|
Post by tmebus on Sept 13, 2014 15:17:29 GMT -5
Hello Justy folks
i am changing out the chain and tensioner on my 90 EF12 and am down to the chain. its very loose but i can't get it off. the crank sprocket and the one on the right that drives the water pump are keyed, am i safe in assuming those can be pulled with a puller to get the chain and tensioner off? also, where on the tensioner do i measure to determine if its a 6.5 or 7.5 mm tensioner?
thanks tyler
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Sept 14, 2014 11:56:28 GMT -5
You have to either pull the sprocket off the crankshaft (very risky, it could break. make sure you have an extra before you do this) or unbolt the main bearings so the crank comes down. You can not unbolt the main caps if your car has an automatic. This 6.5mm and 7.5mm question has been asked a thousand times. Read my thread here and it may answer some questions. Terry
|
|
|
Post by tmebus on Sept 14, 2014 16:34:28 GMT -5
Thanks Terry.
i was afraid of that, but i rented a puller and am going to try anyway unles you have a trick for getting old chain off. i do have back-ups if i break a sprocket. i plan to soak it well with WD40 or similar, maybe even put some heat to it.
hey another question, i am pulling the motor from my 90 gl 4wd 5spd to put this motor into. for the front cv joints, what is the trick on these? once i pop out the roll pins, do they simply slide out or is there something else to make removal easier?
appreciate your help, tyler
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Sept 14, 2014 19:26:26 GMT -5
Once the roll pin is out the axle just slides off. It might be a little stuck if it hasn't moved in a while but nothing major.
Be careful with the heat as the main bearing cap is right there.
Terry
|
|
|
Post by tmebus on Sept 15, 2014 11:41:17 GMT -5
Thanks again Terry.
i tried with the puller and no luck. i decided to stand down on trying to pull the sprockets and will take the long route by dropping the crankshaft, what a pain. also, thanks on the CV joints.
i did read your article on the chain and tensioners, white vs blue. How id the new chain with blue tensioner work out. did it seam tight or ok?
tyler
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Sept 15, 2014 17:36:34 GMT -5
Seemed fine, not over tight. My engine is at 80,000km and no rattles.
Terry
|
|
|
Post by tmebus on Nov 19, 2014 15:13:05 GMT -5
Hi Terry
i did finally get the puller to work, it took about 3 days of squirting with wd, adding a couple turns to the puller, then waiting. It finally broke free so now i am going to replace the chain and tensioner (i went with the white since that is stock) and begin building the motor back up for the install. would you recommend i use a gasket sealer (like a permatex black) when putting the front plate back on, or just torque down the gasket dry? And, as far as packing the oil pump with vasolene, how much?
thanks, tyler
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Nov 19, 2014 23:23:20 GMT -5
Do not use silicone! My god man. You will wreck stuff.
You need to get anaerobic flange sealant. It sounds complex, but it is designed to mate two perfectly flat pieces. Any excess will wash away with the oil.
Terry
|
|
|
Post by tmebus on Nov 20, 2014 17:47:43 GMT -5
thanks, i don't want to wreck stuff! (the black sealant was a recommendation from a parts house whom i bought the front cover gasket from)
what about the oil pump, how much vasolene to prime it?
thanks, tyler
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Nov 21, 2014 0:16:24 GMT -5
My bad. I thought you meant sealer for the chain guide. You can use RTV on the front cover, but if everything looks good the gasket should be fine.
Lots of vaseline, pack it pretty good.
Terry
|
|
|
Post by Mato393 on Nov 23, 2014 12:14:49 GMT -5
I just get this crazy idea: What about throw chain guide away and put there shorter chain? Does someone ever try it? (or just think about it?) But than you will need opened chain (I think oem is closed) ... But one Libero owner says me the chain is compatible with Škoda Fabia 1.2 HTP timing chain and it just need to be shorted for Justy but I do not know if there is opened available...
|
|
|
Post by madmatt on Nov 24, 2014 18:05:47 GMT -5
mato
the chain is lubed as it passes over the tensioner. there is an oil gallery in the back of it...
|
|
|
Post by Mato393 on Nov 25, 2014 12:45:01 GMT -5
OK and what about remove away some plastic and aluminum that is not needed? I think there will be good oil channels. It will save lot of money if it work like that.
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Nov 25, 2014 23:41:35 GMT -5
Or eliminate the balance shaft, plug up the front cover and run a chain from the crank to the oil pump drive and use an electric waterpump You could even invent a oiler for the chain to run off the pump and block the chain guide supply completely. Anything is possible! Terry
|
|
|
Post by Mato393 on Nov 26, 2014 13:08:24 GMT -5
Or eliminate the balance shaft, plug up the front cover and run a chain from the crank to the oil pump drive and use an electric waterpump You could even invent a oiler for the chain to run off the pump and block the chain guide supply completely. Anything is possible! Terry Or electric water and oil pumps... But this will not be cheap...
|
|
|
Post by Armageddous on Nov 26, 2014 23:12:29 GMT -5
Honestly I bet the Justy engine could cool through convection. Mine barely heats(heated) up (when I still drove it).
Terry
|
|