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Post by mattcm32 on Jan 4, 2017 14:08:24 GMT -5
I just got an 88 Justy GL (2wd) that needs a clutch. I just pulled the motor and trans per many suggestions on here that said its the easiest way to do it. I was just wondering what other things I should consider replacing while I've got it all out and everything is easy to get to. Here's my current list of things getting replaced:
Clutch, front camshaft seal (was leaking), oil pan gasket, timing belt, spark plugs, fuel filter, trans input shaft seal, exhaust gaskets
The car only has 96k original miles on it and is pretty solid, ran good before I took the motor out. I also read on here that these things tend to have issues with the oil pump so I was going to take it apart and check it out. Is there anything particular I should be on the lookout for? Just wanted to poll the audience in case there's something simple I can replace or fix while its all apart, don't want to take the motor out again for a while once its back in. I did take the oil pan off just to have a look up inside and everything appears to be fine, nothing significant in the oil pan.
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Post by kcswimrac on Jan 4, 2017 16:10:47 GMT -5
IF you have it out and it has that many miles, i'd do the oil pump while you're at it. I think you've got most things covered.
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Post by dez on Jan 4, 2017 22:58:06 GMT -5
Don't forget the rear main seal, you'll have to pull the flywheel off. check all engine mounts as well especially the one that is mounted to the crossmember that goes from front of the frame rearward.
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Post by mattcm32 on Jan 5, 2017 12:28:53 GMT -5
Thanks a lot for the advice! I just order a seal kit that includes the front and rear main seals. When you say "do the oil pump" what exactly do you mean by that? I ordered an oil pump seal but I haven't taken it apart yet to get familiar with it. From what I've read, it sounds like there's a shaft that needs grooves cut in it to improve lubrication inside the pump and that same shaft could also use a new bushing. Is that all that the oil pump needs to have done to it?
I think I just answered my own questions...I did some searching and it looks like I can get a new pump shaft, rotors, cover and all the seals and o-rings I need to freshen up the pump from Subaru for under $50.
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Post by kcswimrac on Jan 5, 2017 23:06:57 GMT -5
You could probably get by with just replacing the inner and outer pump, guarantee it would be better than what's in it with that many miles. I think the current solution has been to get a bronze bushing pressed in and bored to the correct size, Not sure that there is a consensus on it, but that was the route I went. But if you don't feel like doing that, a new pump would be much better than what it has. Links below. Inner Pump Part number#15009KA050 Outer Pump Part number#424185610
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Post by mattcm32 on Jan 6, 2017 14:38:14 GMT -5
Thanks! I'll take it apart this weekend to get a good look at it and determine if a bushing is warranted.
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Post by mattcm32 on Jan 12, 2017 15:15:58 GMT -5
So here's the shaft and cover. The shaft looks pretty chewed up so I'm going to be replacing the cover, shaft and outer rotor. Gonna hold off on the bushing for now and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge so I can keep a good eye on it.
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Post by kcswimrac on Jan 16, 2017 18:29:26 GMT -5
Doesn't want to show your photo for some reason. But saw them, via the link. That shaft does look a little chewed up sounds like your plan should be a good choice!
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Post by mattcm32 on Jan 19, 2017 11:13:56 GMT -5
So I'm on to the input shaft seal for the transmission. I've got the throw out bearing off, haven't figured out how to get the clutch fork off, but I don't see the seal in there or any way of getting to it. Is the seal for the input shaft inside the transmission? Also, I'm replacing the water pump seals and I noticed some sort of drain hole in the front cover next to the coolant drain bolt. It got me curious about how far the water pump oil seal needs to get pressed in. I wasn't sure if it should go all the way in and sit on the ledge at the bottom of the hole or if it should just sit flush with the top edge of the hole. I'm assuming it should not go all the way in so that if any oil or water leaks past their respective seals it can just drain out instead of mixing. Here's some photos to help describe what I'm talking about, I haven't pressed it all the way in yet. You will probably have to use the link from the picture since it doesn't like to show up here for some reason. Well I looked around some more and found photos of the seal being flush with the rim of that hole. Gonna go with it just like I have it and see what happens.
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