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Post by kcswimrac on Jul 15, 2015 21:38:05 GMT -5
I might have to try the pins, if i cant get that to work i could revert back to welding it. And I like the idea of the bearing surface of the pump cover, I might have to try them both.
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Post by madmatt on Jul 16, 2015 1:55:43 GMT -5
my 2 cents is the added depth of the rotors will help stop the walking... oh yeah, and i doubt you'll wait til 20k to change your oil so... remember you have to fit this all behind the crank pulley. i have a justyjuggler front cover. i don't think you could fit more rotor in and still clear the pulley with it. of course you could step the pulley out, but it's already close to the frame rail. i like the pin idea too.
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Post by kcswimrac on Sept 29, 2015 22:08:01 GMT -5
Alright.. so Dusty's doesn't looking like it's coming back up anytime soon. So does anyone know what the stock diameter of the connecting rod bore and engine cylinder bore are supposed to be? Thanks!!!
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Post by madmatt on Sept 30, 2015 10:01:48 GMT -5
Argh...
I have it written down... At home, 8 hour flight away for a year. Sorry.
Looking through earthbounding's thread, and going from memory, the rod big ends are to be 45.00mm.
I can't recall the actual stock bore.
We really need to replace Dusty's spec page, by posting this stuff on a page here...
How's the build going?
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Post by kcswimrac on Sept 30, 2015 14:09:44 GMT -5
It has slowed down a bit, I'm back in school, but I'm just trying to continuously take little steps forward on it. Last year I said I would have the justy runing by the time the snow sticks to the ground here.. well here's round two since the snow was pitiful here last year.
We really do need a specs page on here. I was trying to find the specs in the internet archive but apparently that page wasn't worth backing up. lol
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Post by kcswimrac on Sept 30, 2015 14:13:04 GMT -5
Also.. I'm still trying to find a source for a chain guide, any suggestions? Dealer told me they can't even get it..
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Post by madmatt on Sept 30, 2015 17:46:43 GMT -5
Also.. I'm still trying to find a source for a chain guide, any suggestions? Dealer told me they can't even get it.. Well... I understand, I had similar luck building the now "broken block 2" motor... And I um, well, I, ah, used a high quality epoxy! Not sure how well it would hold up long term, but it looked good after maybe 100 hours run time (it lasted longer then the rod bearings :0 )
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Post by earthbounding on Oct 3, 2015 5:09:59 GMT -5
just got a new chain guide in from kelly subaru yesterday (kelly subaru Chattanooga, TN , Phone #: 1-423-490-0181 web: parts.kellysubaru.com ). Try Checking with other dealers too, they all seem to have different prices and NLA parts
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Post by kcswimrac on Oct 4, 2015 19:52:13 GMT -5
Awesome, thank you, I finally found one.
New question, does anyone happen to have a diagram of the engine block oil passages? I've got to many ideas rolling around in my head.. lol
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Post by kcswimrac on Oct 6, 2015 21:43:37 GMT -5
Anyone know the diameter of the bearing journals on the crankshaft for the connecting rods? Measuring mine I seem like i might be in need of a regrind, there's about a 0.010" out of round on them, not sure what is acceptable..?
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Post by kcswimrac on Oct 7, 2015 21:52:22 GMT -5
More issues.. I finally found the crankshaft journal diameters on All Data, remeasured mine, and unfortunately it seems that the connecting rod journal is supposed to be 1.6531-1.6535" in stock form and in the worst spots i'm worn right down to about .017" under spec, which only leave 3 thousands or so to be ground down to 0.020" under diameter bearings. seems pretty close to me..
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Post by madmatt on Oct 9, 2015 17:19:56 GMT -5
IIeee... That is close, and any scoring is likely to be at the .020... Pop can shims, spray it or ? New crank? Has the machine shop seen it? offset grind?
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Post by kcswimrac on Oct 12, 2015 23:17:26 GMT -5
Well I broke out the micrometers to check journal diameters.. looks like i'm ot on the hunt for a new crank.. the worst out of round was 0.0195" and right at the .020" under dimension.. Junk yard hunts.. Yay!!
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Post by kcswimrac on Oct 19, 2015 23:08:24 GMT -5
Good news!! I found one in the local junkyard! I micro-metered it all out and the crank shows no major signs of wear and is within the AllData spec of 1.6525"-1.6529" for the mains and 1.6531"-1.6535" for the rods and the most out of round is only .0007" within the .0012" acceptable.
The motor I pulled it from looked nice, it had a new water pump, new chain and guide, new oil pump, and the cylinders didn't even have any carbon build up! It looks like it was recently rebuilt and somewhere along the lines they gave up.. I think i'm in luck!!! (:
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Post by kcswimrac on Nov 16, 2015 20:45:23 GMT -5
Well I got her running again! She's doing well, but she's a tad bit cold. Does anyone have an extra efi thermostat and housing, and would be willing to sell/ship it to Oregon, US? lol
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Post by kcswimrac on Nov 21, 2015 21:46:26 GMT -5
Well figure i'm gonna go with the double thermostat housing method and put it inline with the lower radiator hose. Also i'm starting another step on the justy!!
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Post by jasin on Dec 27, 2016 16:33:34 GMT -5
Have you already done the oil pump modification? I am considering many different solutions of oil problem in justy, as i have turbo charger and wanted to add oil cooler, stock oil pump is not suffficient. Now i am tginking seriously about making a double oil pump from two inner and outer rotors. I want to make a new longer shaft with two inner rotors. I have to make a "case" for the second outer rotors. Inner rotors will be connected probably with pins, the same outer rotors. The next problem is modification of cranckpulley and longer screw witch i guess is m12x1.25 so not very typical also i need to move alternator.
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Post by jasin on Dec 27, 2016 16:39:10 GMT -5
And one more idea, maybe the easiest way is to chenge the oil pump sprocket to smaller one which would cause faster oil pump sinning. Of course chain has to be changed also
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Post by gearheadeh on Dec 27, 2016 22:51:32 GMT -5
Have you already done the oil pump modification? I am considering many different solutions of oil problem in justy, as i have turbo charger and wanted to add oil cooler, stock oil pump is not suffficient. Now i am tginking seriously about making a double oil pump from two inner and outer rotors. I want to make a new longer shaft with two inner rotors. I have to make a "case" for the second outer rotors. Inner rotors will be connected probably with pins, the same outer rotors. The next problem is modification of cranckpulley and longer screw witch i guess is m12x1.25 so not very typical also i need to move alternator. You need to look at how the main pulley on the engine is in the way, need a smaller diameter pulley.
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Post by jasin on Dec 28, 2016 2:19:00 GMT -5
yes, you can either get a smaller pulley or move it from the engine towards the car frame approx 15mm
what about the idea of leaving stock oil pump but rev it higher by changing chain sprocket to smaller one (that would probably need shortening chain and modification of chain guide) waiting for you comments
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