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Post by austing on Mar 21, 2014 14:50:23 GMT -5
I've replaced the piston rings, had the crank ground to 010 oversize- so fresh rod, and main, bearings; I'm also going to replace the balance shaft bearings, and I have already replaced the oil and water pumps.
So what is the proper technique for breaking this engine in?
Thanks
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Post by blacklight on Mar 21, 2014 17:24:55 GMT -5
I've replaced the piston rings, had the crank ground to 010 oversize- so fresh rod, and main, bearings; I'm also going to replace the balance shaft bearings, and I have already replaced the oil and water pumps. So what is the proper technique for breaking this engine in? Thanks Use engine block heater if applicable, never rev over 3500-4000 RPM, replace oil and filter after 500 (Metric) miles. I think that should do it.
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Post by gearheadeh on Mar 21, 2014 18:37:38 GMT -5
I've replaced the piston rings, had the crank ground to 010 oversize- so fresh rod, and main, bearings; I'm also going to replace the balance shaft bearings, and I have already replaced the oil and water pumps. So what is the proper technique for breaking this engine in? Thanks Use engine block heater if applicable, never rev over 3500-4000 RPM, replace oil and filter after 500 (Metric) miles. I think that should do it. This is excellent advice to pre warm the engine with an engine block heater. I would have fresh Dino based oil (Not synthetic oil) and new filter on. If you are fortunate to have an oil cooler plumbed in, it might be possible to pre load the oil system with some pressure at the first second of first start. The important thing is to try to NOT start the car the first time and let it idle while you check for leaks of coolant or oil before driving. Better if you can verify that there is no leaks first. Then with everything prepped and ready for first flight. Then have a planned route that will represent what it would be like if you were on a not so high speed closed track road race track. In other words, go out and drive it like you stole it. Keep the revs between 1000 and I would say 5000 as the EF12 can handle revs as high as 7500 rpm. Drive with the throttle position in 1 of 2 positions, all the way on or all the way off. Accelerate very hard then brake so that you can accelerate hard again. The old fashioned way of being GENTLE and holding it at a constant fairly low rpm for sustained periods has been proven to not work with modern piston rings. For my proof I provide this article from a very reputable source: www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Post by austing on Mar 21, 2014 18:53:36 GMT -5
Alright, so for how long do you recommend I conduct this break in drive?
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Post by gearheadeh on Mar 21, 2014 21:28:02 GMT -5
Alright, so for how long do you recommend I conduct this break in drive? Well to answer your question I'm simply going to copy and paste the instructions found in the link I posted previously: www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmOn the Street: Warm the engine up completely: Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want anyone to get hit from behind !! The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more and run it through the gears ! Be Safe On The Street ! Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process. On the Racetrack: Warm the engine up completely: Do one easy lap to warm up your tires. Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks or any safety problems. Take a normal 15 minute practice session and check the water temperature occasionally. The racetrack is the perfect environment to break in an engine !! The combination of acceleration and deceleration is just the ticket for sealing the rings. Go For It !!
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Post by austing on Mar 21, 2014 22:35:59 GMT -5
Alright, so you're saying that for the first 200 miles I need to either have the pedal all the way to the floor, or not at all?
Here is my plan: run hard as specified for the first 20 miles, change oil and filter -not sure if I'm supposed to keep running it hard after this point- and then change again at 500 miles
How can I tell when the break in is complete?
Thanks
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Post by gearheadeh on Mar 21, 2014 23:50:21 GMT -5
There you go, you got it right about the oil changes, after the 500 mile you can go ahead and put in the synthetic if you want. The point is to run it real hard for the first 20 or so miles, then open it up once in awhile till you get the 500 in. that is it, it should last longer because the rings are sealing better, and that means that it will also make more power.
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Post by austing on Mar 22, 2014 22:43:33 GMT -5
Should I down shift through the gears as I slow down?
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 23, 2014 1:48:43 GMT -5
Downshifting is fine. You have to imagine the piston rings flexing back and forth as you load and unload the engine. This is the motion that seats them uniformly. I'm assuming you put in chromoly rings, as I have never seen cast for an EF12. They seat very quickly, if done properly, I would say within 150miles. After that you do not need to drive like a maniac anymore as normal driving should be fine.
You will also notice at your first oil change it will be metallic as your second will not. Do not let the engine starve of oil, over heat, have an improper adjusted valve, misfire, etc.
Terry
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Post by austing on Mar 23, 2014 11:30:53 GMT -5
I used Hastings rings, not sure what they're made of
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Post by austing on Mar 25, 2014 20:27:46 GMT -5
Alright, thanks for the help folks, I got the engine in yesterday, and did about 70 miles (hard for the first 20, changed oil and filter, and opened it up all the way every once and awhile since)
Does anyone know what might cause a tapping sound from the head? I'm going to check the valve clearances again tomorrow, I did it on the bench, but I think it's best to check again
Also, will not having the o2 sensor attached cause a check engine light, or effect performance?
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 29, 2014 20:47:33 GMT -5
I would try adjusting the valves.. I did mine on the bench, and they were off by a mile when I put my motor in. I thought I had a bad bearing in my brand new motor. Yes an unplugged O2 sensor will trip the light and affect performance, especially if the O2 wire is receiving any interference. Terry
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Post by austing on Mar 30, 2014 1:02:15 GMT -5
Yep, I didn't update, but when I checked the valve clearances they were hugely off. After I adjusted them it took care of the tapping (and saved the machine shop that ground my crankshaft an earful)
I'm about 400 miles into the break in now, plan to switch to synthetic in the next couple of hundred miles.
But I believe my distributor has gone bad; the engine would idle kind of rough and I would have to press the pedal all of the way to the floor to get it to accelerate, and would buck for a second before speeding up. But now it won't drive at all, I had to get towed home, it will idle if I tap the gas, but will bog out if I give it much gas- seems pretty much exactly like a bad distributor to me
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 30, 2014 11:49:22 GMT -5
Is your car EFI or carb? If it's EFI that almost sounds like fuel pressure to me, unless of course it's belching black smoke.
Terry
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Post by austing on Mar 30, 2014 13:51:12 GMT -5
It is an '88, so it is carbureted.
The problem became progressively worse, and the symptoms are identical to distributor failure that I've experienced in other cars
I was lucky enough to find an advance locally that actually had one of these distributors in stock. So after I pick it up later today I'll report back, hopefully saying that it fixed the problem
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Post by austing on Mar 31, 2014 12:40:20 GMT -5
Alright, so I replaced the distributor with a new reman, and the problem persists.
It will idle fine, but if I try to accelerate it bogs down and back fires from the carb sometimes
I'm pretty much stumped, any help is greatly appreciated.
I'm going to try replacing the spark plug wires
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Post by gearheadeh on Mar 31, 2014 14:42:16 GMT -5
Is your car EFI or carb? If it's EFI that almost sounds like fuel pressure to me, unless of course it's belching black smoke. Terry Yah- AHH, Like what he said!
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Post by austing on Mar 31, 2014 16:24:48 GMT -5
But it's not efi, it's an '88 carbureted justy
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 31, 2014 22:36:38 GMT -5
It still could be fuel pressure even with a carb, although they only run about 3 psi from the pump to the carb, if your carb is starving for fuel it will cause that condition.
Firing out the carb could be a timing issue, which could be something in the timing belt. Case in point, I had a car at work with a broken timing belt tensioner and the cam out of phase. Idle'd like a champ but couldn't get out of it's own way down the road.
I'm assuming you set the timing with the new distributor, is it turned much further than the old one?
Change the fuel filter, just do it.
Terry
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Post by austing on Apr 1, 2014 0:11:59 GMT -5
The new distributor is in the same position as the old one, it is turned all the way toward the firewall
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