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Post by certimafied on Nov 2, 2014 13:18:25 GMT -5
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Post by gearheadeh on Nov 2, 2014 13:25:10 GMT -5
Broken spring and a probably warped center causing the other spring to wear. Did this make any noises? We have a members other rides section, Would you like to show us that nice looking chevy 2?
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Post by certimafied on Nov 2, 2014 13:47:06 GMT -5
The first pic in the last post you can see how the top spring has cracked in half in is retainer. The spring directly below it had fallen out and was getting in the way keeping a connection, you can see a shiny flat spot on the lower spring where it got caught in between the disc and plate surface. Heres a better picture I pressure washed the crap out of the engine bay and trans with the engine out it looked like the input shaft seal on the trans and the rear main seal on engine had been leaking there was a lot of build up. She looks much better now, it was funny how much crud came off of the car especially considering I had already pressure washed it 2 times before engine removal. I even pressure washed the engine the last picture in the first post shows my buddy holding a beer spraying degreaser on that greasey little 3 banger. My plans are to reseal the oil pan and check the lower end while im down there. Check the oil pump clearance I found a purchased an oil pump bore sleeve kit from rock auto might have been a waste of $12 may work who knows. I just want to correct my low oil pressure problem for good (how ever long that may be) I want to check my balancer chain guide too if my bearings look good on the lower end. I have a lot of noise on the lower end but to me it seemed to be at certain rpms. I also have new oil seals for the trans and brake hoses for all four corners. Well hope you guys enjoyed the pictures, I'll try to remember to take more I wanted to take some during the process but completely forgot until it was out.
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Post by certimafied on Nov 2, 2014 13:50:49 GMT -5
It did make noise gearheadeh it would squeal with the clutch depressed but still pulled fine if you could get it in gear that loose spring would keep a connection some times. Ha, I knew somebody would say something, which chevy are you talking about the old truck on the left or the old chevy II on the right. Those are customer cars, I did the work at the shop I work at, I will gladly post more pics though.
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Post by Mato393 on Nov 2, 2014 15:20:53 GMT -5
I need to get out engine of my parts car (looks like it is almost same Justy) and I have some problems with this. It is very heavy with transmission... Actually I am thinking about getting it out down-way and put it on skateboard to pull it away(together with trans)... Get out engine and than transmission sounds better, but i do not know witch bolts I need to remove to disconnect transmission from engine (it is covered in liters of engine oil and all stuff that sticks in the oil from air)...
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Post by certimafied on Nov 2, 2014 20:32:22 GMT -5
Hey Mato, I pressure washed my engine trans 2 times before I pulled it to make it easier and honestly nicer to work on and it still got my pretty greasy . I can tell you that you have to remove the starter and then I think there are 3 other bolts on each side of the engine below the starter. Then you have to remove the removable center section of the sub frame and the mount from the transmission, remove the flywheel dust shield too. Be sure to support trans with jack during this process, you will have to tilt the trans and engine up to get input shaft to clear engine. Oh, also I disconnected the clutch through the starter hole. I didnt have to remove any thing from the body not even the hood. Wasn't to bad but I realized that you pretty much disconnect everything supporting the engine and trans together. Just a few more connectors, two cv axles, a drive shaft, and some cables it would have been ready to come out. I know the engine hoist I used could have done the job and with two other guys helping it wouldnt have been much harder, I would probably remove the grill and that removable front upper support bar to give a little extra space if I removed both of them together. Just my two cents, any way good luck with your project!
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Post by Mato393 on Nov 3, 2014 14:00:22 GMT -5
Be sure to support trans with jack during this process, you will have to tilt the trans and engine up to get input shaft to clear engine. Oh, also I disconnected the clutch through the starter hole. So the trans can be removed before engine? What do you mean disconnect clutch? It should be just slipped on shaft doesn't it? And did someone know how much does engine weight?
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Post by certimafied on Nov 3, 2014 22:57:56 GMT -5
The trans input shaft does slide on the clutch assembly but the clutch assembly bolts onto the flywheel which is bolted onto the engine if you unbolt the clutch/pressure plate assembly from the flywheel through the starter hole then you wont have to pull the engine away from the transmission as far because the clutch/pressure plate assembly stays with the trans. on the input shaft.
I had to remove the center cross member under the engine and trans to get the two apart. When you do that there is only one mount holding the trans in the car so you have to support it with a jack. Not only that in order to get the trans input shaft out of the way enough you have to tilt the front of engine and trans. up to clear the subframe in the front of engine where pulley is. The jack helps you do that, This is why I say it would be easier to pull the two together if you have the means.
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Post by Mato393 on Nov 4, 2014 15:10:04 GMT -5
The lower center engine and trans mount is removable with engine and the trans with removed 2 nuts from down?
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Post by certimafied on Nov 5, 2014 19:28:00 GMT -5
I think you are correct. you can just unbolt the center mount from below if you are pulling the two, engine and trans, together as one piece.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Nov 11, 2014 13:58:35 GMT -5
yes both will come out still attached to one another from the top. you need to support the weight of the engine/trans with a shop crane, then drop the center cross member that runs fore to aft. then disconnect the axles and pull the motor. This assumes that everything else was already disconnected. I had the exact same clutch failure mode that you have here. except that one spring was missing BOTH retaining flaps and the spring was rolling around between the pressure plate and disc. This was causing it to act like the clutch was not engaged. My thread subarujusty.proboards.com/thread/5021/clutch-broken
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Post by certimafied on Nov 16, 2014 17:37:24 GMT -5
Well what started out as just changing out the clutch and a few gaskets and seals turned into much more once I dug in deeper... Just about to look at things on the bottom end Rod Bearing looks ok, they all looked the same relatively new. Main 1 Main 2 and Main 3 , didnt snap a pic of 4 for some reason but you can imagine it looked pretty similar in condition to the other 3. I remember why there was no pic of main 4 I couldnt get it out right then Once I took the eninge off the stand I removed it.
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Post by certimafied on Nov 16, 2014 17:42:41 GMT -5
Here we go again! Bottom of Cylinder head Back side of front cover Balance Shaft chain with lots of play and a very worn out tensioner. My new paper weight! Sent her off to the machine shop for clean up around wednesday last week we'll see whats up soon.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Nov 16, 2014 23:29:43 GMT -5
can we get some hi-res shots of the piston faces and cylinder head combustion chamber?
not sure if you said it, but can you list miles predominant type of driving and length of ownership?
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Post by Mato393 on Nov 17, 2014 13:47:02 GMT -5
I do not know where is the transmission mount that you talking about while dismounting engine, but I have find out it is broken in my car and it do not holds the trans. I made that ugly thing to put the engine on skateboard: It is slow but it works and it costs just some 10€...
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Post by certimafied on Nov 19, 2014 19:12:13 GMT -5
Hey sp0ngebob, I don't have the engine and pistons right now they are at the machine shop. I can take pics afterwards, they may not show much after the shop gets done with it. I can tell you that all of the pistons had some carbon build up, nothing bad just a light coating on the heads and the tops of the pistons. I have only owned the car for maybe a month and a half, driven it 6 times in fact. The previous owner had done piston rings rod bearings and a head gasket. With that being said Ill have to tell you that cyl2 was much cleaner that the other two most likely from the steam cleaning action of the blown head gasket it had. Cylinder 2s bore had some evidence of pitting from rust too, again not too bad just enough to barely catch your finger nail on it. Wish I had taken more pictures now. O I can't say much for the driving style it has suffered through but I can tell you that it has been in at least three rally races, it has the stickers on the windshield, and the clock has between 98000 and 99000, could have a 1 before that number not 100% sure though. Hey Mato, nothing wrong with your setup it doesnt matter what it looks like just as long as it works without hurting yourself . The mount I was talking about is on the rear of the transmission, the mount mounts to the trans and the subframe. Not sure of your cars configuration, I'm in the US so my steering wheel is on the left, I would say for me the mount is pretty much right under the pedals. Not sure if that helped or not but thats my 2 cent either way. I've got a question for you, how are you using that setup to drop the engine down on the skate your have? Is that a threaded rod that the chain is attached to?
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Post by sp0ngebob on Nov 20, 2014 11:12:21 GMT -5
if you can catch your fingernail on it, they are no good. thats the general rule. it will likely cause a "hot spot" and could cause knock/detonation.
consider finding some fresh slugs. I would love to see clean pictures. what im looking for could be hidden by the carbon.
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Post by certimafied on Nov 20, 2014 20:52:46 GMT -5
Sp0ngebob, I agree if my nail can catch it is bad, but i will say an engine can run with a small imperfection like mine had not efficiently but run. I feel like my justy was pretty peppy the way it was especially with just three cylinders and the problems, just saying. Uh... may I ask what your looking for? I'm curious now!
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Post by sp0ngebob on Nov 21, 2014 11:37:33 GMT -5
I want to see the slugs and the combustion chamber. just to get an idea of how these motors wear. i have 280K on mine and i THINK its the original block, head and slugs.
just trying to get a feel. if theres something weird going on ill see it. I want to look at things like ring lands, skirt length etc.
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Post by Mato393 on Nov 23, 2014 6:20:13 GMT -5
I think this is the trans mount: You can see it is broken... I will need to fix it or make some new one... I am painting that engine holder with green paint because green things can't hurt you I really feel much safer now!
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