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Post by earthbounding on Aug 19, 2015 5:07:28 GMT -5
bore at big end of rods: #1 45.00 - 45.05mm #2 45.00 - 45.02mm #3 45.00 - 45.02mm piston skirts (scuff marks on both sides of all pistons): #1 78.48mm #2 78.49mm #3 78.48mm
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Post by madmatt on Aug 20, 2015 2:49:08 GMT -5
From here... that looks like the better starting point. As for the piston scuffing... Piston slap, it's what makes a subaru a subaru! post some pics though. Wipe the block bores down with a rag and some "spirit" wd40, light oil, something to wipe off the rust first, before you touch it with a hone. See what remains of the hactching, and if there are any pits. But so far this looks like the better block, unless you want to bore the other one. You can use your new crank in it too... Oh and those rods are at least much closer to round! Too bad Dusty's site is down. I don't have anything here where I am, maybe somebody with an FSM can post specs. We should do a "spec page"...
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 20, 2015 5:08:18 GMT -5
i have one but there are some things you you cant learn from a book doesn't tell you to check the rod ends or the crankcase cover (can i reuse it with a new oil pump?) post some picks as soon as i get things cleaned up a bit
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 20, 2015 19:29:09 GMT -5
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 21, 2015 5:09:45 GMT -5
first(top) ring end gap .48mm -.50mm limit is .35, ring groove clearance on top ring of #2 is .10mm limit is .075 and number/letter that shows which side is up has worn off, compression test i had done some time ago showed there was no pressure in one of the cylinders and low in the other two
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Post by Armageddous on Aug 21, 2015 10:43:53 GMT -5
Is there has been piston slap there is a good change those bores are over sized.. But by looking at what you have there I would say everything looks ok.
When measuring ring gap, you put the rings in the cylinders. If you didn't do this, that would explain your bogus numbers.
If you hone the cylinders make sure is it's a very light "rehatching" (Not a word, just made it up.) if you are re-using the old rings. You don't want to confuse them.
Where was this thing stored? Lots of moisture in the air or something? Thankfully it looks like the inside didn't get affected, just the exposed portions of the cylinders.
Terry
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 21, 2015 18:52:27 GMT -5
I'm going to use new rings, didn't do a thorough job of checking the rings yet. I'll take all the measurements again several times as soon as i get a bore gage. None of the stores around here have one so i have to wait for it in the mail. the engine sat in the car for over a year with the head off (didn't think about oiling the cylinder walls). theres a lot rain/humidity here and it got wet when my tarp got blown down while i was at work. moved the parts inside in the a/c and keep oil on them. heads still in the back of the car, haven't done anything with it since i pulled it
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Post by certimafied on Aug 21, 2015 19:29:12 GMT -5
When I did my engine rebuild My machine shop and I found out that the only 20 under bearings we could find also had a larger thrust cut into. We didnt find that out until I had everything ready to go and was about to drop the crank in. The rear wouldn't fit WTF? the Thrust bearing portion of the new rear main bearing was also oversized, go figure.
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Post by madmatt on Aug 24, 2015 4:39:25 GMT -5
first(top) ring end gap .48mm -.50mm limit is .35, ring groove clearance on top ring of #2 is .10mm limit is .075 and number/letter that shows which side is up has worn off, compression test i had done some time ago showed there was no pressure in one of the cylinders and low in the other two those numbers sound like standard rings in your oversize bore who did the overbored rebuild? those pistons look mighty fine to me, and the bores look "not bad". a light hone, and new oversized rings and i think you'll be in good shape! but confirm that this is going in your 88 chassis? you know about the non-equal halfshaft thingy? The gen 1 blocks don't have all the support castings for the driveshaft extension. there is a work around though if you want to make that upgrade from your second gen stuff.
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 24, 2015 20:34:31 GMT -5
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 24, 2015 20:37:08 GMT -5
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Post by madmatt on Sept 3, 2015 8:42:04 GMT -5
Earthbounding, Not sure where you're at here, I've been AWOL again... hope you weren't waiting on us. Your "black block" is a second gen block for sure, and has all the bits for going in either chassis... you can cross those bridges when you get there. Certainly the black block looks better. Your new crank could go in there... I'd take the "black block" rods to your machine shop, and have them check them before proceeding. Probably worth having them bored. One of the issues with "doing it yourself" is you have a steep learning curve, and unless the machine shop is really inquisitive, and wants to help you rather then just machine your parts. It's easy to miss something. I'd make sure they know you are new to this, and you need help getting it right. Otherwise they might expect you to have already confirmed assorted clearances. Some shops won't care, and just need to pump out cranks... others (typically smaller operations) can be quite accommodating to the hobby builder. Particularly if the rods arrive taped to a 6 pack
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Post by madmatt on Sept 3, 2015 8:56:09 GMT -5
When I did my engine rebuild My machine shop and I found out that the only 20 under bearings we could find also had a larger thrust cut into. We didnt find that out until I had everything ready to go and was about to drop the crank in. The rear wouldn't fit WTF? the Thrust bearing portion of the new rear main bearing was also oversized, go figure. Had exactly the same issue... See my comment above about working with your machine shop....
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Post by earthbounding on Sept 3, 2015 20:35:31 GMT -5
my bore gage set has come in been taking measurements of everything a dozen times, picked up assembly lube, gallery brushes and 3/8 drive torque wrench. Noticed the machine shop bent the balance shaft plug and never said anything (you can see it in the picture).... remeasured rods with a bore gage: #1 45.03 - 45.00 #2 45.00 - 45.01 #3 45.00 - 45.02 ....
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Post by earthbounding on Sept 4, 2015 5:45:55 GMT -5
piston bores have been measuring 78.50 - 78.52, still getting to much gap on the rings, going to measure again this weekend when i have more time
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Post by earthbounding on Sept 5, 2015 9:36:16 GMT -5
water pump kit and reman distributor should be in next week, I have to get the pricey parts while the overtime pay lasts.
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Post by earthbounding on Sept 8, 2015 6:17:24 GMT -5
the thrust portion of the main bearings is wider on over sized bearings i have, the polished crank i have is going to need a set of std bearings. torqued the rod & main bearing caps and remeasured everything. mains are perfect, two of the rods are out of round and rings still have to much gap, but not as much as before. looking for another machine shop to hone the bores, resize the rod ends and get it cleaned/tanked
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Post by earthbounding on Sept 24, 2015 5:57:29 GMT -5
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Post by earthbounding on Oct 16, 2015 14:16:57 GMT -5
two of the rocker arms are worn out and the machine shop couldn't find replacements, bringing the other cylinderhead in for parts.....
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Post by earthbounding on Oct 16, 2015 21:49:53 GMT -5
block is ready, bores checked out ok. replaced one of the pistons (could only get (last?) one new .020 over piston from subaru), replaced the exhaust valves and seals...
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