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Post by sblast25 on Jun 13, 2014 19:46:28 GMT -5
She runs and drives fine, but when I'm driving she randomly cuts out then suddenly regains power. The engine light comes on for a second, then goes away.
I'm thinking its a fuel pump issue
any thoughts on what or how to find out what might be causing this?
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 14, 2014 0:13:34 GMT -5
Check the wires to your distributor. If it was a fuel issue the check engine light would likely not come on.
Terry
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Post by sblast25 on Jun 15, 2014 3:56:04 GMT -5
I know its not from the distributor, i thought it was, since i had some wires already spliced together. I replaced the splice... it didn't fix anything
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 15, 2014 10:33:37 GMT -5
Is it EFI or carb?
Does your tach drop to 0 or stay with the engine speed?
Terry
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Post by sblast25 on Jun 16, 2014 2:06:59 GMT -5
EFI 1990 4x4 MT
The RPMs drop, but not to zero. It feels like i'm running out of gas kinda. Its like a hiccup.
I tried reading the self-test memory, but it was clean.
I'm going to pressure wash the engine compartment and and re plug some connectors, i'm starting to feel like to is ether fulepump/relay issue. or some connection is shorting out randomly
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 16, 2014 22:38:20 GMT -5
Yea, that does sound more like fuel. If it were a MAP sensor the computer would probably see the error. If the distributor is known-good the only thing I could suggest is tapping in to the O2 sensor to see if the exhaust is lean when it cuts out.
Terry
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jun 24, 2014 10:47:02 GMT -5
this is a classic misfire symptom. one think that happens (rare but happens) is if a valve retainer is cracked, the car will occasionally flicker a CEL when it misfires. this all assumes we have a knock sensor. i have a carbed car so my knock sensor is my ears.
do any other lights come on when this happens? or is it the CEL only. what im getting at is, does the dash light up like it does when you go to start it in the morning?
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Post by Loki on Jun 26, 2014 13:33:33 GMT -5
Dear sblast25,
I am having the 'EXACT' same problem!
I have a '92, FWD, Carb, 5speed, and I too have been experiencing the occasional illumination of the "check engine" light followed by a momentary loss of power. Luckily it only lasts a second or two, and then everything is back to normal, and the car returns to running fine. I do not have a tach gauge to monitor engine RPM, but it sounds and feels like RPM is dropping when this error happens. I also notice that this only tends to happen during deceleration (off the gas) rather than acceleration (on the gas).
I have not yet checked my distributor, I was planning on replacing the rotor and cap, as they are due for replacement anyways.
I have not yet checked my self-test memory, perhaps there is a code which gives some clues... (I'll check tonight).
I look forward to finding out what this could be (hopefully not a cracked valve retainer)
Let's figure this out.
Cheers, Loki.
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 26, 2014 21:22:50 GMT -5
That's the thing, the Justy computer does not detect misfires, and there is no knock sensor. The CEL only comes on when a hard fault is detected, like a shorted or failed sensor, or something is really weird like a funky MAP sensor etc.
I'm thinking maybe a bad main ground connection at the battery or block that is agitated when the engine is rocking.
But I still think distributor.
Terry
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Post by sp0ngebob on Jun 30, 2014 15:59:44 GMT -5
I did have something similar to this in an old corolla i pulled the head off of.
It turned out to be a loose ground at the engine from the main harness. incidentally it was the ECU ground so it caused all kinds of havoc until i found it. snugged it down, problems all vanished
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Post by Loki on Jul 10, 2014 18:58:54 GMT -5
!UPDATE!
Okay, I have now gone though and examined the status of the distributor on my car. I found that the distributor rotor was missing the screw that holds it on! Was was surprised that it would run/operate with out this. With the screw missing the rotor could rock back-and-forth just a little bit and that was probably messing up the timing.
New Rotor this time with a hold down screw, new distributor cap, and now it's running much more strongly. I have not had a repeat "CHECK ENGINE" light come on since I did this repair. I hope this helps all the other Justy-freaks.
Cheers, Loki.
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