|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 16, 2015 6:01:10 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by madmatt on Aug 16, 2015 17:34:39 GMT -5
um... even cheap me doesn't think you'll get away with a slight hone there...
do those pits catch your fingernail?
do you have a hone? you could try honing it out. knowing you will likely be going to the machine shop again.
and i wouldn't spend any time on the pistons till you know what's happening with the block.
and please confirm with the machine shop they checked the big end off the rods. otherwise you could be changing bearings again in short order.
do you have a decent caliper?
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 16, 2015 18:13:03 GMT -5
i have a digital caliper and a cylinder hone, ran it through # 2(center) few times already. tag on the crank says: "trust: ok sizes:Rods 000 Mains 000" with a line through them.
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 16, 2015 18:50:58 GMT -5
crankpins and crank journals measure 41.98mm - 42.00mm
|
|
|
Post by madmatt on Aug 17, 2015 4:21:08 GMT -5
My caliper comment was in reference to the rod bores... with them lightly torqued down, check in several "clock" directions across the bore to see if they are still round, anything more then 0.001 of an inch and I'd think about boring
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 17, 2015 4:28:21 GMT -5
measurements from bores at the big end of the rods:(don't have a vice or torque wrench yet to fit anything under 14mm so i just tightened the bolts by hand) first number is from center of rod to center of cap: #1 45.12 - 45.01 #2 44.99 - 44.98 #3 44.90 - 45.00
|
|
|
Post by madmatt on Aug 17, 2015 5:08:55 GMT -5
is that tightened "by hand" with a wrench or ratchet? or just "finger tight"? they need to be more then finger tight. more like 25 foot lbs...
if that's wrench tight... they need to be rebored.
|
|
|
Post by madmatt on Aug 17, 2015 5:09:44 GMT -5
i don't have the spec on me... compare with Dustys justys for sizing
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 17, 2015 5:20:07 GMT -5
dustys justys is missing, can't find the site anywhere, no luck on finding new rods for sale anywhere so far
|
|
|
Post by madmatt on Aug 17, 2015 5:23:18 GMT -5
you won't likely need new rods. just have the ends rebored. they take a bit off the ends of the caps, put them back together and re bore back to size.
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 17, 2015 5:34:47 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 17, 2015 6:04:47 GMT -5
off to work to earn my car payment....new rods,pistons,rings and bearings
|
|
|
Post by madmatt on Aug 17, 2015 6:56:11 GMT -5
before you order anything, there are more measurements to make...
and i don't think you need new rods! the last set of rods i had rebored were less then $30 for all three. less then the price of one new rod...
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 17, 2015 16:07:33 GMT -5
ok, be few weeks till i can afford to buy anything, what other things do i need to measure also have the reman engine i pulled and haven't took apart yet, its got oversized pistons...
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Aug 17, 2015 22:42:33 GMT -5
I would honestly look for another bottom end to put your crank in to..
Terry
|
|
|
Post by madmatt on Aug 18, 2015 3:58:14 GMT -5
I would honestly look for another bottom end to put your crank in to.. Terry Yeah... What's the state of your other block? The one with the oversized pistons already in it? Was there a reason you did not tear it down?
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 18, 2015 5:06:35 GMT -5
i was planing on rebuilding it after doing the first to have a spare. I'll start on the other engine this evening
|
|
|
Post by madmatt on Aug 18, 2015 5:34:29 GMT -5
sounds like a good cheap plan tear it down, see what it looks like. but remember to keep EVERYTHING seperate at this point. no mixing parts just yet.
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 18, 2015 5:49:57 GMT -5
learned my lesson about being to cheap and using worn parts with my axles (2 sets of wheel bearings/seals, 2 sets of hubs, 3 sets of axles, ball-joints,tie-rods,steering gear....).
|
|
|
Post by earthbounding on Aug 18, 2015 19:37:23 GMT -5
|
|