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Post by blacklight on Aug 17, 2013 16:55:03 GMT -5
Terry: No worries. Like I said in previous post, it started right up and both oil lamp and pressure gauge gave positive feedback on the oil pressure. What's left now: -Re-fill all fluids (engine oil, transmission oil, coolant) -DONE! -Re-install fuel pump bracket. (Made new one from a butchered refrigerator door. Good sheet-steal. ) -DONE! -Finish charging battery. -DONE! -Finish re-installing gear shifting linkage. -DONE! -Install exhaust manifold and the rest of the exhaust system. ½ done. I installed my manifold-hunk-thingy today, so I guess it's just the other half now... -Change O2 sensor. (What color is the wire in the harness for this?) -DONE! -Install spark plugs. -DONE! -Adjust valve play. -DONE! -Set ignition timing. -DONE! Trail-run. -DONE! (God, it sounds like a V6 with straight pipes when there's no exhaust on after the elbow-pipe (joint at the back of the oil pan). (Cooldown) -Re-torque cylinder head bolts. -Left to do. -Adjust valve play. -Left to do. Sound good? Anything else that I may have forgotten? Terry: PM sent. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Aug 20, 2013 8:14:42 GMT -5
Ok. So the car runs great, kind of, now. Still hesitates and stalls at idle, but I know the top carb gasket (not included in kit) were faulty, and I'm now looking to make a new one. Dusty's Justy's have the pattern down (DJCK1), but I'm not sure how to go to print it. My gasket-material paper is flexible enough to be fed through my printer, so to me, it's just a matter of getting the gasket to scale, print it, cut it out, and then start the PITA task of making my way into the carb chamber. I'm also gonna see if I need to adjust the float level while I'm in there. Awaiting reply before I do anything. Now, I'm gonna use this wonderful weather to polish my Justy up. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Aug 21, 2013 15:00:59 GMT -5
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Post by blacklight on Aug 23, 2013 4:49:00 GMT -5
Got the oil pump parts from Terry yesterday (check your PM's). FYI, they have the following part numbers (Note that this applies to EF12 engine only, I think): Inner rotor with shaft and pin: 15009KA050 Outer rotor: 424185610 Pump cover (o-ring comes separately): 15034KA000 O-ring for above: 806945030 (Note: Measurements: 45,4*1,9) Will post separate guide on how to change the oil pump later. //Magnus
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Post by blacklight on Aug 24, 2013 14:48:30 GMT -5
Update. Made a new gasket for the float chamber today (I REALLY hate busting my way in there... -.- ) and made it pretty well. I also re-tightened the head bolts to 73Nm. Problem: It won't idle. Think it has something to do with fuel delivery, since short taps on the acceleration pump makes it "idle'able". Get a CEL after a while of running, and as it lights up, there's a solenoid tapping somewhere on the firewall. Can't say which, since I can't leave the drivers seat or it will stall. Read the code to be 23. What's next? //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Aug 25, 2013 11:22:57 GMT -5
Did some fiddling in the engine bay today. Measured the following solenoids: EGR-regualtion: around 40 ohm Idle-up solenoid: around 40 ohm Duty solenoid (infamous for breaking eventually): also around 40 ohm The solenoid with what I think is a 1/4" hose on the firewall, closest to the wiper motor: around 40 ohm Left is the 4WD, CFC solenoids and the ones close to the CFC-canister, though I'm not sure which is which here. Q: Where is the pressure sensor located? :S Edit: I found this solenoid/electrical thingy bracket right next to the CFC-canister. What are the big, squarey for? Is it a MAP? Also, I've done my best to adjust the engine to idle properly, but it ends up spluttering and dies. The timing is at 5 deg BTDC, as it should be. Q: What's the proper procedure for adjusting the auto choke? Cause I've kind of set it to as closed as possible, and it made the problem "lesser", however, it still won't idle properly. Edit: Video of the problem: www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXzV3DVhG-8Ideas? Running out of time, since I'm entering military service at mid september. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Aug 28, 2013 4:08:10 GMT -5
Update:
I'm gonna remove the ignition coil today and polish the high-current terminal, cause I've found some oxidization there. I've also brought some spark plugs that are identical to the ones that were on the car when I brought it, and ran great with before my rebuild. I'm also gonna check my intake valve play... again...
Anyone know the answers to the following Q:s?
-Where is the pressure sensor located? -What is the electro-pneumatic thingy posted above? -How does one adjust the auto-choke? -How does one adjust the idle accurator? (The dashpot on the drivers side of the carb, closest to the firewall, that goes to a solenoid on the rear engine mount). -What does a persistent code 23 mean? Remember, it's a -89 carb with full electrical ignition control and that annoying duty solenoid in the carb. I've got some experience on working with MegaSquirt EFI, and most, if not all, engines with a similar setup need to have a MAF or a MAP sensor. Thus, it leads me to believe the sensor pictured above is a MAP, that acts as a electronic dashpot that serves the same function as if it were a dashpot mounted mechanically on the dist. A faulty MAP would probably confuse the engine, leading it to fully close the duty solenoid and make strange things with the ignition timing, thus, the engine acts up. Plausible?
//Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Aug 28, 2013 15:22:23 GMT -5
Heureka! It's alive! www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7IH41uSRSQJust need to change a hose clamp at the heater core, or I'll be swabbing coolant off the entire engine bay pretty soon... Still need answer to previous Q's though. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Aug 30, 2013 10:40:11 GMT -5
Right.
Today I was down at mandatory vehicle inspection, and got the following faults: CO value, idle, to high. CO value, fast idle (2500rpm) to high. Brake line, both sides, rust damage.
Brake lines I can fix with relative ease, but the CO... What would cause high CO values? HC value is 56 (threshold value of 100) and O2 value of 1,03, so I guess it' could be the cat. :/
Gonna make my way under the car and try and get the middle joint (at rear engine beam mount) tight, or at least rule it out. Since the exhaust only consists of 2 parts really, I guess the next step would be to remove the exhaust manifold and then grind off that disgusting weld off of the catalytic unit, and see if there's even anything left.
Ideas? :/
//Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Sept 3, 2013 18:27:34 GMT -5
Update:
Last few days have been a PITA, as I've re-constructed most of the exhaust system. I used an endoscopic camera to confirm the front cat was dead. The entire lower cell were completely gone. Thus, I brought a new in-line cat and kept the front cat as a cone and manifold-to-pipe adapter. I had ideas of replicating Terry's flange adapter, but I couldn't fit the cat directly to it without it hitting the stabilizer bracket. I made some new pipes and fitted the new cat where the original rear cat was supposed to be. I also installed a flexi-pipe right after the cat. Left now is one more exhaust hanger to support it all.
Before I kind of "write off" the emissions-problem, could my non-recommended spark plugs (Beru Ultra-X U79) cause poor emissions readings?
Tomorrow, I'm hoping to finish my exhaust system and start working on the brake lines. Q: What size is the nipples joining the rear brake pipes to the hoses? Is it M10x1?
//Magnus
PS. Terry, have you seen my PM?
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Post by blacklight on Sept 9, 2013 14:25:44 GMT -5
HELLO... Hello... hello... Do I hear an echo in here? I've now renewed the brake pipes from the rear wheels to the B-pole (just before original ones go out of the body). I made this installation very thorough, spraying each steel part with galvanizing paint and so on. After proper installation and bleeding was done, I sprayed the new pipe nipples with the same paint. (Nipple size is M10x1 by the way. ) I just have the exhaust hanger left to fix before I take the car to inspection again, prayin to all godly and ungodly instances that it passes. //Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on Sept 10, 2013 13:37:21 GMT -5
Sounds like there isn't much left for them to fail.. Did you ever fix your running issue? The high CO could just be your cat not working, it could also mean your engine isn't running properly, IE compression, timing, carburetion. Have you had a vacuum gauge on the engine since it was rebuilt? Are you sure you are adjusting the valves properly? Is your O2 sensor working? I know from experience the valves make a big difference in these engines.
Terry
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Post by blacklight on Sept 11, 2013 3:02:55 GMT -5
Yay! A reply! The engine seem to be a bitch to get to idle when newly started, but I think it has something to do with my adjustments on the idle-up screw. I've re-constructed the entire exhaust from the front cat and installed a brand new cat at the same place the original rear one is supposed to be. I also installed a flexi pipe to allow more movement and less stress on the joints. Ran a compression test about a week ago, right after me and my father adjusted/confirmed all the valves (again... -.- ) and here's the results (1) (2) (3) Run 1: 175 160 166 Run 2: 170 165 165 I don't know what scale it is (cellphone pics of the readings...) but I guess you'll figure it out, Terry. I do have a vacuum gauge, but I'm uncertain of it's accuracy. Also, where would it be a good place to put it's hose? To which nipple? My O2 sensor is brand new from Walker, so I sure hope so. Haven't read any voltage from it while running though. Should I do that? Also, my temp gauge on my dash doesn't really go up as much... :/ 4 Q's: -How much can spark plugs that are to cold affect the engine and emissions? From what I hear, this engine is moody about what plugs it gets, and that Bosch is not to be recommended. I now run Beru X79, but I have 3 brand new BRISK 13 if they are better. -What would happen/is it possible to swap the ECU from like, an -88 and put it in my -89? Anyone have the proper ECU part number for an -89? -What is the proper operation for the duty solenoid? Mine goes into a constant on/off ticking when I put the ignition on, leading me to believe something is wrong. -I have a total of 6 connectors down by the ECU. The green ones, the single pole black ones, and another pair of two pole black ones. WTF...? //Magnus. (Later edit). She passed inspection! Left to do: -Change exhaust hanger rubber at middle. -Remove rear part of the trans axle. -Check/refill rear axle fluid. -Make new wiring from harness to distributor, since I seem to loose tach signal with some jumps and tugs as follows. Gonna solder the joints to the harness to make it last. -Install new oil pump. The old one seem very worn because I get the OP-light while idling with warm engine. :/ When I'm done with this, so to say, virgin voyage, I probably need to sell it, sadly. :/ I can't afford having it around, and what's left to change is to expensive to change. :/ For starters, it needs a new trans axle, which (used) is 230 USD, which I don't have. I'm not sure, but the previous owner (the f**ktard) who sold the car to me, mentioned that he made some swaps with the engine, and I have my suspicions about him swaping the gearbox as well, but not the rear diff, leading to different final gear ratios for front and rear axle, eating up that trans axle pretty fast when in 4WD mode. If the rear diff is gone too, well... that car would probably be worth more as a parts-car than for use on the roads... It really gives a cutting feel in my heart to make this decision after all this work, but since the car is actually wearing down on my physical and mental health, I see this has the best solution. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Sept 12, 2013 10:54:13 GMT -5
Well, I'm in deep shit now... The U-joints in the trans axle is so busted I wouldn't even let my worst enemy use it... :/ I was thinking about removing the rear half of the trans axle, but since the next joint is on the other side of the support bearing, the front part doesn't have any support. :/ As it would seem now, I must leave the car here and take my Libero (Subaru E10) and be away for 3 months while my father tries to sell my Justy. :/ Update on what I've done today: -Installed better rubber hangers for the middle exhaust support. -Installed the new oil pump rotors and cover. (THANK YOU TERRY!!!) Suggestions, anyone? //Magnus.
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Post by justyjuggler on Sept 12, 2013 12:10:24 GMT -5
Suggestions, anyone? Disconnect rear part of driveshaft & never actuate 4wd
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Post by blacklight on Sept 12, 2013 13:18:22 GMT -5
And suspend the rear part in something, like, steal wire? That's an idea, of course.
However, to be on the safe side for my journey, I'm still taking the Libero though. While I'm away, my father can probably mount a used shaft and then sell it.
It is my hope to get a MPFI Justy some time in the future.
Q:Does anyone know how to identify the gear ratios of the gearbox output shaft and the rear diff, and not by looking at year-models? Like, is there an identification number on either?
//Magnus.
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Post by madmatt on Sept 13, 2013 22:48:15 GMT -5
Magnus,
that sucks. you could pull the yoke off the drive shaft and wire it in place b on the back of the output shaft and leave the driveshaft out. the yoke would not spin provided you did not engage 4wd and that would keep oil in the transmission.
what is your concern about ratios? I spent some time years ago digging to find s higher final drive and I thought I concluded they were all the same. at least in the north American market.
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Post by madmatt on Sept 14, 2013 10:37:31 GMT -5
correction. I believe (from memory) the cvt cars had a different ratio.
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Post by blacklight on Nov 2, 2013 9:31:13 GMT -5
Hi all.
My ad has been out for almost 2 months now, and just 1 have visited and checked the car out. :/ If it doesn't get sold, I'm taking it off the road, (vehicle taxes get refunded and insurance also), giving me enough money to get a used trans axle, I believe.
That's in mid december though.
//Magnus.
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Post by madmatt on Nov 2, 2013 12:48:17 GMT -5
U joints are available... I went to a driveline place, and they sourced them for me...
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