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Post by earthbounding on Jul 10, 2015 23:52:02 GMT -5
My mothers given me her 89' justy to use for parts ( ecvt gl with a e12 engine and 5 spd manual trans) for my 88' Justy. I've already pulled both engines and transmissions and started cleaning parts and the engine bay on the 88', but its going to take a while, theres oil all over everything. The engine from the 89 seemed to run fine but has quite a few oil leaks, so i'm replacing all the seals,gaskets and o- rings.
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 11, 2015 18:54:02 GMT -5
oil every where
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 11, 2015 19:10:40 GMT -5
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Post by Armageddous on Jul 12, 2015 2:07:33 GMT -5
I love the claw hammer in the one pic.
Looks like your bearings are wasted, and you should probably inspect the oil pump really well. Read up on the oil pressure issues, causes, and solutions on the forum.
Looks like greasy fun!
Terry
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 12, 2015 12:46:03 GMT -5
theres lots scoring on the shaft of the inner oil pump rotor, and a little on the top of both rotors.
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 12, 2015 13:43:07 GMT -5
the smallest gage i have is .008 in/.203 mm and it barely fits between the rear bearing and connecting rod. i cant get the tools to check the cylinder bore and crank until next weekend, then i need to get my car running and the other justy parted out asp. My landlord wants me to get the yard cleaned up and any vehicles not running gone.
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Post by Armageddous on Jul 12, 2015 22:47:08 GMT -5
If you're on a time crunch, just put in new bearings and a new pump. It'll get you by.
Use an anaerobic sealant when you put your chain guide back on.
Be sure to replace the O-ring on the pick up tube for the oil pump.
Terry
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 13, 2015 5:30:54 GMT -5
going to order new bearings,rings and pumps friday. I'm not so sure about reusing the chain, it seems to have a lot of slack. doesn't show how much stretch is allowed in the service manual (or where to use liquid sealant). I'll seal the guide, is there other places i need to use sealant?
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 14, 2015 5:44:23 GMT -5
took your advice and have been reading about oil pressure problems.Never overhauled/rebuilt an engine before and need all the advice i can get. Thank you. I've changed my mind about just putting in new bearings, going to take the block, crank and other parts to shop and get them clean and machined before i get anything else.
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Post by madmatt on Jul 14, 2015 8:10:38 GMT -5
earthbounding.
make sure to work with the shop on sourcing the bearings... supplies are getting low! I had a crank done "20 under" meaning .020 of an inch taken off, and then it took a while to find those bearings.
They are out there, but make sure you have them in hand before they do the work.
Matt
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jul 14, 2015 10:34:53 GMT -5
if you do a clutch while youre at it (highly recommended because of the labor it takes to get to that) i would suggest the exedy kit. I have it, love it and have used exedy OEM replacements in all of my cars when the time came. They are lighter than stock, OEM pressure plate feel and tend to hold slightly more power. they advertise 5% which is like 1 hp on this car
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 15, 2015 4:53:37 GMT -5
have 2 with cracks all along intake side more where air clean bolt goes
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 18, 2015 9:02:54 GMT -5
Dropped the block, crank, pistons,front cover and balance shaft off at the shop for cleaning and inspection. Should know what parts I need sometime next week.
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 24, 2015 19:22:50 GMT -5
All the parts i took in have been cleaned and the block checked, just needs resurfacing,honing, and new balance shaft bearings pressed in. If the crank and pistons check out ok i should be able to use standard ring and bearing sets (green).
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Post by earthbounding on Jul 24, 2015 19:59:49 GMT -5
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 14, 2015 4:58:07 GMT -5
block and crank should be ready today, they were waiting for the balance shaft bearings and the mechanic working on it hadn't had time to finish.... haven't gotten the crankcase or the head worked on yet, I live paycheck to paycheck and wont have extra money til next month... cleaned up the yard the best i could and landlord said i could use his engine hoist if i need it. also made some room inside so i can put the engine together without getting it full of dirt.
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 14, 2015 19:16:38 GMT -5
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Post by madmatt on Aug 15, 2015 15:48:05 GMT -5
okay, First off, I'm pretty green at engine building, so hopefully others will chime in. (Terry where are you? ) They did not hone the cylinders... as you can tell. The corrosion there appears to be just surface, but did you ask them to check the bores? I would at very least get some green scotchbrite and rub the bores down until they are CLEAN, and then see what remains of the crosshatching. Probably not going to be an issue, but lets at least see that there's no pitting there. Same for the top of the block. Why is there an old bearing in the block still? Don't run your newly ground crank in that old thing, don't even set it in! Did they tell you how round (or out of round) the rod big ends are? Looks like your oil rings are pretty gummed up... (the bottom ones). In Canada, we get this great stuff called "Releaseall" That will take the carbon and junk of pistons in a 1/2 hr soak... just don't leave them too long or it will etch the aluminium!
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Post by earthbounding on Aug 15, 2015 17:35:55 GMT -5
this is my first time rebuilding an engine or dealing with a machine shop and not completely sure what i should do. they never said anything to me about the rods,just said they'd put a mic and checked the cylinders. i didn't know if the shop would need the old bearings or not. i haven't bought any parts yet so i cant put the crank in yet. #2 had a stuck ring( i plan on buying new ones). also has some pitting near the top of the bore and a rough spot where the white ring is in the photos...
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Post by Deleted on Aug 15, 2015 20:07:14 GMT -5
this is my first time rebuilding an engine or dealing with a machine shop and not completely sure what i should do. they never said anything to me about the rods,just said they'd put a mic and checked the cylinders. i didn't know if the shop would need the old bearings or not. i haven't bought any parts yet so i cant put the crank in yet. #2 had a stuck ring( i plan on buying new ones). also has some pitting near the top of the bore and a rough spot where the white ring is in the photos... Ditto what Matt said. I would say it's likely you're going to need a re-bore and new pistons, so clean out your cylinders to bare metal before you spend any time on the pistons or order rings. I had mine bored .002" over and got my parts through the machine shop that was doing the work. I think I paid $100 for all three pistons, so it wasn't terribly expensive. They were Safety brand.
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