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Post by sledgehammer on Jan 27, 2013 15:51:11 GMT -5
Good write up. Thanks
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Post by blacklight on Feb 20, 2013 12:56:55 GMT -5
Hi all. After moving from my apartment, I've now resumed my little project, that today proved to grow bigger... :/ I spent about 2 hours removing the crankshaft caps and rod caps, carefully noting the bearings with a marker. When I got the crank off, though, my mind got sad... These are all the bearings (from flywheel-side on left). Worst were the no.1 cylinder bottom rod bearing, seen here: VERY bad. The bearings are standard size, so I just need new crank bearings, since I already have the rod bearings. Though, I need to find someone who can make a judgment of the shaft itself (maybe Terry, with some high resolution pictures?) Anyway, here's the crank. Doesn't look too bad (I've seen worse), but I still need to measure it with adequate tools. Prayi'n to god it's fine... :/ //Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on Feb 21, 2013 0:06:10 GMT -5
It's all about clearance between the rod bearings and the crank shaft. One thing you can do is run your nail, or a screwdriver where the recessed portion of the main caps would sit on the crank and see if you can feel a ridge. If there is a ridge you have issues.
You can try cleaning up the worst one (#1 rod it looks like) with some fine grit emery cloth, then clean it up really good and plasti-gauge the clearance. Just make sure you torque the rod cap bolts properly and use new bearings.
Otherwise invest in a micrometer or vernier caliper and compare your readings to what the crank should be. You should also check them for out of round as well.
Typically once you see copper it's not a good sign, nothing besides low oil pressure can cause that, so make sure you find the source of that before throwing all this time and money at the bottom end.
Terry
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Post by blacklight on Feb 21, 2013 4:03:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply, Terry.
At the main bearings, I can clearly feel a small ridge with my fingernail. :/ Also, my dad used to work at a mechanical shop, and he also said this would mean trouble... :/
Not sure where I can get plasti-gauge here in Sweden. Will do some research.
Also, the problem is probably the infamous oil pump, since I can rock the drive-side of the shaft and visually see the play. Not good. What makes matters worse is that I can't get the internals only from Subaru here in Sweden. So I'm gonna need new oil pump internals, chain guide (chain too?), and new mail bearings?
I also need to find a mechanical shop that can measure and process the crank... :/
//Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Feb 24, 2013 5:11:16 GMT -5
Right. So I've done some research, and I can probably get some Plastigage from a bunch of autoshops or workshops, so that problem seem solved. I've also thrown a couple of mails to some machine shops that can measure and grind the crank. Awaiting reply. Also sent a mail to a Subaru workshop asking for price on new main bearings, oil pump internals and chain guilde. However, if they either can't get it, perhaps someone out there could order it for me, send it to a relative I have a bit north of LA who can sent it to me? Would be very much appreciated. While waiting for replies, I've modified a cheap-o-gauge to a custom scale. Here's some pics.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2013 14:28:02 GMT -5
That's pretty cool. Did you print out a sticker or something for the gauge face?
I would recommend getting your bearings through the same shop that grinds your crank.
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Post by blacklight on Feb 24, 2013 20:05:12 GMT -5
Thanks ferox. No, I printed it on regular A4 standard paper and used some plastic sheet from the packaging the gauge came in. Ok. Will check with them as soon as I get some replies. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Feb 26, 2013 16:57:12 GMT -5
Some progress update. Still bitching with the company that sold me the gasket set. Hope for them to come to reason soon. I've brought home the crankcase cover for inspection/cleaning/preparation for re-install. I used a thread tap (word?) to clean all the threads and used a thread die (word?) to clean the bolts. Haven't fixed that broken bolt for the oil pan, right under the alternator mount, yet. Not much of a surprise, the oil pump shaft and bore was pretty worn, and I'm gonna turn the cover over to a industrial collage (best description) to see if they can machine the bore to the spec of a bronze bushing that I've adapted an other oil pump shaft for. Hope to bring back pics of this procedure. Some pics. Water pump inner seal. This will be exciting... Oh dear mother of god... I believe this is the original seals, thus all the road dust mixed up with engine oil... :S Another pic... Yummy... Outer seal, cleaned. Water pump weep hole, seen at 12 o'clock in previous pic. This hole is used to drain if either coolant or oil leaks past the seals on respective side of the cover. I cleaned this using a drill that I flipped the wrong way. Oil pump interior. The blue is from a marker I used to help indicate where the rotors scratch the cover. Oil pump rotors. They are actually in pretty good condition. Clearances seem fine. Again, the blue is from a marker I used to indicate scratching portions of the shaft. Last up, the oil pump cover. The o-ring was soft and flexible, so I guess this has been changed at some time. Though, there is some scoring on the cover. I could probably just grind the cover down just to get rid of that. That's about all I had for now. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Feb 28, 2013 6:53:35 GMT -5
Progress update. Last night, me and my father spent about 2 hours of the PITA task to put the valves back into the cylinder head. (God, I hate the design of the valve spring retainer... -.-) I also borrowed a friends garage and some fine sanding paper (K100), put it on one of his machines and ground the head down to a smooth, even surface. Took the opportunity to grind a bit on the crankcase cover to get a smooth surface between the cover and the block. I also made some grinding on the oil pump cover, the housing, and the water pump gasket mating surface. Here's some pics. Newly ground head. Some damage seem to have occurred on the head at some time, but I don't believe it's gonna pose a problem. Combustion chamber with newly ground valve contact surfaces. All 3 basically look the same, so. Installed the new valve seals. Yay! All the valves are in place! Only took us about 10 minutes/valve, since the valve spring press is a PITA and the valve spring retainer is of a really stupid design. We tried with sticky assembly lube, without, we even tried magnetizing the valve stem to stick the retainer keys to the valve before releasing the spring press, but it proved not to work. Another pic. The surfaces I ground a very small bit on the crankcase cover. I've concluded, however, that I need to install my bronze bushing in the oil pump shaft hole, or I'll have to change the bearings again pretty soon, or worse... Another pic. Back of the cover. I only penetrated the natural corrosion on the cover-to-block mating surface to get a good seal for the gasket later upon assembly. When I was done, I installed the valve rocker and associated parts. No use trying to adjust the valves yet anyway, so that's as far as I got LATE last night. Today, I've borrowed my fathers micrometer, since my measurements with a digital caliper wasn't gonna give me a good answer on the condition of the crank. My crank gave the following measurements: Crank bearing 1 (at chain sprocket): 41,90 – 41,92 Cyl. 1 rod bearing: 41,99 – 41,99 Crank bearing 2: 41,83 – 41,92 Cyl 2 rod bearing: 41,97 – 41,98 Crank bearing 3: 41,93 – 41,97 Cyl. 3 rod bearing: 41,95 – 41,95 Crank bearing 4 (at flywheel): 41,93 – 41,98 I'm not gonna say anything about whether the crank is within limits, since I don't have the correct maintenance standards. Terry? Pretty please...? //Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on Feb 28, 2013 21:51:25 GMT -5
You have to compare the readings on the crank with the inside diameter of the rod bearings, that is, with the rod bearings installed and nuts torqued to spec.
Either that or plastigauge them.
Terry
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Post by blacklight on Mar 1, 2013 9:38:04 GMT -5
Ah... Seems like I have to make a trip downtown and get some plastigauge then. Was wondering, do you have the wear limits for the crank? Just so that I can compare? Also, I just got off the phone with Subaru with prices. (All prices are recalculated from SEK to USD.) The oil pump, complete with inner+outer rotor + cover would cost 79 dollars. A set of crankshaft main bearings, STD size would cost a testicle-crushing 170 dollars. The chain tensioner alone would also crush the other testicle with it's 170 dollar price tag. The chain would cost about 100 dollars. To top it off, it would be sent by ship, not flown here, meaning about 2-3 MONTHS for it all to get here... -.- This is why I'm now turning to hope someone here could order the following stuff from, like, Dusty's Justy's (source is optional) for me, and then send it to me? This is because they don't ship to any other country than US or Canada. Since I'm already ordering, might as well take a few things more and make a list with total calc (and DJ part"numbers".) PCV valve - DJPCV $4 New OEM Oil Pump - DJOPK $49 Aftermarket Balance Shaft Chain w/o Gold Links - DJBSC3 $33 OEM Balance Shaft Chain Guide, White T=6.5mm- DJBSG1 $95 Aftermarket Main Bearing Set, STD - DJEBS5 $65 OEM Balance Shaft Bearing Set - DJEBS3 $19 Total: 265 USD, and then probably a minor shipping cost. Or should I just tow the car out of the garage and set it on fire...? //Magnus.
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Post by austing on Mar 1, 2013 12:53:24 GMT -5
I recently ordered my balance shaft chain, and guide, from Advanceauto.com, I imagine that, due to there size (the wal-mart of auto parts), they will ship any where.
And the price was affordable; On their website the guide is listed as "S.A. Gear guide", I've put 5000 miles on the one which I installed in my engine, no complaints.
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Post by blacklight on Mar 2, 2013 7:12:43 GMT -5
I recently ordered my balance shaft chain, and guide, from Advanceauto.com, I imagine that, due to there size (the wal-mart of auto parts), they will ship any where. And the price was affordable; On their website the guide is listed as "S.A. Gear guide", I've put 5000 miles on the one which I installed in my engine, no complaints. Thanks. Found several of the items I was looking for, however... "Shipping Destinations We ship to any United States, US Territory (including Puerto Rico), or APO/FPO address. We currently do not ship to international addresses." Ideas, anyone?
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Post by madmatt on Mar 4, 2013 17:34:26 GMT -5
Don't trash it yet...
I would say I would ship to you but I'm in Canada. However if You wanted to get stuff through rock auto I would be happy to forward it.
I'm slow these days though. Won't happen over night.
Matt
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Post by blacklight on Mar 4, 2013 18:26:00 GMT -5
Matt: Thanks! I've had PM-contact with Terry (Armageddous), whom also lives in Canada by the way, and he can also do it. First one to the windmill gets his flour first (Swedish expression, I believe). I'm fine with any of you making me this tremendous favor and feel free to use any source you'd like. To bad I can't pay you back in any other way other than the compensation for the forwarding. Would be fun to ship off one of my Subaru E10's to the one that does it, but it would be way to expensive. Maybe some day in the future... *Dreams off...* Some coordination left to do, but it does look a bit more promising. While in the lack of parts, I've done the body work (cutting, welding) on the driver's side door. Bottom were all rotted away, so I slaughtered an old computer chassis (older ones have good, thick enough steel that have some galvanization ) and made an effort to make the door more... wind tight, so to speak. Though, I really suck at arc welding (thread-fed, no Argon gas), but since my Justy isn't going to the moon, I did my best. Just need to put filler on it, sandpaper it into shape, put bottom paint on it (2 layers, maybe), then 2 layers of paint, then some clear coat (word?). Must also add this is my first ever body work, so don't send hate-mail to me... Think that's it for now. Will visit a industrial college (word?) that may be able to machine the bore for the oil pump so that I can fit my modified oil pump drive shaft with a bronze bushing, or at least discuss it with their teachers. //Magnus.
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Post by gearheadeh on Mar 4, 2013 18:40:55 GMT -5
So I went to the Subaru Stealership that I like the most here in Calgary and got pricing on factory parts for you. The price is comparable to what you had but the availability if it was drawn from the Big Subie warehouse in the states would be a couple of weeks to Calgary. Then I realized that the shipping for slow postage originating from Canada depends on the incredibly over priced Canadian postal service. This is why I didn't offer to cross ship parts cause I know from buying parts from the U.S off Ebay. The shipping rates for the U.S.P.S (NOT- U.P.S.) is less than 1/2 of what it would be from the U.S. to Canada then from Canada to the U.S. for example! How about it, Anybody south of the Canadian /U.S. border into doing this. Can't see where there is any risk if he pays you first thru Paypal! P.S. Buying a rebuildable EF10 is something I might be interested in!
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Post by blacklight on Mar 4, 2013 19:47:32 GMT -5
gearheadeh: Yeah, a US located forwarder would be best in terms of shipping time. I have a relative who lives north of LA, but I haven't been able to get a hold of him yet. As to the matter of compensation, I'm fine with just sending money after purchase is complete (easier to get the final total), then for the shipment to Sweden. PayPal is an alternative, but I'd have to get an account there first. And as for your PS, gearheadeh, PM sent. ' //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Mar 11, 2013 3:55:10 GMT -5
Right. Just got back from an army drill, and well... Let's just say I believe my weekend was more fun than yours... Anyway, back to my Justy issues. Anyone in US up for the forwarding-operation? If not, anyone canadian can do it too. Just drop a PM before you order, with total price and if possible, estimate of shipping costs. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Mar 14, 2013 17:28:51 GMT -5
Update!
I now have a cost estimate from Subaru.
You should put something to protect your balls before proceeding with reading...
Chain tensioner: 143 dollars. *POW!* Chain: 143 dollars. *WHACK!* Crankshaft main bearing set: 237 dollars. *SLAP!* Complete oil pump set, consisting of inner+outer rotor, o-ring and cover: 68 dollars. *PUNCH!*
And to add more sulfuric acid into the wound of my wallet, an extra 184 dollars is added as tax. *CRACK!* This brings this ridiculou-price to a testicle-pulverization total of 923 USD...
So... After this (simulated) economical ass-kick of my wallet (and self esteem), I now put my faith to Terry (Armageddous) whom's gonna check prices at dealer in Canada.
I do believe it will be a lot cheaper for me to order it from Canada, have it shipped across the Atlantic to my doorstep, and still have money left for some speakers for the Justy that have better bass than the ones that are installed now, which sounds like a pair of piezo-electric hearing apparatus...
Questions? Comments?
//Magnus.
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Post by Armageddous on Mar 14, 2013 20:55:33 GMT -5
Woops, I dropped the ball again. I will try for tomorrow.
Terry
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