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Post by peter2 on Jun 23, 2007 18:56:57 GMT -5
Hey Coal, Great photos! Thanks. I notice in "Re: My engine rebuild Reply #3 on Jun 3, 2007, 1:46pm" the cylinder head, with valves, still has the intake and exhaust manifolds attached. Soon I will be replacing my head to check for a burned-through gasket, and it would simplify my life if I did not have to remove the manifolds. Would you recommend doing it the way that you did? Cheers, Peter in Victoria, BC
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Post by blackjusty on Jun 24, 2007 10:24:19 GMT -5
probably not, you have to resurface the head if you want to fix it correctly.
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Post by blackjusty on Jun 24, 2007 10:29:23 GMT -5
Hi Coal, GREAT PICTURES, I was wondering how easy it was to pull the engine out and leave the transmission in the car.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jun 24, 2007 11:09:24 GMT -5
I really have limited space to work in the garage that I have. So I started by removing as much of the engine that I could so I had a smaller profile on the engine when it was time to remove it, also to try and lighten it up as much as I could. You dont need and fancy tools but a basic tool kit will not cut it. Fot instance I have no air tools so when it came time to pull the head off I used a breaker bar for the leverage to get the bolts loose. I would recomend impact sockets because I broke the chrome 14mm socket that I was using. I originally had intentions to lift the engine out the top but it was a little heavier then I expected and wires and hoses kept getting in the way. I have a floor jack so I positioned that under the engine and was able to lower it with the floor jack and a block of wood, you can see the wood in the background in a few pictures. This was more time consuming then difficult just trying to get everything set up so you can work around it. I did it all alone but two people would be a lot easier.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jun 24, 2007 11:16:00 GMT -5
For removing the head with the manifolds attached, I would do it again it was a little heavy but I think better then trying to get those intake manifold bolts off just too much work I am not plactic man. When you get it all out you can work on getting the manifolds off, take the head in and get the work done. When you get it back bolt the manifolds back ot and reinstall the whole unit. This might be a little starnge to lift and position but I think easier and quicker in the long run.
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Post by blackjusty on Jun 26, 2007 0:33:51 GMT -5
I was wondering about the clearance there is when separating the engine from the tranny in the car. And then did you just lower it straight down?Thanks, Larry
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jun 26, 2007 1:01:10 GMT -5
If you saw me you would swear you saw a monkey @#!% a football. It was not really hard it was really ackward. The flywheel side has most the weight and that side wanted to drop down as soon as they got seperated. That is when I just used the floor jack to get it out.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 7, 2007 16:45:27 GMT -5
The center seal in the middle of the front cover, as you can see on page 2 the first and second pic. What is the best was to remove that? Any help would be great.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 7, 2007 18:30:03 GMT -5
A 22mm socket and a mallet. Thats what you need. Give it a few taps from the front side and it pops right out. Place the socket on the seal and then give it a few taps.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 13, 2007 0:25:27 GMT -5
Just a fast update all the parts have been dropped off at the machine shop for cleanup. I should have them back by the middle of next week if everything goes well.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 25, 2007 14:33:28 GMT -5
The machine shop is waiting on parts to come in. I have the order that I placed with subygal she has some very fast shipping.
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Post by blackjusty on Jul 26, 2007 10:33:53 GMT -5
So what machine work are you having done? Are you keeping it stock? How much do you think you'll have spent when the motor is finished?
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 26, 2007 11:39:00 GMT -5
All the parts that I remembered to take in are getting cleaned up, bead blasted or hot tanked. The head is getting rebuilt, a crack was found they pressure tested it and it came back good. The cylinders are getting re honed, resurface the flywheel. The pistons and connecting rods are getting checked out, I didnt notice and slop with the wrist pin but I will let them be the judge of that. I think when it all said and done it will be 600-700 dollars. I am in about 300 right now. This is getting kind of expensive but this also is including the new parts and not just the machine work. I just dont see any good reason to put it back together without putting as much new stuff as I can. I would hate to blow up because I am using old parts.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 26, 2007 11:40:35 GMT -5
I should post pics shortly but my new crank pulley is a one piece unit. my old one was a 2 piece, and it originally fell apart when I was pulling the engine apart.
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Post by SUBIEJIM on Jul 26, 2007 18:01:14 GMT -5
All the parts that I remembered to take in are getting cleaned up, bead blasted or hot tanked. The head is getting rebuilt, a crack was found they pressure tested it and it came back good. The cylinders are getting re honed, resurface the flywheel. The pistons and connecting rods are getting checked out, I didnt notice and slop with the wrist pin but I will let them be the judge of that. I think when it all said and done it will be 600-700 dollars. I am in about 300 right now. This is getting kind of expensive but this also is including the new parts and not just the machine work. I just dont see any good reason to put it back together without putting as much new stuff as I can. I would hate to blow up because I am using old parts. Coal, Where was the crack in the head? Was it a very small one between one of the intake valve seats and the exhaust valve seat at the point they are closest together. I have 2 1990 FI heads, both are cracked in this area on cyl # 2. My machinist says that they are probably OK but, I will probably have them pressure tested to be sure. Thanks for your response Jim
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Post by blackjusty on Jul 26, 2007 23:31:17 GMT -5
That is good judgement. I have had a few motors built and my machinist had me to replace and or check everything. Whatever you overlook will be what breaks usually. Those were street race engines and he also said once initially broken in and oil is changed to drive the way you will drive it all the time. Which means you don't want to baby it. Worked good for me anyway. By the way how did your balancer shaft chain look? I wonder if they get stretched or worn and then noisy.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Jul 27, 2007 0:36:20 GMT -5
I talked to the shop on the phone almost two weeks ago and I was told about the crack, I did not even bother to ask where the location is. Next time I talk to them I will ask. At the time I was more focused on them telling me that it could be welded and it would cost another 150 and my head started to spin. The balancer shaft chain looked pretty good, I am sure it had a little slack in it. I dont recall any odd noise that was generated by the engine but at the same time I had an exhaust leak and that could have covered up any noise that could be caused by a loose chain.
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Aug 13, 2007 19:09:51 GMT -5
The new inner and outer rotor. New pulley, no rubber so this one should hod togehter a bit better.
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Post by malamute on Aug 13, 2007 20:32:02 GMT -5
Hey,
Could you measure the following:
1. Outer diameter of the outer rotor 2. Outer diameter of the inner rotor (top of lobe to top of lobe) 3. Outer diameter of the inner rotor shaft 4. And if you have a pin gauge set, measure the inner rotor shaft hole of your oil pump housing.
I just wonder what they measure out new. Bronze bushing conversion data.
Matthew
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coal
Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Posts: 468
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Post by coal on Aug 13, 2007 22:23:15 GMT -5
I will get that for you. I will send the info through PM. It might take me to the weekend.
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