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Post by Scoobaru on Nov 8, 2006 15:19:06 GMT -5
I know that a few people have had issues with the stock carb (probably everybody with a carb model). So I thought a thread to cover off any input anybody might have on carb issues and how to fix them would be beneficial.
So to start, dealing with the stock carb, I am wondering if there is a way to simplify the carb, perhaps replacing the auto choke with a manual choke? And all those vacuum lines, how many are strictly for emissions related purposes? Anybody who has swapped to a different carb, how were all the vacuum lines dealt with?
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Post by justycr on Nov 9, 2006 9:38:08 GMT -5
Hi,
Here in Costa Rica, I had a lot of troubles with the original caruburator, because of the dust and the weather.
So, my Mechanic has a Justy 88 too, and he swap the orginal carburator to a Toyota Corolla 1500cc, carburator (FX).
About 2 years he made the same work for me, and since I made the swap, I stop to have troubles with the carburator.
This carburator its very simple to fix, and I take off all the vaccum lines so the Engine looks very simple an clear now, like a Toyota Starlet engine.
Also the carbs give me more power, because it came from a 1500cc engine ;D, I expend a little more of gas, but it worth it,
I m very happy with the swap...
NOTA: to make the swap I have to do a "Flanger", to fit in the old carburator place. Again sorry for my terrible "INGLES"
COSTA RICA PURA VIDA!!!!
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Post by Scoobaru on Nov 13, 2006 11:10:21 GMT -5
Well, I have my Justy carb all in pieces on my workbench now. A lot of pieces, but disassembly wasn't too bad. A couple of the jets/bleeder valves were kind of tight to get out is all. In looking at it, I think I am going to try removing the autochoke assembly and replacing with a manual unit as I had thought. Perhaps the idle up assembly as well. The only this I'm not sure about that is if it has anything to do with the high idle setting when cold. Or is this just a function of the choke?
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Dec 2, 2006 14:16:25 GMT -5
I have my carb pulled about half way apart as well, I have about three of those aluminum button head screws giving me a real tough time. They dont want to come out and the material keeps coming off the screw the more I work on it. I have sprayed it down with lube to try and loosen it a little but nothing seems to be working. I would really like to get fuel injection on this thing. Sorry to wander and go off topic.
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Post by Scoobaru on Dec 4, 2006 10:55:45 GMT -5
I had one that I had to use an impact screwdriver on, one of those units that you whack with a hammer to break the screw loose. Usually a last resort, but fairly effective when nothing else works.
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Dec 7, 2006 23:15:18 GMT -5
When in doubt...drill it out!
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Dec 8, 2006 11:45:41 GMT -5
Drilling sounds scarry. Maybe if I cant get it by hand thats what I will do.
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Post by Scoobaru on Dec 9, 2006 13:44:18 GMT -5
It is important to use a good fitting screwdriver every time, I found that being a bit impatient and trying to make do with one that fits fairly well instead of snugly is a bad idea. And once you slip, it's going to be an uphill battle to get some of the screws and jets out. Some of these are recessed in holes, and the ideal screwdriver to use would be one that is of equal diameter all the way down. Unfortunately most of my screwdrivers angle narrower as you get closer to the tip, which means in order to fit into the recessed holes, you have to use a smaller size one which results in less contact/gripping surface at the tip. Maybe time for a trip to the tool store.....
There is also two jets in the duty solenoid inside the carb that I was unable to remove for cleaning. Fortunately they look pretty clean, so I should be able to get by.
Hopefully starting reassembly this afternoon, before I forget how it all goes together....
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Post by malamute on Dec 9, 2006 20:01:15 GMT -5
It is important to use a good fitting screwdriver every time, I found that being a bit impatient and trying to make do with one that fits fairly well instead of snugly is a bad idea. And once you slip, it's going to be an uphill battle to get some of the screws and jets out. Some of these are recessed in holes, and the ideal screwdriver to use would be one that is of equal diameter all the way down. Maybe time for a trip to the tool store..... The screwdrivers you seek are called cabinet screwdrivers. Most of the ones that I see are rather long and not real useful on carbs that are still in the engine compartment. And it is always time for a trip to the tool store! Matthew
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Post by Scoobaru on Jan 5, 2007 10:40:53 GMT -5
An update, the carb is mainly reassembled. I am going forward with my plan of removing the automatic choke and idle up crap. My current plan is to replace with two manual choke cables, one for operating the choke, and the other to use as a manual hand throttle. The latter would be mainly for engine warmup, maybe for a cheap cruise control on the highway. I think this going to simplify the carb a fair bit, you should see the bucket of parts that I am removing (including three dashpots and several vacuum lines!!). The installation of the manual cables looks to be dead simple, toughest part will be routing through the firewall. The bracket previously used for mounting the idle-up dashpot is perfect for mounting of the hand throttle cable, and the manual choke cable will simply attach to the choke shaft that previously went into the autochoke unit. Stay tuned....
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89
got Mud? Ice? Snow?
Posts: 398
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Post by 89 on Jan 5, 2007 17:34:45 GMT -5
'Scoobaru', Thanks for the info- Definitely keep us posted... Change is good... For example the turbo JUSTY guys are running various MG Metro carb bits including SUs! Who woulda thought. Keeping an eye on this post as I have some Weber goodies kicking about... Best Luck/Skill, #891989 Subaru JUSTY RS 4WD 125, 099 miles
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Post by bob393 on Jan 8, 2007 21:10:31 GMT -5
A thought from the gun smith industry, I have had good luck with putting a screw driver in a drill press for extra down presure and turn with a wrench, Works for me.
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Post by BackW00d on Jan 10, 2007 19:56:11 GMT -5
well...my Carburetor just sux. sometimes, when it is moody, the idle RPM rises to about 2kRPM. sometimes when I start the engine, it won`t run unless im keeping the gas pedal to the 1/2.... and when you less expect it, its suddenly all normal again, and it runs very nice, starts nice, idles nice at around 900-1000 RPM I belive that my choke is giving the carb some problems, cause in summer its all fine tell me, is it hard do disassemble/reassemle the carburetor ? im mainly afraid of all that rubber pipes, that are there
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Post by Scoobaru on Jan 11, 2007 11:56:28 GMT -5
Lots of vacuum lines, that's for sure, but not too bad if you are very methodical taking it apart. What I did is used a digital camera to detail everything as I take it apart, then use that for reassembly reference. There are a LOT of pieces in the carb, but as long as you kind of lay things out in order as they come apart, it's not that bad. Not sure how hard it is to find a rebuild kit, I happened to pick one up cheap on Ebay. As mentioned, probably the toughest part is getting some of the screws/jets/bleeders out, need to be patient and USE THE RIGHT TOOL. I still have all the pics I took, might be able to get those to somebody for reference if they want.
One thing that I am wondering about is the O2 sensor. There is a duty solenoid valve in the carb that works in a feedback loop with the O2 sensor, I am thinking I might replace the O2 sensor as part of this just in case it is causing issues. Anybody seen issues before with this sensor? What sort of issues did it cause?
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Dunk
EF12 Turbo 12psi
Posts: 576
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Post by Dunk on Jan 11, 2007 12:09:38 GMT -5
Scoobaru, if you would like to email the pics to me i can post them up if you like?
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Post by BackW00d on Jan 11, 2007 19:18:01 GMT -5
that would be great
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Post by Scoobaru on Jan 12, 2007 10:46:41 GMT -5
There are a lot of them, I will try to compress them and cut down on the quantity.
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Jan 19, 2007 14:59:46 GMT -5
Yeah I would like to see those pix too, so send 'em to Dunk. Getting back to tough-to-remove-screws topic for a second: I have run into this problem in many places on the Justy not just with the carb. Seems like a lot of the bodywork (especially rear bumper!) have phillips head screws with crazy torque or rust making them tough to remove without stripping them. I have found a solution that works almost every time. Step 1: penetrating oil. I use one called Deep-Creep Step 2: I use a driver-bit in conjunction with my impact wrench.
I went to my local fastener supply store and bought this special socket that's 3/8" square drive to be used on a ratchet (or impact gun) and then the business end of it is a 1/4"(6.5mm) hex in which you can put drive bits like a #2 phillips for example. This method hasn't failed me yet.
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44mag
'86 2WD 1.0
Posts: 29
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Post by 44mag on Jan 27, 2007 16:08:41 GMT -5
I have an '86 2WD Justy with an EF10 engine originally bought in Austria. The 20y old stock Hitachi carb is worn out beyond repair. It makes ruffly 20 MPG!!! It behaves much like what BackW00d described. I've bought for not a lot of money a Keihin in perfect condition that appears to have come from some old Civic 1.3or1.5 engine. It's much simpler than the Hitachi and gives good promises. But...
When the Hitachi came off it revealed a plate with holes much smaller than the carb's and the following inscription : 27/18ô 37KW. There is also a hole in the manifold with some sensor in it and an opening towards the carb but no connection between them.It appears to be connected to the cooling system.
Does anybody know what are those for?
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Post by BackW00d on Jan 27, 2007 18:36:50 GMT -5
Man....not a sign of pictures I`m eager to take that bloody Carb apart
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