After using my justy for a while now, I've noticed a few issues.
1. Rear suspension bushing is worn, so I get a "knock" when I run over short\hard bumps in the road.
2. Clutch although better then when I first got the car, needs replacing.
3. Engine feels weak. Doesn't really pull in any other gear than 1st, it will misfire\poof a bit when holding high revs suggesting a problem with spark/carburetor. But I don't have a real comparison either.
4. 4x4 works great, I think the weight balance of the car is close to ideal, if I'm in 1st or 2nd and I either do a "Clutch out" or just floor the gas while turning, the ass end goes out in gentle easily controlled slides It's one of the most predictable 4x4's I've driven.
5. I tried cleaning the carburetor without opening it, by using CRC carburetor cleaner.. No real change. Sometimes, if it idles in 1st/2nd gear, and I hit the gas, it will die for about a second before coming alive, if I pull the choke out, to the point were the lamp in the dash comes on, it feels a lot better..
I am pretty sure I have the best sounding Justy in Norway now.... Car stereo wise.
I've been an Auto-Audiophile freak for 12 years. I know good sound when I hear it.
It's unbelievable clean sounding NO vibrations from any body panels... I went nuts with noise killing asphalt plates...
Probably close to 20 kg of sound insulation, rear hatch, rear quarter panels, roof, doors... all covered with 3mm asphalt plates.
The bass is incredible deep and really punchy, absolutely unbelievable considering the size of the amp and the alternator. .
Car stereo now consists of:
Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X8500BT
Front door: About 2 square meters of STP sound proofing in each door. Speakers: Ground Zero - Radioactive 5.25" shallow mount coaxial speakers 60w RMS\100w max GZRF 13FXII Temporeraly powered by the head unit.
Rear speakers: Pioneer 6x9" TS-A6965R in boxes, 60w rms
1. Front speakers not on amp, but still sounds a million bucks because the doors are properly sound proofed, and the speakers mounted properly. 2. Rear speakers cheap, but still sounds a million bucks because in their own MDF enclosures + on amp.
On order: Massive audio N3 monoblock, puts out 700W @ 2 ohms, perfect for the two kicker 10"'s. When it arrives I will put the front speakers on the same amp as the rear ones.
But I can't have the stock horn button with such a nice horn, now can I ? So I ordered myself a new MOMO (I THINK it's conterfeit due to the price) steering wheel:
35$ including shipping: dx.com/p/universal-13-pu-aluminum-car-steering-wheel-set-black-blue-164232... The steering wheel will go nicely with the blue dash lights\switches\voltmeter+ Bucket seats I've got planed. I've also ordered a Momo steering wheel hub adapter for subaru, hopefully it fit's the Justy as well as the Legacy and Impreza... The above mentioned Voltmeter:
4.something $ from www.dx.com It's going on the "flat" surface just above the glove box.
I just noticed the dark season starting outside... So.... Reversing lights:
Ok I've got a few updates... I got the steering wheel adapter from Demon Tweeks today, IT FITS !!!!
So now I got an Genuine all leather one from Momo, and it feels like oh.....
I also got a 4 fuse blade type fuse holder, I just soldered 4 x 6mm wires to each input, and then I soldered those to a single 6mm wire that will run directly to the battery via a 30a fuse. I plan on using 3 of those fuse slots, so the 4'th is a spare..
One is going directly to the radio, the monitor for my new backup camera and a voltmeter. I will also remove the entire existing harness for the radio at the same time. put in a new ground, and wire from the ignition switch..
The second gets a bit more complicated, it's eventually going to power my new LED bar on the roof via two switches and a relay.
I plan on having the relay controlled with the high beam output, so when one of the switches are on, it powers the relay and turns on the led bar when I switch on the car's high beams.
The second switch will be connected directly to the fuse and the LED bar, so I can turn it on without using the high beams or having the ignition switch on. The LED bar is rated at 72w that equals to about 6a, and the switch is rated at 16a, so it should be fine. I do this to circumvent Norwegian law limiting how much light you can have by calling it a work light in stead of an extra set of high beams..
The 3'rd is going to power the new LED back-up lights directly without a relay, those will be mounted in the rear bumper. I will of course also connect them directly to the actual backup lights of the car.
Additionally I have ordered a H4 25w LED conversion kit, that looks absolutely amazing, at least in the you tube videos I've seen.
I live in a place with something called the dark season, and we're in it, that means no direct sunlight 24 hours a day, so light is a big thing.....
As I'll have to provide wiring to the new backup lights, eh.... "Work lights" I think I mean, I'm going to connect the front door speakers to my 4 channel pioneer amp, with a new phono cable, and some high end speaker wire. By the way, the new monoblock is awesome, tiny and neat looking in it's brushed aluminum chassis, not to mention, it packs a punch too...
I have already installed the new backup camera in it's hole, I just have to connect it to power, It will be connected directly to the license plate light with a couple of ferrite's, as it's close to the camera, and it will then turn it on\off with the lights of the car. I like to be able to use the backup camera without actually having the car in reverse, and I think that's the best solution. I've already installed a video cable for the camera under the floor mats, but I think I'll move the video cable to the roof of the car in stead and have it come down the right A pillar along with the wire from the LED bar, since the wire for the camera will have to come out through the bushings for the rear window defroster I might as well just keep it along the roof.
I am really looking forwards to start working on these minor "mods" tomorrow, I got a new soldering station, new solder, and plenty of shrink wrap... And to top it of, Jar1 here on the forum sold me an original clock for the dash so I can cover up the gaping hole I've got.
So, I finally got the engine block heater element from Defa so I could get rid of the hose heater element, the new engine block heater is rated at 550w, the old hose heater was probably around 300w, it had NO markings so I'm just guessing.
It works. That's putting it mildly, it actually keeps the hood free of snow in -10c weather, that's a lot of heat.
Well first of, mine is a 1985 EF10 carbureted version, I noticed that defa lists J10 and J12 support from 1987 and newer, I was thinking it might only work with the injection engines.
Luckily I was wrong I can comfirm that it fits a 1985 J10\ef10 engine no problem.
Normally an engine block heater is knocked into a freeze plug in the block, so I started looking... I found nothing.
So I read the above PDF, and saw it was threaded, ok... Fine, So I started looking for the damned plug.. for all engines in the damned pdf the location is specified nicely, but not for the j10/j12.. only that it was on the back of the engine. To make a long story a bit shorter, I searched the interweb for a pic of an engine with a heater already installed, guess where I found such a pic? That's right, on this forum No wonder I could not find the damned thing, tucked away underneath the carburetor and just above the oil filter, it was impossible to see, even with the air filter housing removed.
Removing the plug required a 14mm hex, that I didn't have, because my collection included everything up to 25mm except 14mm... I bought one yesterday...
A bit tight, I had to use a breaker bar on the end of the ratchet to get the plug going, but once I got it loose, I got the plug out fairly easy.
To put the new heater in was a bit of a pain, I could screw it as good as flush by hand, but because I didn't have the right spanner, it takes a 30mm spanner, and the biggest I had was a 29mm I had an adjustable water pump wrench as the best tool for the job, I got it tightened after a few minutes of adjusting the wrench(did I mention that there is no room back there?)
So, new element in place, replaced the coolant, bled the air out of the engine/cooling system, and plugged it in the wall.. This thing is the real deal, at around 175$, it should be..
With temperatures down to -40c common here, aux engine heaters are a must.
Last Edit: Feb 9, 2014 16:28:53 GMT -5 by santaclaw
So I ended up just changing the rear suspension's "front" linkage arms, or trailing arms, those where 82$ a piece. It's the main, lower/rear ones that costs an arm and a leg, 483$ a side !!
That fixed the knocking sound I had from the rear., the left bushing was completely worn out, and had about 2 mm of play in it, unloaded and removed from the car !
I also changed the rear springs for new stock ones, my ride hight increased by 10 cm or thereabouts, and I got 90% of the driving comfort back.
Now I've just got the front springs to go.
I got rid of the most annoying sound ever, I could lift the gear lever about 6-7 cm straight up, and if I had the car idling, as long as the gear lever wasn't lifted off whatever it was resting on, it made a horrible squeaking/ratteling sound that was very audible both in and out of the car.
Solution ? I jammed a 1.5cm thick, 4 by 3 cm big piece of rubber underneath where there might have been rubber originally along with some silicone, anyway, it made the gear shifts about 2x better/sharper and all the noise was gone... Success !
Last Edit: Jun 3, 2014 17:49:28 GMT -5 by santaclaw
I was doing a major service on my little justy, (clutch, seals head gasket water pump, new +12v to the alternator) and I ran into a few issues.
1. They sent me the wrong damned gasket kit.
Basically, wrong seal for the water pump lid (I just used silicon gasket in stead) wrong inlet manifold gasket... Again, with no other car available to me, I resorted to the silicon gasket...
Is this for a 1.2 ?
So I didn't bother even attempting to do the head gasket, as it's probably wrong too...
What is really strange is that the waterpump came separate, and it had it's own gasket with it, and it too was the wrong type, even thought it says subaru justy 1.0 1984-1991..
Bolts for the thermostat housing broke, they where almost rusted clean off... thankfully I got them out with some wise grips.
I decided to do the engine only, and leave the gearbox in the car, turns out even though I still had to remove EVERYTHING except the driveshafts and the gear linkage, you still save a lot of labor doing it that way.
Getting the engine and gearbox mated was a piece of cake, with a 2kg ? engine and a 1 kg? gearbox ?
I am doing everything myself as usual, my friends only help with their cars
3. There was a lot of play in the chain for the balance axle, is that normal ? How much is too much ?
4. I'm all poffed out now, I've been working on it for 11 hours straight now, no food, and only CocaCola Zero Just have to hook up the exhaust, and re fit the sway bar, and the support member that's directly under the engine, and 2 coolent hoses, fill it up with oil and coolent and install the battery, and it should be good to go.
Last Edit: Jul 19, 2014 13:40:03 GMT -5 by santaclaw
deegore: I slept in my 2 door driving from AZ to MN. Some front seats that fold flat would be necessary to really get comfortable.
Dec 10, 2017 17:59:40 GMT -5
marisa_: i'm thinking of buying an 88 justy fwd tomorrow. it's super clean looking, 68000 mi. i don't really know what i'm getting myself into though.
Dec 29, 2017 16:26:30 GMT -5
justytrudeau: FWD means you don’t have to worry about any problems that can come up with the AWD system. AWD is clutch in snowier climates, but the pre 90’s models have carbeuraters instead of being fuel injected. Carbs can cause some issues in the winter time.
Jan 14, 2018 15:47:29 GMT -5
justytrudeau: Anyone put LED's in their instrumental panel? I have to remove the whole dash to get to 'em, figured it'd put off having to do it again by a few years.
Jan 23, 2018 22:18:20 GMT -5
justytrudeau: Are they interchangeable?
Jan 23, 2018 22:18:34 GMT -5
aberlin: make a post about it
Jan 24, 2018 8:24:53 GMT -5
Bredmirror: Can a Suzuki Gti engine fit into a Gl manual Justy?
Jan 24, 2018 8:36:48 GMT -5
aberlin: make a post ........
Jan 25, 2018 9:55:06 GMT -5
Justy1200cc: bredmirror, if you do it you would need the suzuki transmission. I think it's searchable on the forum for more details
Jan 30, 2018 22:25:04 GMT -5
bredmirror: Thats what Im planning to do. However, if the engine and the transmission won't fit then Im just gonna upgrade the stock engine and get a tubo kit for it.
Jan 31, 2018 4:28:16 GMT -5
justytrudeau: Anybody bought aftermarket center caps for their wheels?
Feb 16, 2018 1:37:50 GMT -5
Justy1200cc: I bought a pink sti badge off wish. it was pretty big and when I found a real sti the logo was even smaller than the justys
Feb 21, 2018 0:07:08 GMT -5