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Post by austing on Dec 3, 2012 15:58:05 GMT -5
That sounds like a pretty big job, swapping blocks, I'm unsure as to how to go about getting the timing back in tune, and any other little things that might need to be adjusted, after doing something like that.
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Post by madmatt on Dec 3, 2012 16:44:09 GMT -5
I just realized they are both '88s! You wouldn't need to swap lower ends, you'd just need to swap motors... Which in my opinion is 300x easier and safer then swapping the timing chain to the balance shaft!
There would be no "timing" issues whatsover, you wouldn't open the motor up. And in fact if you already have the timing belt off to pull the cover to access the chain, you ALREADY need to check engine timing on your current motor.
A motor is big, but it's contained, and if it's known as a good one, I'd be putting it in whole before I'd take parts from a used motor and put them in another used motor. I've done that WAY to many times in the past only to rip the thing apart again and fix it right.
Matt
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Post by austing on Dec 4, 2012 13:55:54 GMT -5
I hear what you are saying, and recognize the logic behind it, but I would like to just keep the original Engine in my car; and do the oil pump rebuild/other repairs I a have in mind, and keep the Engine in my parts car as a back up in case there is some sort of major failure.
It is running great since I got myself a feeler gage and adjusted the valve lash clearance, I have alot of confidence in this engine, and I think it will be very happy after I replace the chain and guide. Anyway, it only has 206,000 miles on it.
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Post by austing on Dec 4, 2012 14:25:42 GMT -5
Also: Ferox, do you think it is possible to change the guide, as well as the chain, by dropping down the crank? I don't know that dropping the crank will help much on the guide removal and install other than making a little more room to try to get a tool in there. It's been a while since I have done it, but I think you are going to have to pull the crankcase plate to access the bolts holding the guide to the block. If you can get a tool on them from underneath then you might be able to do it, but it would be a pita. It's worth a try at least. If I were doing it and I was short on money, I would probably start stockpiling parts as I could afford them and would pull the engine and replace the chain, guide, oil pump, water pump, and new crankcase plate gasket. The crankcase plate area is where all the maintenance action is going on, so if you are going to go through the trouble you might as well get maximum value for your efforts. Ferox, does the "Crankcase plate gasket" have another name? I seem to be having trouble finding a gasket by that name. Do you have a recommended parts source? any other gaskets you suggest changing when I pull the engine? Thanks!
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Post by austing on Dec 12, 2012 16:39:03 GMT -5
I just wanted to ask this question again:
"Ferox, does the "Crankcase plate gasket" have another name? I seem to be having trouble finding a gasket by that name. Do you have a recommended parts source? any other gaskets you suggest changing when I pull the engine?
Thanks! "
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Post by redfathom on Dec 12, 2012 18:28:04 GMT -5
stupidly i think its called a timing cover gasket, or front cover gasket. should look like this, only not curled up on the right. Attachments:
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Post by kalarr on Feb 24, 2013 10:40:17 GMT -5
Does the block need to be lifted up to get the oil pan out?
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Post by madmatt on Feb 24, 2013 11:21:23 GMT -5
No, but it's way easier to work if you remove the subframe that runs front to back under the motor. The motor will hang in place on the other mounts, but I prefer to work under it with the motor supported on a jack stand... I feel much safer.
Lift the motor slightly with a jack (1/2")
Remove the bolts supporting the motor mount under the motor (on that subframe).
Lift the motor up off the mount. Place a jack stand under the transmission.
Remove the subframe. Now you have tons of access.
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Post by kalarr on Feb 24, 2013 13:27:47 GMT -5
No, but it's way easier to work if you remove the subframe that runs front to back under the motor. The motor will hang in place on the other mounts, but I prefer to work under it with the motor supported on a jack stand... I feel much safer. Lift the motor slightly with a jack (1/2") Remove the bolts supporting the motor mount under the motor (on that subframe). Lift the motor up off the mount. Place a jack stand under the transmission. Remove the subframe. Now you have tons of access. Thank you for that info. Very helpful. I have all six bolts removed from that long undercarriage motor mount. I am trying to remove it but it just pivots and flexes around it's mid area where there is a rubber and metal area connecting it to the bottom of the engine. I cant tell if it is just pressure and friction holding it in or if I need to take off something else. How do you remove this area so that whole beam will come out?
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Post by kalarr on Feb 24, 2013 13:36:21 GMT -5
I think that my issue is that I can't get the motor raised high enough to slip that lower beam out. It had 6 bolts holding it on - two in front, two in back and 2 in the middle. The middle two were simply nuts that came off of two bolts sticking down from above. The front and back were full bolts that came out from below. I am putting a back under the engine and lifting it to try to get the two remaining bolt studs high enough to let this beam slip out free. But it will not go high enough to allow that..
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Post by kalarr on Feb 24, 2013 14:33:17 GMT -5
Figured it out.. Had to drop the sway bar down.
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