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Post by bugea002 on Jun 9, 2016 14:59:05 GMT -5
Hi to all
I did fix the radio and it was worth it, I did not use the original booth hat but I bought an old one for 10 euros and used it instead.
What I need to fix is the gear shift lever - it has alot of play (over 30cm to each side) and as well I need to replace the carburetor gaskets since once I arrive back home and settle in my garage the air smells of petrol due to probably the gaskets need replacing. However prior to doing the job I would prefer to have a service manual in hand - do you know from where can I buy one and which is the best version to have?
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Post by cvan on Jun 11, 2016 15:53:48 GMT -5
Yes, I will get some pictures and describe more stuff in detail. On the latest run, with the lower radiator vents blocked, got 42.6 MPG. So can assume the setup is getting 42.5 MPG reliably. I really don't think much else is going to help much w/o smaller tires and the alternator bypass, so will do these as the tires and battery wear out. Other options like forcing it to burn lean or higher thermostat rating could hurt the engine long term, will avoid those mods.
The dam is fairly easy to build with standard sheet metal tools, kind of a pain to install. Will go over instructions when get pictures.
Got all the tips from ecomodder.com, and just crossing off everything. I won't take credit for all the mods.
Also, I ONLY go the speed limit or LOWER (if no one is behind me), drive on 25-40 MPH speed limit areas when possible, stay in right lane and pi*s everyone off who's going 55+ in a 45. In AZ, word is you get tickets 11 mph over speed limit, so I always have people crawling up on the bumper and passing at the speed limit. You have to be able to take this mentally.
The next tank, the plan is to go reckless, to see how much it hurts the gas mileage. Stomp on it like everyone else (burning of the line, slamming brakes at the red lights, blasting music and blowing eCig clouds out the window, and still ending up next to the Justy a few miles down the road). So plan to go 5mph over all posted limits.
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Post by cvan on Jun 11, 2016 16:44:26 GMT -5
Nipper, What would you say the longest an ECVT can survive? Including all the maintenance (brushes, fluid changes, etc). I should probably get the brushes replaced. Currently have 107,000 mi on the car, driving 9k per year. I assume the belt was installed in the factory in the right direction, so the pulleys would not get torn up.
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Post by cvan on Jun 11, 2016 20:03:12 GMT -5
The forum has all it's upload space used up. I have 4 90kb pictures I am unable to upload. Will try another time.
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Post by gearheadeh on Jun 12, 2016 8:37:52 GMT -5
The forum has all it's upload space used up. I have 4 90kb pictures I am unable to upload. Will try another time. You will need to use a photo host like "Photobucket" look in Guides for an idea of how it works....
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Post by cvan on Jun 12, 2016 23:39:22 GMT -5
Hope this works... s53.photobucket.com/user/cvan707/library/Justy?sort=3&page=1The side view shows how mudflaps/wipers/easy externals are removed. The back view shows how all seats (w/ hardware, spare tire, are removed and replaced with an Outback rear carpet insert (dog chewed of course) supported by 1.5" styrofoam sheet underneath. Remove all the mounting hardware except the front passenger seat belt stuff in case you need to put the seat back in (3 min of work). The engine view shows how I try to keep this as stock as possible. I drilled about QTY 8 1/2" holes into the bottom of the intake air box, and QTY 3 1/2" holes along the top of the muffler right below the heat shield. This combined with a hacked up Outback K&N filter (just need to saw off a couple of inches from one side), leaves a good intake/exhaust balance at the reduced weight. The dam view shows the hardest area, the curves on the end. Here's how to build/install: - Buy a 10ft 2" x 6" roof trim, galvanized steel section from Lowe's/Home Depot ($16) - With nibbler, cut the section down to 1" x 4" across the entire length. Keep the 2" section as it's perfect to block the lower radiator vents. - With a edge folding tool, fold over 1/2" of material on the leading edge on the driver's side, in order to strengthen the sides of the dam. - Measure 6" of straight section, followed by 6" of section trimmed at 30 deg cuts every inch (you see the shark teeth in the picture. - Form the radius over a standard 1 gallon paint can, to avoid sharp folds. - With about 8 of those cheap plastic clamps, work around from drivers to passenger side. - Introduce another QTY 2 30 deg cuts between the radius and center of the bumper, to match the bumper curvature - Mirror all your cuts from the center of the bumper. - Clamp the entire section around the bumper, marking the exact end of the passenger side - Add another 1/2" of material to fold over to strengthen this edge. - You need to mount the sheet metal with 3/16 pop rivets along the sides, and you can use hardware (6-32, 8-32) around the front. The sides have very limited material to mount to. - Before you mount, drill the clearance size of holes directly on the sheet metal - Position the dam along the bumper with clamps, and with white spray paint mark the drilled holes from the air dam to the bumper. - Remove air dam and paint it black - Drill the holes into the bumper along center of white dots from the spray paint. - After air dam is dry, rivet both ends, making sure the dam matches the bumper "professionally" - Work from sides to center with the bolts - Leave the air gap or fill with black RTV.
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Post by cvan on Aug 14, 2016 14:38:28 GMT -5
Latest Update: - Replaced 165/55 R13 tires with 155/55 R13, spedometer and odometer need to be adjusted by 3% for smaller tires. 40 psi - RTV the gap on air dam - Filled the gap at the hood and top of bumper - Reblocked lower radiator vents, engine temp good even in 118 deg summer 44.0 MPG
s53.photobucket.com/user/cvan707/library/Justy
Looks like plugging up all the air gaps on frontal area is getting a good improvement, the smaller tires didn't do much. But it's easier on the ECVT off stoplights.
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Post by cvan on Mar 22, 2017 21:52:11 GMT -5
Another update soon....
Added a Kat's 850 W circulation block heater, 300w magnetic for oil pan, 200w for ECVT pan, Walker Muffler with custom back pressure mods, and now the gasoline appears to be turned back into summer blend...
Best two tanks in a row is 44 mpg, right before winter blend hit in 2016...
Gotta get 50 mpg in 2017... with 4WD what bragging rights!
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Post by ke7ofi on Mar 22, 2017 22:46:32 GMT -5
Wait, are you running those heaters with the engine on? I was going to buy an oil pan heater for cold weather, but is there another application?
Also, which holes do you currently have blocked off?
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Post by cvan on Mar 25, 2017 16:41:04 GMT -5
ke7ofi, I have the two Kat's magnetic oil heaters and a battery trickle charger on one line, and the Kat's 850 W heater on a separate line. The reason being is the oil heaters take longer to get to steady state temp than the Kat's so they had to be on two separate timers. In order not to waste money (because I'm frugal and cheap), I put thermocouples in after installing and checked for steady state. The oil heaters take about 2-3 hours to hit steady state, the Kat's is quicker at 1-1.5 hours. As for blocking more of the front air areas, had to stop at the closest one to the hood- it was spiking the temp at heavy traffic and trapped too much heat inside. After my upper rad hose coolant temp hits 180+, the car has a hard time at idle and almost stalls (too hot). So put a radiator fan bypass through a standard Suby Outback fan relay and to a switch on the dash. In Portland you don't have to deal with this crap, desert heat is really hard on cars. The Kat's coolant block heater was a pain to install, there is only ONE location this will work, right at the bottom of the radiator. I hose clamped it to the radiator fan frame to keep it as vertical as possible. After it's all set up though, just unplug the cords before going to work, then engine is at 140 F, the engine runs lean at normal 800 RPM idle, and doesn't have to run super rich @ 1500 RPM to warm up. The oil and ECVT pans are frustrating because they formed a lot or curves and steps, so you don't really get much flat surface area. So the 300 W heater is for the oil pan, and mounted vertically on the passenger side and rests against the drain plug. The Kat's 200 W heater on the ECVT barely fits on the only flat footprint of the pan, the bottom front. I have to check every couple of weeks to check for movement on the heaters, one of these days I'll just spot RTV them to the pans. Final word on Kat's coolant circulation heaters, there are a lot of rules to keep them from burning out. Plus changing the coolant from here on out is going to be more of a pain. You cannot have the car idling with the block heater plugged in, and there cannot be any air bubbles trapped in the unit. s53.photobucket.com/user/cvan707/slideshow/Justy
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Post by ke7ofi on Mar 27, 2017 16:44:00 GMT -5
Meaning you blocked all the holes except the top "grille" one?
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Post by cvan on Mar 28, 2017 22:47:48 GMT -5
Correct, the grill vents with the waffle pattern. Was going to put clear polycarb if it worked out but it didn't. The two smaller 1 x 10 slots I left open as well- they aren't very big and it would help in summer.
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