coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jan 28, 2007 20:44:11 GMT -5
I drilled afew of the screws out, the other ones I hit with oil and a propane torch and they came out with little or no problems, I hope this helps with people that are only using electric drill or hand tools.
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Post by Scoobaru on Jan 29, 2007 11:09:10 GMT -5
Oh man, not enough hours in the day! I will try to send dunc pics to post, just need a few minutes to compress and sort them.
Got around to starting to get the carb put back in over the weekend. It is mounted and the manual choke cable is in place. Waiting on another cable from Ebay to finish up the hand throttle/idle up portion. Routing of cable was pretty easy, there was a rubber plug on the firewall just behind the carb (just above the heater hose lines) that I was able to route the cable through. I am guessing it is probably there for AC control or something like that, but it was in a perfect spot for the cable. I will include pics of this too (Yah, i know, i will try for sooner rather than later).
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Post by Scoobaru on Feb 15, 2007 12:06:58 GMT -5
Well had to rush the justy back into service. After I had to take it off the road, I bought a 98 Legacy wagon. The wagon started having issues last weekend, missing for some reason. So got the Justy back to a driving state last night, drove it to work today. Running much better than before, idle is still not the smoothest, but at least it isn't stalling anymore. Idle is good enough that I could actually adjust the timing, could never get it to idle at 800rpm before. I am still not sure about setting the idle mixture, got to play with that a bit.
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SubieGuy
The guy who put a boxer in a Justy. :)
Posts: 191
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Post by SubieGuy on Feb 26, 2007 5:42:32 GMT -5
It seems to me that your carbs have too many emissions controls to fiddle with. My hitachi carb was real easy to work on, and no cables/sensors whatsoever, manual choke included...
Anyway, for boost purposes, I modified the hell out of it (drilled out the jets, changed the emulsion tubes) , but did not do good enough for me, so I dumped it at the end. Now I have an unfiddled spare Hitachi at home, in case I need to change back to stock... You can fit any carb as long as you can fit a base flange to the manifold. Altering the manifold is a bit tricky as it involves all those water channels and the cooling thermostat as well...
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Post by Scoobaru on Mar 5, 2007 11:03:46 GMT -5
So another update, I have gradually been working the bugs out. As I said before, car was running better than before the rebuild, but the idle was still not real smooth, although it wouldn't stall. Also, another thing I hadn't mentioned, the CEL (check engine light) was on constantly, a bit of a concern. So I was tinkering around this weekend, and when playing with the air cleaner, I noticed that when I put my hand over the opening where the heat riser duct would normally connect (no duct at this point, old one was toast) I noticed the idle smoothed out considerably. So logically thinking (scary) I figured that since I was reducing the air flow, with fuel staying steady, this indicated that it was running too rich. So I began tweaking the idle mixture adjustment out, while alternately covering and uncovering the air intake (note that the engine wasn't warm enough for the valve the changes air flow from the heat riser duct input to the regular input to close yet). Sure enough, as I turned the mixture screw out (leaning the mix), the idle improved, and the difference between "covered and uncovered" became less, to the point where it was basically the same either way. End result, idle is much smoother, acceleration at lower RPM is better, and the CEL is off!!!
Other lessons learned, when I set up the mounting bracket for the manual choke cable, I originally attached it the firewall. Mistake, as when the engine revved up, it would rock slightly, and thus cause the choke to move. I kept having to push the choke knob back in while driving. Moved the mounting bracket to the manifold, problem solved. I also had an issue with the initial float setting, had it too high, thus causing the fuel supply not to be cut off and causing an overflow condition.
That's it for the carb, now I just have to deal with the oil leaks, and get my suspension tuned up a bit....
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Post by ccphil55 on Apr 17, 2007 22:26:11 GMT -5
So how many turns from bottomed out is the idle mixture scew appearing to be happy? Also I'm having troubles figuring out where i'm supposed to measure for the float drop down measurement, and i think i may be off on the shutoff height as well since my car barely runs right now. Could also be the timing belt, I'm gonna adress this on Saturday.
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Post by Scoobaru on Apr 18, 2007 10:08:05 GMT -5
I will have to check on the # turns. Try the method I described above, covering the air intake and see how it effects your idle. If you are having trouble getting it to idle, turn the idle speed up enough so it will at least keep running. For the float drop down measurement, not sure which one you are referring to? If it is the 46mm measurement you mentioned in your other post, this is the "wide open" setting, measured from face of gasket surface of the top section of the carb to the bottom of the float. Not sure if you replaced the float with your rebuild kit, but with my kit, all the settings were pretty much good out of the box.
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Post by ccphil55 on Apr 18, 2007 10:10:19 GMT -5
ok thanks, somehow I didn't get that outa the instructions, and no my kit didn't come with new float, just new needle and seat.
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Post by briangclarke on Apr 6, 2012 21:56:18 GMT -5
Scoobaru do you have those pictures of where all the vacuum lines go up here somewhere? I just bought an '88 justy and i cant get it to smog in california. I got it in oregon and the previous owner messed up all the vacuum lines, and i can't find any good pictures or diagrams explaining how it is SUPPOSED to be. can someone help?
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Post by nipper on Apr 8, 2012 0:53:07 GMT -5
Scoobaru do you have those pictures of where all the vacuum lines go up here somewhere? I just bought an '88 justy and i cant get it to smog in california. I got it in oregon and the previous owner messed up all the vacuum lines, and i can't find any good pictures or diagrams explaining how it is SUPPOSED to be. can someone help? www.dustysjustys.com/IPL/JFIG092-2.jpg from Dustys Justys
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Post by hippy on Mar 19, 2013 17:38:38 GMT -5
this is probbaly dead but who cares (i doo) whats with the coolant thing under the carb and i have a weber 3236 dgv and was wondering if anybody can help me with some screw questions like which ones go in to the manifold the black ones with an allen head or the silver ones with the philips head
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