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Post by jetpuff on Nov 13, 2007 16:43:24 GMT -5
how do i replace the clutch on this little guy? i mean im not nessicarily looking for a step by step, just point of interest, and pit falls to avoid. its an 89 awd i believe it has a carb on the engine. says 3valve on it. kinda clueless as manuals for these are not a dime a dozen. ;D
thanks!
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Nov 13, 2007 21:33:42 GMT -5
I really dont want to sound like a jerk, but I know I will. If you dont even know if you have a carb or it is fuel injected, I dont recomend attempting this job at home. But to start you would need to seperate the engine from the tranny, it is pretty straight forward from there. Also get the flywheel resurfaced, just a good idea or the clutch might have a strange feel, and the life will be a little shorter.
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Post by SeattleJusty on Nov 13, 2007 23:50:14 GMT -5
I agree with Coal this time. No offense but if you don't know the shiny side from the greasy side, then you don't have the tools let alone the know how. If you start this task, you'll probably run into a snag, wind up having a mobile mechanic come out & scare you with his estimate or else tow it to a shop for an equally scary quote, at which point you will sell the car or donate it and then I'll wind up pulling parts from it at my local junkyard.
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Post by jetpuff on Nov 14, 2007 13:36:31 GMT -5
lol i appreciate your concern, but i was less concerned with specifics, and more concerned with anyhting i might screw up thats particular to the justy like "well on a normal car it would be pretty stright foward, but on a justy..." or maybe " you would do it like this on a normal car but never NEVER do it on a justy or..." stuff like that. i have owned some bizzare cars that require special care and attention to things that you might not consider on a civic or a corrola or something. a chrysler conquest for instance, putting an alarm in one of those things is a huge pain because of the complicated wiring harness, so it may be better to aviod doing that one your self unless you dont mind pulling your hair out. or when i put a stereo in my 90 olds toronado trofeo, long body. it had a touch screen in-dash computer and a remotely mounted cd player, but the cd player went toes up and since there were no resources on that car, to speak of, and not even the stereo shops had the harness for it, i had to wire it by hand, speakers and all, while still maintaining the computers functionality as it controlled not only the stereo but also the ac, and the trip computer just to name a few. odd cars had odd quirks in many instances, and the justy, at least by subaru standards is an odd car, having an inline 3 and all, not to mention on demand 4wd in a car that size, its a bit strange by most standards, and i just wanted to be sure that the "piston return springs" ddnt need to be tight or the "headlight fluid" ddnt need to be drained, or that i ddnt need to pack the "muffler bearings". lol
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Post by jetpuff on Nov 15, 2007 13:57:04 GMT -5
thanks! that is some helpful advice particularly - "You need the right punch(1/8-3/16" not tapered) to get the front driveshaft pins out." i just did the axle on my legacy, and that little roll pin is a pain if you dont have just the right punch "-Front driveshafts must be re-installed dead on, not 180 deg off. " i have a question about the this. why?? im not meaning to sound like im gettin critical of your advice, im not, i just honestly dont know why they need to be dead on and not 180 off. are they splined differently? when i did my legacy i ddn't notice the orientation, on install or removal, i just slipped em in and popped the pin in. makes me wonder if i did something wrong lol. but anywho thanks for the tips, any reccomendation on what brand of fluid i should put back into the awd tranny? ;D
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Post by formulaphoto on Nov 16, 2007 3:10:02 GMT -5
I didn't pay any particular attention to whether my front driveshafts went back on the same way...either I got lucky, or it doesn't matter. I've been running them for a couple weeks now with no problems. What does installing them 180 off do? Thanks!
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Post by formulaphoto on Nov 16, 2007 13:44:41 GMT -5
Curiously, there are 23 splines; an odd number don't you think? stacks Is it? (I'm a car repair noob for the most part, even after doing my engine rebuild hehe). Am I risking any damage by not having the splines in the right orientation?
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Post by jetpuff on Nov 16, 2007 14:16:21 GMT -5
were all hanging in suspense....
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Post by SUBIEJIM on Nov 16, 2007 15:38:38 GMT -5
were all hanging in suspense.... Ok!... I'll tell ya even though I didn't open up this can of worms If you install the axles 180 degrees out of phase you will either have a very hard time driving the pin through the outer CV joint and stub shaft coming out of the trans axle or you will not be able to drive the pin in at all. I have run into this a couple of times but, usually I locate the stub shaft so that as I slide the inboard CV joint on I can look up from the bottom and make sure the hole is lined up perfectly Then just drive the pin in... BUT... Remember to drive the pin in from the proper side... I know... Your thinking "What the hell is he talking about" If you look at the inner CV joint where the pin goes through you will see that on one side the hole is chamfered and on the other side is not. Position the pin in the chamfered side and drive it through to the non chamfered side. When you need to remove the pin for an axle shaft change locate the chamfered side of the hole on the inner CV and drive the pin straight through the non chamfered side untill the pin is free from the stub shaft, then you can remove the axle shaft. If you don't follow this procedure you will be banging on that pin forever with your BFH and the pin will hardly move! The same holds true on Many Subarus not just Justys. I know it sounds crazy but, this is just one of the weird things I have discovered during my Justy adventures Hope this helps, Jim
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Post by jetpuff on Nov 16, 2007 16:10:02 GMT -5
ahh i guess we were just fortunate in our axle swaps.
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Post by formulaphoto on Nov 16, 2007 18:47:44 GMT -5
Haha...I guess that's why I didn't run into any problems...I haven't replaced the pins yet Can't find any rollpins locally and the shaft can't come off the splines with the suspension all hooked up, so it's been fine so far.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Nov 19, 2007 1:20:13 GMT -5
rock auto has a few clutches left and they are on sale just under 70 bucks. I just got one ordered.
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Post by ripcuda on Dec 9, 2007 1:22:24 GMT -5
I can speak to installing the axles 180^ off personally.
I installed a pair of new/rebuilt front axles a few months back... and had read others comments here about it... but didn't quite see what they meant... until I did it. (Btw, my axles came with new roll pins)
I believe stacks is right-on what he said about there being 23 splines... an odd number. Here's the deal. Put the axle in correctly... and the roll pin holes line up perfectly. Put the axle in 180^ off... and the roll pin holes line up close... but not perfectly. They're so close that a slightly undersized punch will slide right in giving you the false impression that all is properly lined-up... it isn't! You'll get the pin in about 70% of the way and it will jam... big time! Good luck getting it back out. It was a serious PITA.
Finally got the pin out... spun the axle around 180^... pin went in as it should without any major hassle. Believe it.
Another lesson I learned to look out for when removing the roll pins. This is on the driver's side axle... on my 4wd/5spd tranny. The area directly above the axle... as you work from under the car, driving the roll pin up and out... there is a ribbing/overhang part of the tranny that will block the roll pin from coming all the way out. You'll get it like 70% out and think your in the home stretch... and not realize that the roll pin is now hitting the tranny and won't go any further. So you keep tapping it... and jam it in the axle... big time! Another PITA. Jammed so bad I had to dremel the part of the pin sticking out off... then drive it back through the opposite way... till it finally came out.
So be careful and aware that the driver's side axle has a small angle with which to be properly positioned to give you a clear shot to drive the roll pin out the top.
Those were my big lessons learned on front axles. Hope this helps.
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