes. Normally this journal is simply an open hole and relies on an o-ring in the crankcase cover to seal. The o-ring is still utilized, the plug has a sealer on it and it bottoms out on the front cover so it can't move in or out. It also acts as a third dowel! What do you guys think? Terry
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2010 1:29:10 GMT -5
Looks good. Optical illusion, when I first looked at the picture of the part in the machine shop, the little cabinet it is sitting on looked like a full size table which porportionally made the part look huge. Once I saw it in the block I figured it out. It looks stock when it's installed. So what is that hole for? Why the o-ring in addition to the gasket? It has been a while since I rebuilt my engine I can't remember what the deal was with that.
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 9, 2010 11:28:02 GMT -5
The hole is created from when the block is manufactured. It is drilled right through to the bell housing side but is plugged there. Off of that rail is where the oil pressure is distributed through the motor. I guess instead of plugging the block they decided it is way cheaper/easier to make the front cover block the oil coming out. I left the o-ring in there just in case that plug decided to leak there would be a backup.
Terry
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Post by hollandjusty on Dec 9, 2010 19:35:38 GMT -5
One of my favorite threads at the moment, keep up the good work!
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 22, 2010 20:12:22 GMT -5
A written update with no pictures. The engine is installed in the car, basically all hooked up. The engine is completely assembled except for the valve cover, which I left off so I could check for oil in the top end. Oil is in, pickup tube is lengthened and there is massive amounts of oil getting to the top end. The engine would have flashed up today but.. I.. mumble..mumble..forgot..my..sparkplugs..at..work..mumble..mumble..So I guess it will be next week before she roars (yelps?). The wiring is bugging me! So messy.. I will have to beautify it once I know the engine is solid. Probably a waste of time if this thing grenades before it's first oil change. I did run into an issue that I need help with. I tried to install my oil pressure gauge and the 1/8" NPT fitting would not thread into the block and upon comparing it to the old switch thread I could tell the 1/8" NPT was too large. However, when I measure TPI it comes up as NPT and I can't seem to find the "right" fitting anywhere. What have you guys done? Definitely excited at this point and I'm going to try and get a video camera for when I start it for the first time. Do or die, you may see. Terry
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Dec 23, 2010 13:58:06 GMT -5
Great work, Terry! Hoping it all works out!
Danimal
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 30, 2010 21:05:13 GMT -5
Alright. The engine is running! I drove around to break in the new rings. I had a couple issues with oil squirting out of the valve cover, but that is all resolved now. I am running 20-25 psi oil pressure at 1000rpm (idle) and 40-45psi warm while driving with 10w30 oil. Cold I have 40 psi at idle! Maybe all my oil pressure redundancy paid off? The fitting is 1/8" BSPT (british standard pipe thread) so you will typically need a 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adapter for the oil pressure gauge. Now I have real questions that I need answered. Does anybody know the spec for fuel pressure in an efi? Mine is running about 40psi at the regulator and I am getting a lot of black smoke while driving. So far so good! Pics soon.
Terry
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Post by Justy4x4 on Dec 30, 2010 21:18:05 GMT -5
Fuel pressure should be 31 - 34psi. Make sure the fuel return line isn't restricted or the pressure will go up.
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Post by Armageddous on Dec 31, 2010 21:42:30 GMT -5
Which line is the inlet? I would think the larger line is inlet however mine only runs with pressure on the smaller side. Is this weird? Where do you get your specs from? Thanks. Terry
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Post by Justy4x4 on Jan 1, 2011 9:46:45 GMT -5
The return line is the line that comes directly off of the regulator. The one that hooks to the fuel rail is the pressure line. The factory service manual says 31 - 34psi but in the next paragraph it says 41.3 psi, go figure?!?! Either way I don't see this as being your problem provided the lines are hooked up correctly. I don't think it'll even start if they're hooked up backwards. Check to see if there's any fuel in the vacuum hose coming off of the regulator. I'd also check for a bad coolant temp sensor and related wiring.
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 1, 2011 16:06:30 GMT -5
I will check into this. I have been wondering about my wiring anyways, I will have to check to make sure the correct values are reaching the ecu at the connectors. I know the connector on the air temperature sensor is loose and sometimes messes with the mixture. My fuel pressure still seems too high to me and I think my injectors may be leaking down right before it starts in the morning causing some spark plug fouling. Also does anybody know if the spark plug gap is different on the efi motors? My O2 sensor I believe is lazy until it's up to temperature. My car will not idle below 1000rpm warm and I cannot set my base timing because of this, there are some major kinks to work out in my system. However the swap is still well worth it. Jump in, turn the key, start driving. Pics of my car soon. Terry
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Post by Armageddous on Jan 5, 2011 19:45:00 GMT -5
I checked my O2 sensor and it had flatlined at 0v. I replaced it and it is now switching semi properly but still favoring the rich side of the spectrum. My CTS is in specification and wiring is all good, the fuel pressure is still making me think it is the issue. I am thinking of running my fuel pump at a decreased voltage to achieve the 35-ish psi I need instead of 40 and up. If all this fails I'm going to get technical and graph the injector pulse time to figure out if the computer is commanding the richness or if it's another issue. Can somebody give me the short and sweet of pullin' codes? Terry
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Post by xtremzj on Jan 5, 2011 23:10:06 GMT -5
weird. I have my o2 unplugged altogether and the light hasnt come on yet for this.
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