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Post by gearheadeh on Nov 7, 2016 11:30:58 GMT -5
Those wires are fine. Could it be something with the ignition switch? I suppose, but when they go, it is usually that the starter will not work, you have to short out the wires at the starter with a screw driver and it starts
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Post by subru on Nov 7, 2016 11:49:22 GMT -5
I didn't understand that. The starter is working 😊 And all of the cables from the ignition switch is fine
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Post by subru on Dec 18, 2016 3:36:58 GMT -5
Finally got my justy up and running. Did use the same Transistor you used, but it didn't last long. My burned up after a few kilometers. But I found one ignition module from a Legacy. And now it works! 😀😀
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Post by papcina on Dec 29, 2016 13:20:35 GMT -5
uhm... dunno really why it burned, my is working without any problem so far from the day I replaced... well, i'm glad it works now with that legacy igniter
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Post by marcus on Sept 22, 2017 9:25:31 GMT -5
I have followed this post with interest as my 89 justy ignitor failed. My Dad (who is knowledgeable about this stuff) obtained and installed a BU391P and it worked well for about 2-300 miles before failing recently. I ordered another couple transistors, but am wondering if anyone knows why the short life compared to the stock version? It failed shortly after being started when cold on a fall day, so I'm doubting heat caused it. Any ideas?
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Post by Armageddous on Sept 24, 2017 0:53:24 GMT -5
Did it just stop working, or fry? A big difference between and igniter and just a transistor/FET is added circuitry for the inductive spiked kicked back from the coil field collapsing.
Also, the amount of current supplied from the ECM is minimal. If a transistor is used, you must make sure it's rate of amplification is suited for application. Otherwise, use a logic level FET.
Hope this helps.
Terry
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Post by larryb on Oct 29, 2019 18:36:22 GMT -5
Adding some more info to the thread. I started having starting problems earlier this year, and over the summer checked all the usual items. BTW: 1992 DL 2WD with carb DL'ed the FSM that someone posted, and used the 'no start' flowchart to the point where it said the replace the ECU on page 2-1 28. After getting my hands on the replacement ECU... The car started just fine. I decided to take a short trip to the store...and it WOULD NOT START. After waiting about an hour, it started back up, so I QUICKLY got it back home. So I came to the additional conclusion that it really acts up after it's warmed up. That lead me to this thread. The 'ignitor' isn't listed in the Subaru Parts Manual... Just the entire Coil. It's a bloody damn shame that this part isn't available. So, On to disassemble the power transistor casing. After a lot of picking away at the goop in it, and cracking the plastic cover off of it, it reveals a new number for the record. It has 1N02 stamped on the transistor. A quick google for a "1N02 TO-3" comes up with nothing exact. (I was going to attach the photos...but the board says there's no more room for attachments. This does NOT bode well for the future of this place, does it? ) I'll link them to my home server: Top view of the transistor: Here's a shot with me using a component tester on it. And the Bottom View: Based on other folks solutions, I found an ECG98 Transistor on ebay for $10 US. The BU930 is around $15, and would require international shipping. Looks like a proper sub for the BU930.... BUT the question is: WHY does mine say 1N02?
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Post by larryb on Nov 4, 2019 18:04:22 GMT -5
Follow up:
installed the ECG98, and it fired right up, BUT lasted about 10 minutes until it shorted out and died.
Again after it warmed back up it stalls out with a 'clicking noise' in the dash.
Some more diagnosis has gotten me to the conclusion that it is something with the 'rocking' of the motor that makes it die.
Let it cool down while i reinstalled the 1N02 on the heat sink, reinstalled in the car...and it fired right back up again.
Sitting in the driveway, I let it warm up again, and then did a couple of quick back & forth motions going from 1st to Rev...and got it to die doing some weak sauce hole shots.
DAMN!!!! Back to my the original issue that it's probably wiring, but It's got to be buried in the one of the many looms under the hood. I've looked at every connector, and did LOTS of jiggling on most of them while it was warming up. No issues. Pulled the two ground wires...cleaned them up and reinstalled, too.
Without a multitude of probes and meters to watch while it's running, I'm beating my head on a brick wall.
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Post by subarucoop on Jul 15, 2021 23:28:19 GMT -5
Test your starter since the solenoid can go on those pretty quickly. Use a Ford maverick solenoid from 1972 in line and see if that helps. I can show pics later if you are interested.
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