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Post by kwahom203 on Apr 10, 2012 1:23:44 GMT -5
both brushes are the same length I was just asking because the brushes have a slant on the end so I didnt know which way to seat them in the holder the higher end of the slant toward the left of the pic I posted or to the right?
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Apr 10, 2012 3:12:18 GMT -5
ahh, now I see what you mean. look at the way the brush holder fits in the trans and it will become obvious, the holder will be at a slight angle to the slip rings, the slant will be in the direction that gives you the bigger contact area if you understand what i mean. One way will give you a "point" contact, the other way will give you a big contact area.
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Post by kwahom203 on Apr 10, 2012 21:03:22 GMT -5
Ok next on the never ending list of crap gone wrong. I got the brushes sodered on and my starter put back together, got it started and let it warm up then put it in reverse and could feel it go into gear and it wanted to idle backward without pushing the gas same with drive, thought it would just be an adjustment but figured the problem of not moving when in gear was solved so I took it on a test drive and could not get it above 30 mph and if I tried to speed up it would just rev but not go any faster. I turned around to go back to the shop I was at and it got worse and I barely made it back. Once I got back I took the starter back off and took out the brush holder and the brushes looked like they were completely worn down, but further inspection yielded the pictures shown. Any ideas? Attachments:
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Apr 11, 2012 0:07:34 GMT -5
yep, they look like brush springs....whats the problem?
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Post by kwahom203 on Apr 11, 2012 0:45:57 GMT -5
They were a lot longer when I installed them and now they are perma compressed. are they shot? I am just wondering why they are shrunk down like that. When I put them on they were stretched out all the way like it is toward the bottom of the spring in the pic. It made is so that the brushes werent being pushed up against the slip rings I think? Should I just buy new springs? Or should I maybe just get the whole part new from subaru? Or is there maybe something else wrong that would have caused this?
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Apr 11, 2012 3:46:38 GMT -5
most likely the brushes were a bit long and the springs were over compressed, they have lost tension, the brushes have burnt away and you are back to the start of the original problem. At least the brushes wore and not the slip rings.
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Post by kwahom203 on Apr 11, 2012 8:24:17 GMT -5
The brushes bareley wore since the springs lost tension they didnt have a chance to, they are basically the same length they were when they were new. Do I need to get new springs and try again with the brushes soldered down farther? Or I am wondering if there is just some underlying issue that needs to be taken care of?
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Apr 12, 2012 2:21:02 GMT -5
the brushes should be soldered to a contact plate at the top of the spring so the spring can push them down onto the slip rings, i'd get some new springs and refit everything, I suspect you got something assembled wrong and over tensioned the springs causing them to coil bind and lose tension.
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Post by whitedonkey8 on Apr 20, 2012 3:04:14 GMT -5
wow that is exactly what my brushes look like.
I think I have the same problem, my car won't go past 30.
So did it work, did changing the brushes fix the problem???
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Post by kwahom203 on Apr 29, 2012 14:31:33 GMT -5
I have not gotten the chance to put it all back together again a second time. I have to find some new springs and then try it again. If it still only goes 30 I may just cave and buy the whole part new for 130 from subaru.
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Post by kwahom203 on May 18, 2012 0:00:58 GMT -5
Got the new part and now it works fine! thank you for all of the help
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Post by wvjusty on Nov 10, 2012 15:37:38 GMT -5
Pulled the brushes out today 1 is a lot shorter than the other the longer brush's spring felt stuck the other moved freely. Going to try and find replacements this weekend, again if anyone knows the Brush part number for Nippondenso it would save me a lot of time. Edit 11/11/12: Found a Nippondenso Altenator Brush Catalog, www.stmaryscarbon.com/images/automotive-brush-catalog/catalog_pdfs/SMC-Catalog_NippondensoAlt.pdf Using a standard cm ruler the brushes seem to be 8mm wide 5mm tall while I'm not certain of stock length FA-161 being 5mm T x 8mm W x 28mm L x 87.5mm LL (lead length) should be sufficient.
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Post by wvjusty on Nov 20, 2012 20:49:25 GMT -5
Found an Alternator repair shop that had 124 FA-161 Nippondenso brushes @ $2.85 each. (bought four for 10$) Soldered them in today. The Justy wouldn't move at all before and now seems okay in forward and reverse. I'll make a longer trip tomorrow just to make sure.
Edit: 11/21/02 Drove it 8 miles tonight no hesitation shifting.
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Post by francopeter on Aug 8, 2014 4:09:34 GMT -5
After cleaning the brushes (the shifter wouldn't go into R or D/dS BEFORE) I have the problem that my Justy only drives backwards !? Shiftstick goes now into R from P but still not into D/Ds. Is one brush for forward and one for backward, meaning that maybe one brush (the "forward" brush) is too short?
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Post by cvan on Nov 4, 2014 20:41:12 GMT -5
Whaaaaaa? The Dextron shouldn't cause any immediate harm but it's not good to leave in their for the long haul. The manual says Dexron II, III ATF fluid. I drained and filled it with old school Dextron ATF (harder to find BTW), and it has been running fine for 3-4000 miles. I don't want the ECVT to crap out, the car has over 200k on it, is the manual and maintenance book wrong? What do we use, Royal Purple, AMSoil, Cod Liver oil? Also, has anyone installed the in-line filter for the ATF line? It seems to go between the tranny and radiator. I worry about dropping the return pressure and starving the flow. www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1990/subaru/justy/transmission/automatic_transmission_filter_kit.html
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Post by Zeke on Apr 14, 2016 10:50:25 GMT -5
Mine's too, but what is the actual size of the brushes so I can get the right one to replace the bad ones? Here's the pictures from mine. Also, out of curiously, why is one brush is lower than other? How is that works?
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Post by willie on Sept 8, 2021 15:37:58 GMT -5
The clutch temp light coming on has nothing to do with the transmission itself. It's for problems related to the electromagnetic clutch. The most likely cause is worn out clutch brushes. I've seen this many times and new brushes have always fixed the problem, so far anyway. The brushes are accessible by first removing the starter (two bolts) then removing the brush holder, another two small bolts. New brushes can be purchased from Subaru as a complete assembly for around $100. I take the low cost approach and purchase Nippondenso alternator brushes from a local starter/alternator rebuilder. $2 for the pair out the door! I then solder them in the original brush holder and it's good as new once again. Pull those brushes and have a look. The Dextron shouldn't cause any immediate harm but it's not good to leave in their for the long haul.
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