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Post by justyjuggler on Mar 15, 2013 8:08:44 GMT -5
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 15, 2013 11:17:43 GMT -5
What ever came of the high volume one you were building?
Terry
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Post by justyjuggler on Mar 15, 2013 14:31:54 GMT -5
What ever came of the high volume one you were building? Nothing, needs inner rotor. Attachments:
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 16, 2013 1:20:49 GMT -5
You should really finish that and sell it to everybody.
Terry
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Post by justyjuggler on Mar 18, 2013 7:55:45 GMT -5
Find the ad in the comedy section.
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Post by blacklight on Mar 24, 2013 15:41:31 GMT -5
Update:
I've painted the engine block, and started the plastigage operation. (Pics come later.) Thing is, I don't have a 6-sided socket wrench for the main bearing cap bolts, and I don't have the torque specs for the crank anyway, so I had to abort the operation for today. Anyone here have the specs?
Also, I was wondering if someone know what thread size the oil pressure switch has? I measured it to be either 1/8" - 27 NPT or some 0,9 metric thread. Need this to be able to fit my oil pressure gauge.
//Magnus.
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Post by gearheadeh on Mar 24, 2013 17:36:15 GMT -5
Update: I've painted the engine block, and started the plastigage operation. (Pics come later.) Thing is, I don't have a 6-sided socket wrench for the main bearing cap bolts, and I don't have the torque specs for the crank anyway, so I had to abort the operation for today. Anyone here have the specs? Also, I was wondering if someone know what thread size the oil pressure switch has? I measured it to be either 1/8" - 27 NPT or some 0,9 metric thread. Need this to be able to fit my oil pressure gauge. //Magnus. Magnus, 12 point sockets work on 6 sided bolts if that is what you need. According to my 1st gen F.S.M. the torque spec for the crank main bolts is:41-47 N/M or 4.2 - 4.8 Kg/m or 30 -35 Ft/Lbs of Torque The head bolts are:65-73 N/M or 6.6 - 7.4 Kg/m or 48 - 54 Ft/Lbs of torque. I can't remember the size of the port beside the oil filter for the oil pressure sensor but I do know it is definitely (METRIC)
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Post by Justy4x4 on Mar 24, 2013 18:47:30 GMT -5
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Post by blacklight on Mar 24, 2013 20:38:39 GMT -5
Update: I've painted the engine block, and started the plastigage operation. (Pics come later.) Thing is, I don't have a 6-sided socket wrench for the main bearing cap bolts, and I don't have the torque specs for the crank anyway, so I had to abort the operation for today. Anyone here have the specs? Also, I was wondering if someone know what thread size the oil pressure switch has? I measured it to be either 1/8" - 27 NPT or some 0,9 metric thread. Need this to be able to fit my oil pressure gauge. //Magnus. Magnus, 12 point sockets work on 6 sided bolts if that is what you need. According to my 1st gen F.S.M. the torque spec for the crank main bolts is:41-47 N/M or 4.2 - 4.8 Kg/m or 30 -35 Ft/Lbs of Torque The head bolts are:65-73 N/M or 6.6 - 7.4 Kg/m or 48 - 54 Ft/Lbs of torque. I can't remember the size of the port beside the oil filter for the oil pressure sensor but I do know it is definitely (METRIC) Indeed, but previous owners have used 12 point sockets for this and rounded the corners of the bolts, leading to extreme difficulty to torque them to spec, that's why I need a 6-point socket. Luckily, my father has one. Nice fill-in on the torque specs there. Though, what's the required torque on the rod cap bolts? Nm. Thanks. ______________________________________ Hrm... Well, that explains why I couldn't get my 1/8-27 NPT T-junction on... :/ Suggestions? Cause I really want that oil pressure gauge installed... Thanks. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Mar 27, 2013 7:51:25 GMT -5
Time for an update! Yay! Gather round, kids. Gather round. As stated in a previous post, I promised pictures of my newly painted engine block. Here you go. Shiny! I have to admit, I'm quite jealous at ferox's rebuilt and painted engine, but this will do for me. I believe he sandblasted the cylinderhead though, I just cleaned it with some gasoline. Aw well. To bad I don't have the equipment to get the whole thing to brand-new look. Maybe another time. Another pic. From cosmetic fix-up, to mechanical check-up. I plastigage'ed my crank yesterday. All good to go. Unfortunately, I had to reuse my old crank bearing, since I don't have new ones. Cylinder 1 rod bearings good to go. At the same time, I also measured the main bearings. Tip: A good way to make sure you get a strip of the plastigage in just the right length is to put the packaging over the bearing surface and have the end of it at one side of the bearing, and cut it at the other. This ensures you get a strip long enough, and doesn't use more plastigage than necessary. I start off by posting the crank main bearing play. No. 1. (Sprocket-side) No. 2 No. 3 No. 4 (Flywheel-side). Cylinder 1 rod. Cylinder 2 rod. Cylinder 3 rod. With this done, some questions have arisen... Is it possible to mount new main bearings with the engine still in the car? Cause I feel I'm running out of time... :/ Anyone got the maintenance standards for the clutch? A big road block right now is the main bearings which prevents me from installing the crankshaft, and the chain guide which I've yet to order, prevents me from installing both the crank and the crankcase cover. :/ Ideas? //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Apr 1, 2013 18:43:12 GMT -5
Anyone care to weigh in?
//Magnus.
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Post by redfathom on Apr 1, 2013 19:26:52 GMT -5
you could, but you might damage their surface getting them in. i recomend waiting.
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Post by blacklight on Apr 4, 2013 9:03:48 GMT -5
you could, but you might damage their surface getting them in. i recomend waiting. ' Thanks. for the weigh-in. The project is pretty much on hold for now, since I'm bitching with my bank so that I can get a PayPal acc so that I can pay for new bearings and the chain tensioner so that I can FINALLY assemble the engine. -.- I'm also looking to re-create ferox's oil pump bushing mod for my Justy crankcase cover, and my E10's spare engines covers. I've contacted a company that supplies bronze bushings according to spec, and since I'm getting quite crafty with my fathers metal lathe, I can do some work on the pump shaft if needed to fit a bushing according to what they have in stock. Just need to ream up the shaft bore somewhere... Hrm... Will take pic's, I promise. //Magnus.
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Post by justyjuggler on Apr 4, 2013 13:37:54 GMT -5
Choose to grind crank or scrap car before ordering bearings! Ok, seriously now, rebuilds are tricky, and failures painful when pesky clearances are overlooked. Given your oil clearances are at spec limit, it's questionable what would be the best use of YOUR money and time. Just be sure to avoid .05mm undersized grinds...
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Post by blacklight on Apr 4, 2013 15:21:11 GMT -5
justyjuggler: Well, grinding the crank costs about half of what I payed for the entire car, and I don't have an income and almost out of cash... :/ All: I took a quick look at my plastigage-pics in a previous post, and I think it was just one that were out of spec, but since I need new main bearings to plastigage em properly, it all feels like a catch 22; I can't get a proper reading because I need new bearings which I shouldn't order cause I don't have a proper reading... Headache? Me too... Slowly coming to a solution on getting my PayPal account to work, then I can complete the orders I've made + pay the on-earth angel Terry (Armageddous) for his excellent effort to get me 2 new oil pump kits. //Magnus.
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Post by madmatt on Apr 4, 2013 19:46:54 GMT -5
Justyjuggler...
I ask why you caution against the .50mm over bearings?
Is it because like me you are waiting for "offshore" ones??? or some other reason?
Matt
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Post by redfathom on Apr 5, 2013 2:30:47 GMT -5
might need a good set of digital calipers.
some machine shops will check the tolerances, and everything. sometimes for free.
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Post by justyjuggler on Apr 5, 2013 8:24:11 GMT -5
I ask why you caution against the .50mm over bearings? Sorry Matt, it's the .05mm or .002" grind as the bearings are harder to find than Jimmy Hoffa. Back in the day, I bought a justy with a buggered crank end that wouldn't hold the pulley. Teardown showed the rebuilder ground to .002" then settled on .0098" oversized bearings?? The crank pulley bolt's torque is important to exceed spec, and I like to wrap a thin feeler gauge around crank tip between pulley to fill any slop. Blacklight, I hear ya. If the car isn't worth a rebuild, then why bother? You might buy some time by reusing the mains, just be sure to clean the shit out of it. Also toss your ef10 front covers as they lack the dual side suction(oil pump) of later designs.
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Post by blacklight on Apr 5, 2013 11:49:43 GMT -5
justyjuggler: If I knew it needed this much care and additional money put into it, I wouldn't even have brought it to begin with... :S Also, as I dug deeper into this project, the costs started to build higher and higher, tearing my wallet to pieces and I also feel it's eating on me psychologically now... Also, why would I throw the front covers out? The front covers for the EF10's I have is for my E10 van and are of almost completely different design, and buying entirely new ones probably costs more than I payed for the cars together, sadly... EF10 front cover for my E10 van. EF12 front cover for my Justy. Same setting, block-side. //Magnus.
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Post by justyjuggler on Apr 8, 2013 12:10:23 GMT -5
Also, why would I throw the front covers out? Sorry Magnus, forgot you have a van too, my bad…
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