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Post by certimafied on Mar 29, 2015 22:01:05 GMT -5
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Post by certimafied on Mar 29, 2015 22:08:39 GMT -5
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Post by madmatt on Mar 30, 2015 21:39:42 GMT -5
oooooohhhhh Very sexy! What carb is that? Weber? Did the head check out all okay? Um, those aren't "cheep cheep" cars in the background dude... And I must admit... I'm considering a similar block colour... The last one was orange. I don't think I should do the same, kinda bad karma. I thought about flat black, but it's not quite bling... gun metal grey? mmmm
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Post by certimafied on Mar 30, 2015 21:43:20 GMT -5
Ok the details are needed right?
Well I knew I needed all the gaskets and seals so I found an entire engine seal kit from rockauto i forget the price now. I also got new seals for the transmission from rockauto I believe. New water pump from ebay beck arnley which I think is a superb brand for a cheap $10 US with shipping. That was when I sent everything to my machine shop.
My original head ended up having spark plug thread repair inserts already and come to find out a crack in between an intake and the exhaust valve in the cyl 2 combustion chamber. I posted my problem here and was able to get help from madmatt who had an extra head to sell me. I sent that head off to find that it also had the same crack in the cyl 2 combustion chamber. I had madmatt's head sent off for repair, in the mean time the block and crank shaft were attended to.
When i sent everything in I knew a few things the crank main bearings were completely worn out, the rod bearings were beginning to look bad and there were some bad spots in the bores of two cylinders but the worst was cyl. 2 two. The news came back that in order to get the crank shaft main and rod bearings journals true again the main would have to be turned .020 in and the rods turned down .010 in. I could not find main bearing .020 over but my machine shop could I had them order the rod bearings as well. It also happened that the block had to have its cylinders bored out another .020 in.
I ended up getting the oversized pistons from dustys justys at the same time I ordered new oil chain sprockets, a new chain, and a new chain guide. I went with the bigger guide (blue I think) and the gold link chain as suggested here on the forum. I will say that the gold links really just make things unbelievably easy and the bigger guide made everything fit just right. So thank you to those that helped with the input and first hand experience. I had to get the rings for the oversized pistons from rockauto.
I cleaned all the nuts and bolts as I went and painted things as well. I used a high heat cast finish paint that my machine shop had recommended I used a cast aluminum on the aluminum of course and a cast iron on the block. After that it was all assembly, I'm very close right now I just have not had the time lately it has really been killing me. Well carry fellow justy enthusiasts, Im out!
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Post by certimafied on Mar 30, 2015 22:03:17 GMT -5
Yes sir MadMatt that is a weber 32/36 if I remember correctly, and I believe the paint is a cast iron or cast grey as its color description I wanted to go with a natural metal look. : ) you noticed the background huh?, thats what I work on daily and my japanese stuff on the weekends!
Other than the same crack in the combustion chamber I think the head will work out madmatt. I made a note to take a picture of my original head and the crack that it has. From what I found between the deep pitting in the bore of cyl. 2 and the cracked combustion chambers I am under the assumption that the number two cylinder is a working really hard.
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Post by certimafied on Mar 31, 2015 18:56:04 GMT -5
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Post by Armageddous on Apr 2, 2015 22:43:28 GMT -5
Looking good! Please tell me you sealed the chain guide to the block!!
Terry
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Post by certimafied on Apr 3, 2015 20:47:16 GMT -5
Say What!?!? I was supposed to seal the chain guide to the block?
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Post by certimafied on Apr 3, 2015 21:08:49 GMT -5
Oh wait a minute, one you already told me I just want back and looked through the threads, and two i did seal it I remember now because my buddy whose a "honda expert" was arguing that is was a waste of my time. He also argued that I was rotating my engine backwards that all japanese are counter clockwise. Good question though thanks
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Post by Armageddous on Apr 3, 2015 21:45:11 GMT -5
Yes, Honda expert. The name says it all.
I tend to rigorously enforce my ideals about the chain guides. But once I found it as a pressure loss culprit, I was convinced I had found our little engine oiling issue. To this day my Justy still has awesome oil pressure. (And I beat it like a dirty rug.)
Terry
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Post by madmatt on Apr 10, 2015 0:02:31 GMT -5
Yes, Honda expert. The name says it all. I tend to rigorously enforce my ideals about the chain guides. But once I found it as a pressure loss culprit, I was convinced I had found our little engine oiling issue. To this day my Justy still has awesome oil pressure. (And I beat it like a dirty rug.) Terry Continue to do so... I believe the issue is a flow problem, and nothing more... and given that plate is at the end of the galley... any loss out there, well, it's a loss, and thus loss of flow to the good ole #1. That said, there are a ton of other "problem spots"...
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Post by certimafied on Apr 15, 2015 21:25:15 GMT -5
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Post by madmatt on Apr 15, 2015 23:23:41 GMT -5
wow, You just answered a whole bunch of questions for me! Can you tell me if the pinion gear (for the final ring on the diff) is pressed on to the driven shaft? I'm curious if its worth trying to find an alternate final drive set... (from your pics, it's not looking good.) Oh... and that's the smallest diff I think I've ever seen.
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Post by certimafied on Apr 16, 2015 11:40:57 GMT -5
ok ill post some pictures later that will help illustrate what im going to say, also bare with me as im sure my terminology will be different or wrong from yours. Ok the big gear, that would be like the ring gear in a typical setup i think?, looks to be bolted to the spider gear housing. when looking at the gear head on where you can see the bolt heads, the bearing looks to be pressed onto a flange that is part of the ,what ill call, ring gear. With out taking it apart and just studying the setup it looks as though you could unbolt the "ring gear" from the spider gear housing and the two should come apart no problem and then the splined shaft would slide out of the center of the "ring gear". Once the ring gear is gone along with its splined shaft the other side looks like it would just slide right apart too.
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Post by certimafied on Apr 16, 2015 11:56:13 GMT -5
this one is of the "ring gear" and its splined shaft ,going to the cv axle, red pick is pointing to the bearing that is pressed onto the "ring gears" flange ,orange pick. the splined shaft spins freely inside the "ring gear" the orange pick is pointing to what i refered to as the spider gear housing , again im not sure if my terminology is correct or not, it looks like the "ring gear" is just bolted to "the housing" some additional pics from different angles, i'm hoping to replace the seals and bearings today and then reassemble tomorrow so let me know if you want any other pictures of the inside of this "little bitty".
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Post by madmatt on Apr 16, 2015 16:14:48 GMT -5
Sweet...
Yep, my concern was the pinion on the driven shaft of the "gearbox" the little guy that spins that big "ring gear" on the diff... is it machined out of that shaft or fit to it...
Anyway, I would have to find a set of three gears... smaller pinion on the driven shaft of the gearbox, larger ring gear and then smaller gear for the little shaft driven by the ring gear that goes to that bevel gear for the rear... too many gears.
Too much... maybe
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Post by Armageddous on May 6, 2015 21:55:34 GMT -5
Thread hijack.
madmatt, on account of me getting a 2wd Justy I looked up the ratios and found that it's final drive is 4.437 where the 4wd is 5.2
However, 5th gear is .675 for 2wd and .631 for 4wd.
Therefor, in 5th gear the ratio from engine to wheel rpm is:
2wd = 2.994975 : 1 4wd = 3.2812 : 1
You should be able to stuff the mainshaft and countershaft from a 4wd trans into a 2wd trans and safely end up with a end ratio of 2.799747 : 1! That drops your RPM by 15%!
However, who wants a 2wd? That brings the question of how can we take advantage of the 4wd transmission with the 2wd final drive!
Terry
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Post by Armageddous on May 6, 2015 22:13:04 GMT -5
Just because I like math.
A P145 80 R12 tire is 21 inches in diameter. At 4000 RPM the final speeds are approx as follows.
2wd = 83.95 MPH = 135.11 KMH
4wd = 76.63 MPH = 123.11 KMH
Or, ideally! 89.81 MPH = 144.53 KMH
Obviously these are not real world numbers, but they give the seperation nicely!
These were made assuming..
Wheel diameter = 66.381852770352331128715654688696" 1 mile = 1.60934 KM 1 mile = 63360"
Terry
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Post by madmatt on May 7, 2015 16:12:08 GMT -5
thanks Terry, but i actually want to go the other way! i never use 5th... mostly 2-3 and occasionally 4... and the gaps between gears means unless i shift at 6000+ rpm I'm dropping out of what seems to be peak torque. If i up the final drive to insane, then that effectively reduces the gaps between gears and I'd stay more in the peak power curve between shifts. it also means 4-5 would be more usable... as it is rare i get over 120km hr on stage except really long straights. my local rallies dont have many! thanks though! and sweet looking 1st gen you picked up!. (sorry fornthe thread jack certimified! )
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Post by Armageddous on May 7, 2015 21:19:06 GMT -5
I see! I am always trying to get lower RPM on the highway and assumed everyone did.
So you need a 2wd gear set with the 4wd final drive, to attain.. A ratio of 3.51 : 1 and at 4000rpm, you get 71mph/115kmh.
That would of course change 4th and 5th only as 1, 2, and 3rd are the same.
Terry
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