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Post by chpsk8 on Jun 26, 2009 16:06:17 GMT -5
Hey, I'm new here. Bought a Justy last week and would like to get it reliable to drive to work. I need some help. It stalls when I stop. I want to check the PCV valve but I'm not sure where it is. I think it is either part of or attached to the valve cover and the intake pipe. Am I missing something? Do I have to pull the valve cover to remove it? Any other suggestions are welcome and yes I have read many of the related posts. Thanks for your help. Looking forward to a fun little ride with SUPER gas mileage.
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Post by jintei on Jun 27, 2009 16:58:31 GMT -5
Greetings fellow-justy-enthusiast, we need to know what year is your car and if it is fuel inyected or carbed in order to help you. please add info of the problem.
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Post by chpsk8 on Jun 28, 2009 16:45:43 GMT -5
Oops. I wasn't thinking. It is a 1994 with fuel injection. Thanks.
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Post by DrewNukesEm on Jun 30, 2009 0:08:26 GMT -5
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Post by chpsk8 on Jul 18, 2009 20:21:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the suggestions. I figured it out. The white and green distributer wires were broken. Runs like a top now. Have put over 1000 miles on it so far and am very happy with the car. Still needs lots of work but mostly minor stuff. Leaks oil badly. Needs a quart about every 400 miles and occasionally at idle the oil light will flicker even when oil is full. May be going out. Things I will need include a new antenna, tranny mount, dogbone, all shifter bushings and a passenger rear seat belt setup (black). Anyone with spares on the super cheap let me know. Thanks for your help.
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Post by RedRooJusty on Aug 5, 2009 20:55:36 GMT -5
I have 2 weeks of owning my 90 justy, I found the same two wires (white and green) broken on the distributor. I found that the green wire is TDC sense (ecu code 13). I patched the wires, re-timed the ignition and my rough warm-idle is fixed and the check engine light turned off.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2009 10:25:31 GMT -5
Mine was doing nearly the same thing, my wires were broken on the back of the connector - firewall side. Fixed the wires and the car runs better than ever. Thanks for the tips!!
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Post by gigantafoot on Aug 6, 2010 14:14:09 GMT -5
I have a '94 with the same problem. I think this fixed it. Thanks
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Post by jfbrodeur on Mar 18, 2011 18:24:53 GMT -5
My engine stalls too ... When I connect the green connectors to go in test mode, the car runs flawlessly !
What does the test mode do? Should I check for broken wires on the distributor?
Thanks
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Post by jfbrodeur on Mar 20, 2011 8:47:15 GMT -5
I decided to go for it and I did find the green wire had been respliced before. It was broken right next to the connector and the white wire is about to go.
The check engine light is off now but the car still as some problems when idling.
Does that mean I have to do the timing?
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Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 20, 2011 14:56:24 GMT -5
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Post by jfbrodeur on Mar 21, 2011 20:53:26 GMT -5
Thanks a lot RedRooJusty. This is a great forum. I couldn't do anything to the car without it. The online manuals aren't as detailed as some of the threads here. Also I just changed the PCV valve and I almost think that it made the problem worse! For 3$ it was worth the shot. Anyway I will get what I need to time the engine and give it a go in a week or so. And then what I really don't understand is was does the test mode do? what does it bypass or ignore? Can I drive the car in test mode? Thanks again.
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Post by jfbrodeur on Mar 23, 2011 0:34:51 GMT -5
Oh well I couldn't wait a week if all there was to do was to adjust the timing ! I'm so glad I did it. The car runs really well now. I followed the recommendations on the sticker but in the end I ended up going 'by feel' for the final adjustment. Couldn't be happier!
Still want to understand that 'test mode' if someone can help with that.
Cheers
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Post by justyjuggler on Mar 23, 2011 9:49:13 GMT -5
Still want to understand that 'test mode' if someone can help with that. During normal operation, your computer is jumping the spark advance based on computer inputs(temp, o2, ...). To ensure you, the tester/setter, and the comuter are in agreement, the test mode eliminates these variation and allows a baseling setting of 5 BTDC or whatever.
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Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 23, 2011 10:23:39 GMT -5
During normal operation, your computer is jumping the spark advance based on computer inputs(temp, o2, ...). To ensure you, the tester/setter, and the comuter are in agreement, the test mode eliminates these variation and allows a baseling setting of 5 BTDC or whatever. Great description of the test mode. -RRJ
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Post by justyjuggler on Mar 24, 2011 8:53:26 GMT -5
Thanks RRJ. Moreover, setting the timing is required to calibrate the crank's position to the cam's. Does the relationship between the two shafts change with engine speed, ambient temp and timing belt age? Of course; yet another compromise in the name of simplicity and another reason to check your timing occasionally...
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Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 24, 2011 11:29:53 GMT -5
Does the relationship between the two shafts change with engine speed, ambient temp and timing belt age? I find that to be an odd question No offense intended. I might be reading it wrong. No, the two shafts are bound by the timing belt to operate synchronously. -RRJ
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Post by justyjuggler on Mar 25, 2011 7:20:20 GMT -5
I find that to be an odd question Odd for a daily driver, but not for a racer. Timing belts stretch at high rpm and result in retarding the ignition timing(when it really needs advance). Just trying to illustrate why the test/setting is needed in the first place(the engine has position sensors, after all) and show what limitations cam driven position sensors have. Find more on the subject, www.circletrack.com/howto/1842_ignition_timing_maximum_performance/index.htmlShould we be timing our triple lungs at 5500rpm? Should we be shaving the distributor's 'posts' one way or another?? Probably not worth the effort to do it as it is to understand it...
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Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 25, 2011 11:27:15 GMT -5
Great article thank you for further explanation. Odd for a Justy engine. The Justy distributor is not susceptible to gear lash at all, it is not gear-driven from the cam, rather runs directly in-line and co-centric to the cam shaft angle. The timing belt will stretch a very little bit over time, some of the tooth material will wear away as well. This is normal, you inadvertently correct for this when doing tune-ups at normal intervals. Compliance (or the apparent "stretch") of the timing belt teeth when revving and when under load, can't really be avoided. I know exactly what they are talking about in the article, tuning for top advance is essential for power and efficiency at higher rpms. I have to do this to my Corvair. Where I set idle timing, then spool it up (4~5k prms) to assure max centrifugal advance is achieved (70mph is about 4500rpms to the vair). Otherwise power to pass at freeway speeds is lousy. Interesting oversight to my service manual, to not include max-advance check as part of the normal timing procedure. -RRJ
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Post by trevoroni on Jun 15, 2015 10:47:43 GMT -5
I had the same problems as the OP on a '91 EFI 4x4. After performing all the regular maintenance steps; new fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, injector cleaner, and cleaning all electrical grounds and inspecting wires/connections I was still having the same issue.
When finally replacing the distributor cap and rotor I noticed that one of the wires inside the distributor housing had worn through it's insulation and was shorting out on the housing. A little electrical tape over the break and it is now idling as it should and doesn't stall when stopping sometimes any more.
Now to sort out the issue of the starter not engaging when tuning the key some times and it'll be good as new (besides the rust)!
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