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Post by slomojusty on Jul 23, 2014 1:17:43 GMT -5
When my car is cold the idle is super low, and very rough. It usually won't start the first few times. But when the car is warm it runs like a top. I have recently put new plugs, filter, and did a valve adjustment.
Is this the way of the Justy? Are they grumpy when they're cold?
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Post by Armageddous on Jul 23, 2014 10:05:50 GMT -5
Next time it's cold, pull the top off of the air cleaner, push the gas pedal and see if the choke closes (The flap over top of the main port). It's probably a broken auto-choke spring, which is fairly common.
Terry
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Post by slomojusty on Jul 23, 2014 20:48:43 GMT -5
Terry, I'm not sure if I know what you're referring to. Is the "flap over the main port" the thing that looks like a butterfly valve to the right of the divider?
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Post by Armageddous on Jul 23, 2014 21:34:34 GMT -5
Yes that is the choke plate. If you press the accelerator with the engine cold, it should set that choke to block the port. This bumps up the idle and make the engine run rich my restricting the air, which is what it needs in cold starts.
If the engine was cold and you pressed the accelerator before taking that picture, your choke is not working. The Justy carb uses an electric choke which is essentially a coil spring that expands and contracts with temperature. The default position for the choke is OFF, when the spring is cold it puts the choke ON. Therefor, when the spring breaks, the choke is OFF.
You will need to repair the choke spring or convert it to manual choke to fix it.
Terry
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Post by slomojusty on Jul 23, 2014 22:51:30 GMT -5
I don't have any idea how to repair that spring or convert to a manual choke. Do you?
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Post by Armageddous on Jul 23, 2014 23:49:01 GMT -5
It's a bit of work either way. The choke spring assembly is held on by rivets. Drill them out, remove the assembly and look inside at the spring. You'll probably see the end of it broken off. If you're careful you can bend another tab in the spring. The idea is you need the spring to be able to pull on the choke lever in order to engage it.
The optional idea of a manual choke involves buying the choke and using the supplied hardware to attach it to your carb.
Terry
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Post by slomojusty on Aug 16, 2014 0:27:36 GMT -5
I took the auto choke apart, and saw that the spring was intact. I can't find too much info on how the auto choke works, but I was able to move the butterfly open and closed only once till it locked in the open position. I think that it would work just fine if it didn't get stuck. I don't know enough about carbs to know how to fix this thing, so Im thinking I might just convert to a manual choke. Is there any one out there that has done this who can post a write up, or at least tell me what to do with all of the vacuum hoses?
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Post by Armageddous on Aug 17, 2014 18:19:08 GMT -5
The choke getting stuck in the open position is normal if the choke is heated up. If the choke is cold the spring should be forcing the choke closed. Did you notice the spring had a hook on the end, that was supposed to grab the choke lever?
Also the choke is adjustable, you can turn the housing to apply more and less pressure. Assuming the spring is contacting the choke lever properly.
Terry
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Post by slomojusty on Aug 18, 2014 22:44:42 GMT -5
Ok so I made the tab on the spring a little longer so that it engages the choke properly. Re-assembled the whole gig and gave it a test. The butterfly closed, the engine fired right up and revved up to 25k and stayed there until I hit the gas again to release the choke. This definitely helped with the rough idle at start, but I think its a little high. Do I have the auto choke too "tight"? Do I need to adjust anything else to bring it down?
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Post by Armageddous on Aug 20, 2014 10:03:30 GMT -5
You can try backing off the choke by turning that housing for less spring pressure but you will likely also have to adjust the fast idle screw. It is near the base the of carb and engages the choke high idle lever. If you look at the base of the carb and engage/disengage the choke you will be able to see how the fast idle works. Yea, 2500 is a little high. Shoot for around 1200 - 1500. Terry
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2014 22:28:02 GMT -5
Before you touch the fast idle screw, you should try to adjust the idle down by bending the pawl in the choke housing. The pawl is the little lever that contacts the choke spring. The fast idle screw should really only be adjusted as a last resort because it is very difficult to dial back in to spec. Bending the pawl is actually listed in the Subaru Factory Service Manual. The part you bend is just the little horizontal part that contacts the hook in the spring. It only takes a little bit of bending to make a big difference in rpms. Essentially you want to bend it (up, down, back or forth) so the choke butterfly does not close as much...to state the obvious.
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Post by Armageddous on Aug 21, 2014 9:59:09 GMT -5
Yea, do that. (I really shouldn't respond to carb threads as I've been injected for years ) Terry
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