Tuolumne Kid
Never underestimate the power of the N00B
Posts: 45
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Post by Tuolumne Kid on Mar 29, 2017 19:30:10 GMT -5
Well Clutch is slipping so got clutch kit and center carrier bearing is going bad so yeah why not replace that also. It is only money right I have been reading on here and sound like pulling the engine is maybe the way to go. But wanted to ask all of you guys since I have never done that and I am sure you all could do the job in like 4hours. I will be getting help from one of my friends who is great mechanic but has never worked on a Justy before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated? Is there anything else I should replace since I will be so far into it? Have placed CV joints already. Here are some pictures of my NEW drive shaft had one made (http://www.dlssac.com/) so now I can replace carrier bearing and u joins with out having to replace the whole driveshaft. Any help I thank you all in advance. goo.gl/photos/amUzHwBnU3X7Db988
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Tuolumne Kid
Never underestimate the power of the N00B
Posts: 45
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Post by Tuolumne Kid on Apr 5, 2017 10:17:47 GMT -5
Any help for the Noob
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Post by madmatt on Apr 5, 2017 16:34:29 GMT -5
Pull as a unit...
Do a search here on pulling the engine, you should find lots of good info.
Pull the rad and the upper rad/hood support. Makes it way easy to get the motor out.
Remove the lower engine support that runs from front to back. Easy to get motor back in... and then slide it into place, rather then trying to get mount studs to line up to it.
Splitting them apart is easy... a clutch alignment tool (normally comes with a clutch) makes it easy to get it back together...
edited for thumbs...
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Tuolumne Kid
Never underestimate the power of the N00B
Posts: 45
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Post by Tuolumne Kid on Apr 8, 2017 16:16:10 GMT -5
Thanks Matt
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Post by madmatt on Apr 8, 2017 17:42:29 GMT -5
No worries. I have mentioned that rad support a few times. Perhaps I should clarify for the lurkers... I mean the sheet metal body piece that runs from each fender across the front. It's only 6 bolts. Two at each end and 2 at the vertical member where it meats the lower rad support. This gives you a huge extra bit of space. I pull the grill too... (mine is just zip tied in...) and the I only really need to lift the motor unit about 6 inches to clear the bumper
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