Yesterday I bought the EF12 stock carb to put on the EF10. Now since the EF10 is much simpler than the EF12 configuration, I have to do the following:
1. I have to deal with removal/deletion of lots of vacuum lines. 2. I have to connect the carb without ECM since the EF10 has no computer. 3. I got to make this carb work since it's in a very very good condition. All genuine, complete and non-tampered
I want expert advice on how to execute this project considering a simplification of the EF12 Hitachi DFC-328. I don't need to comply with strict emission standards so need the basic operation out of this carb. Need help in which port to use and which to plug.
Note: The EF10 dizzy has a single dashpot and EF12 uses double dashpot dizzy. Also EF10 doesn't have all the fancy sensors, not even O2.
Last Edit: Oct 26, 2014 11:50:58 GMT -5 by saqib777
Well, I did manage to install the EF12 carb on it. Had a great test run but on the way back the car felt choked, performance simply gone. In fact it was hard to keep it running.
Returned back, let it sit for a while, started again and it seemed fine.
Findings to far: The startup is very uncertain, sometimes starts right up, sometimes too much cranking and sometimes not at all. There's no unburnt smell or any black smoke at the tail pipe but still fuel gauge is sinking fast. No apparent leaks. Have sprayed carb cleaner excessively and yes, lot of carbon exhausted but still no change in the performance.
By the way, I only swapped to an EF12 carb because most of the members are more used to it than the smaller EF10 carb.
Guys, need a little help here. It's my daily ride to work so can't let it sit like this.
Been taking pictures to post later on, but since I'm putting a ECU controlled carb on a non-ECU car, I need to handle the duty solenoid as well. I read here that it should ideally read 40ohms on resistance, but mine seems shot. It's just dead.
Questions: How to verify if the duty solenoid is indeed faulty. Any chance of repairing it? I'm okay with electrics. What would be the worst impact of not having a working duty solenoid in the carb?
By the way, is there any moving part outside the solenoid? The valve would be inside right? Can we check if there's some sort of jam in it?
Yeah! I settled for this one with a faulty duty solenoid, but since I don't have an ECM on this EF10 of mine, it wouldn't have been of any useful to me. So far happy with the swap. Thinking about fabricating new gaskets if/when I get to pull it apart ever again...
Post by certimafied on Jan 10, 2015 10:16:56 GMT -5
Hey saqib777 I have some input for you but ill have to say first I don't really know these carbs at all but I do know carburetors in general. You said the engine felt like it was being choked out and didnt want to run, the first thing to consider is that the carb from the ef12 is made to deliver a little more fuel from the beginning than the ef10 carb because of the difference in engine displacement. This could probably be fixed with jetting , you may be able to swap jets from the ef10 to the ef12 carb not sure at all just a thought. You have to consider that in your fuel consumption too, but also while it is apart you should check your float level and condition, be sure it hasnt soaked up some gas, and your needle and seat condition, if the fuel level is getting too high it will cause a choked out situation, a fuel pump that is putting out too much pressure will overcome a good needle and seat with good float and float level too. also check you gasket condition. Now lets just say you just put the carb back on the way you had it, when you turned on the ignition does your auto choke wire have any power, maybe for some reason the choke wasnt actually coming off because it wasnt getting the power it needed to heat the spring inside the mechanism. Lets get that little justy back on the road.
My Justy is on the road for the past 2 months after the swap. It's my daily ride to work so can't keep it off the road anyway
Initially I did have the power to choke issue, the choke was operating on ambient temperatures only. I didn't even notice it till the weather turned cold. So I wired it properly and it's working pretty fine since then. I was also thinking about installing smaller jets as were in the EF10 carb, but I guess it won't make any huge difference. What I'm really concerned about is the secondary port not opening properly. Means, if I floor it, it just swallows too much fuel but not much air. So I guess the secondary vacuum enabled port on this carb is either not opening or I have a serious vacuum leak somewhere.
My Justy did heat up a few days before the swap and I suspect Head Gasket or intake gasket. There's a hissing sound as well, but I'm not sure where exactly is it coming from. It feels the loudest at intake header. The carb is bolted on perfectly.
I'm also much satisfied with overall performance of the carb with no duty solenoid or ECM. Yes, it's still not truely economical but without an ECM, I don't think I can get anymore out of it.
As for the carb internals, the float, seat, valve & all are in a very good shape. It's pretty new in there. Will replace the carb gasket the next time I open it up.
Post by certimafied on Jan 12, 2015 20:10:31 GMT -5
No problem man I'm glad to hear its working out for you. I'm also interested to hear that carb worked on your ef10. I have a carbed ef12 with a weber instead of the stock unit. It ran great when it was together. I'm in the middle of a deep engine rebuild right now. Keep us posted on any progress im interested to hear.
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