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Post by hippy on Mar 11, 2013 1:51:23 GMT -5
hello just looking for answers.
my 88 fwd carbed justy is running rough as in high idle hot or cold. about thirty seconds from starting the idle shoots up and stays drives relatively well a small loss of power (constantly shifting 3rd to 4th on curvy mountain roads) but not much noise. also on start up it has some small miss' here and there but it isn't constantly missing.
my brother /family mechanic/ says either my choke is stuck open or my distributor advance is fubar. on that note is their any chance in finding an electric dist. that would work for a justy
what i know it needs valve adjustment carb rebuild or cleaning vac. lines possible valves intake and exhaust and a acid cleaning.......i have a dirty justy :-)
oh and it stalled after heavy acceleration (while in wet grass/mud) did i flood it? is that possible?
help please i need anything you got even if it random tidbits about said justy all is welcome
the signature explains it all
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Post by hippy on Mar 11, 2013 16:59:52 GMT -5
i bringth you pictures of the carb and its surroundings 1.the gremlin 2.the beast 3. any suggestions on how bad that welded y with the two tubes coming out and what that might be 4. down the throat 5 ditto 6. Choke 7.choke w/ me pressing it back into place
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Post by 88gl on Mar 11, 2013 17:52:31 GMT -5
I went through the mess you're in. It got progressively worse for me. I swapped out my carb, but in retrospect I would have tried ditching the auto-choke for a manual choke first as I think it was the choke that was the issue.
I just posted a little write up on converting to manual choke. Click the "new topics" button up top and look for my post on manual choke.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2013 21:51:15 GMT -5
3. any suggestions on how bad that welded y with the two tubes coming out and what that might be If you are talking about the rusty part in the picture, that's your fuel supply and return nipple. If it's welded badly, then that means someone snapped off the return line portion (not uncommon) and tacked until they had a gasoline-tight weld.
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Post by hippy on Mar 11, 2013 22:45:05 GMT -5
duely noted thank you
currently my justy is well read the signature i turn the key and it cranks but wont turnover brother say choke is all but done and i will check the Manuel choke post out again thank you
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Post by hippy on Mar 11, 2013 22:47:53 GMT -5
and what kind of carb did you swap to my brother said to look up a webber 32/36 dgv said it might work if jetted real low might be a possibility
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2013 23:42:05 GMT -5
and what kind of carb did you swap to my brother said to look up a webber 32/36 dgv said it might work if jetted real low might be a possibility Yes, the weber 32/36 is designed to work on a 1200 cc engine. The adapter base plate is the same for a Subaru ea82 engine. Jetting may not need to go as low as you might think. A 1.8 liter four-cylinder ea82 has .45 liters per cylinder while a Justy has .40 liters per cylinder. It's a 12% difference, which will certainly require different jetting, but using an ea82 as a reference and adjusting down from there should get you in the range pretty quickly.
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Post by hippy on Mar 12, 2013 20:27:49 GMT -5
this is what i purchased from ebay Subaru 1985-1987 1.8L OHC EA82 Weber Carb Conversion
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2013 21:59:38 GMT -5
Nice work. You are going to want to clean up those adapter plates before install. Use some wet/dry sandpaper 250-400 grit. Clamp it or adhere it to some glass or equally flat surface with the grit up. Spray wd-40 on it and polish up the flats on both adapter plates. Use a figure-8 motion or circular if the paper is too small for a figure-8. Keep spraying WD every now and then to clear the aluminum out of the grit. The plates are cast and are not as flat as they appear.
I also recommend Edelbrock Gas-ga-cinch on the paper base-gaskets.
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Post by hippy on Mar 12, 2013 22:53:05 GMT -5
definitely will do especially after dropping 325 for a carb thanks for the tip and all the info ferox
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Post by hippy on Mar 13, 2013 14:14:42 GMT -5
ok now i replaced the fuse and it starts but runs in first but shift tosecond no rpms and wants to die. does this comfirm the choke carb problem or something else also the seat belt batt and ebrake light all flash very rapid
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Post by 88gl on Mar 15, 2013 14:20:07 GMT -5
Sounds like a bad alternator.
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Post by sp0ngebob on Mar 15, 2013 19:30:19 GMT -5
this sounds like something else.
it actually sounds like a bad ground to me. i had this happen in an old corolla (admittedly fuel injected) and when i would hit a certian speed the ground would come un-done for a sec and kill the car.
if it were the alternator being dead on a carbed car, there really isnt much to run electrically. it would still run off of battery alone for a minute or two.
if it is dieing cause the choke is in the wrong position, you should be able to jump out, pop the hood and look at what position its in. leave the key in the "on" position and look areal fast. even easier, leave the air pan off for a sec. if it dies consistently you wont really run the rusk of sucking something down there.
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 16, 2013 1:32:16 GMT -5
The flashing lights are likely just the dummy lights coming on when the engine is trying to die. As 88gl said, it could be a bad alternator as the lights are essentially made to come on at around 11volts, rather then the 14volts the alternator typically produces.
If your voltage is dropping before your engine is dying then you could be losing spark. Try charging the battery up, or replacing it then driving it again.
Otherwise I think changing the carb will make a lot of difference, but it may not fix the problem you're chasing. You need to get in there, check your tune-up parts, start simple.
Terry
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Post by hippy on Mar 16, 2013 17:02:04 GMT -5
well i replaced the alt, plugs wires distro cap and rotor and batt so. ok, carb it is
ah gotta love process of elimination
amongst other thing i have replaced heres the updated list
alternator ignition switch battery distributor cap and rotor plugs wires master cylinder (old one caught fire) front rotors and pads i have new half shafts driver and pass side and the carb oh and five new 12 inch tires and every second oil change i seafoam it gas and oil and to think ive only had this car for a year 0.0 (never for sale)
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Post by nipper on Mar 16, 2013 20:06:18 GMT -5
Too much of a good thing ... you don't ned to seafoam it anymore. I am curious, how many miles are on it.
The welded peice is a fuel return to the tank. it bleeds off some fuel to return it to the tank to keep the fuel cool and avoid vapor lock.
Where did you source the replacement carb from?
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Post by hippy on Mar 16, 2013 20:38:04 GMT -5
i will still keep seafoam in the car just in case and ebay the guy i bought it from had nine left 324.50 free shipping too it should be put on in the next week or so
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Post by hippy on Mar 19, 2013 18:44:12 GMT -5
ok the old carb it out do i have to worry about the hole that the coolant comes out at the point where carb meets manifold
and how to set choke my brother\mechanic say it has to cold outside but neither of us know for sure will post pics of the process soon
update due to my inability to keep track of things my brother and i are now getting rid of all nonessential vacuum line, carbon can, HAC......ect.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 19, 2013 23:09:33 GMT -5
ok the old carb it out do i have to worry about the hole that the coolant comes out at the point where carb meets manifold A lot of people put some JB weld in the coolant hole when they convert to the Weber. If you don't, then the gasket will degrade faster and it's even more important that you make sure the adapter plate is flat. If you decide to JB weld and need backing behind the epoxy so you don't fill the intake with it you can use cellulosic packing peanuts. Just make sure they're the kind that dissolve in water. And make sure none of the JB weld is sticking up above the intake surface.
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Post by hippy on Mar 21, 2013 22:21:16 GMT -5
ok the carb is on........first time we didnt think much of the coolant hole but we were wrong filled the oil with coolant......second time we used quick steel (amazing stuff) on the hole it sealed it up nice. changed the oil got it running/idleing sounds a bit rough but its still burning excess coolant oil change tomorrow. btw the choke is currently set at wide open
oh and the cel is on also the batt and ebrake light flicker under acceleration but all in all the acceleration is amazing /sliver lineing lol
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