dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Jan 1, 2012 4:26:54 GMT -5
I'd suspect worn mains, (yours look worn and if you are at the upper wear limit, thats too worn for good oil pressure.) and the good old problem that plagues any car, blocked oil filter and a soft relief valve spring and or dirt under the sealing ball. I had the dreaded busted mech seal in the water pump and decided to pull the engine rather than do it in the body (been there, and that front cover will come off in place, but since it takes an hour to get the engine out vs 5 hrs fighting with skin removal bits, i pulled the engine) and once i had the sump off and cleaned it, i discovered a nice layer of sludge all over the rear of the front cover around the relief valve outlet. Cutting a long story short, i dealt to the relief valve with a rounded bit of wire and some brake cleaner....end result with 20W-50 and a new filter....15 psi at idle and 50 psi at 3000 rpm, up from the 5 psi and 35 psi i had before.
as an aside, find a decent refrigeration seal supplier and get a sintered carbide seal glued into the water pump impeller, the suby ceramics are crap, designed to last 2-3000 running hrs and are thin as and break easy. The carbide ones seal better, cost about $10 and last 10,000 running hrs.
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Post by n2xlr8n on Feb 1, 2012 18:12:51 GMT -5
...and the good old problem that plagues any car, blocked oil filter and a soft relief valve spring and or dirt under the sealing ball. .... and once i had the sump off and cleaned it, i discovered a nice layer of sludge all over the rear of the front cover around the relief valve outlet. Cutting a long story short, i dealt to the relief valve with a rounded bit of wire and some brake cleaner....end result with 20W-50 and a new filter....15 psi at idle and 50 psi at 3000 rpm, up from the 5 psi and 35 psi i had before. as an aside, find a decent refrigeration seal supplier and get a sintered carbide seal glued into the water pump impeller, the suby ceramics are crap, designed to last 2-3000 running hrs and are thin as and break easy. The carbide ones seal better, cost about $10 and last 10,000 running hrs. Could you explain the relief valve? Is it the oil filter bypass valve? My pump pickup was so clogged that I'm surprised it oiled at all. Also, can you provide pics of the sintered seal you used, or is it something I'll "get" when I tear it down? Thanks for your help!
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Feb 1, 2012 19:00:49 GMT -5
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Post by n2xlr8n on Feb 2, 2012 16:51:51 GMT -5
Got it. Thank you kind sir.
Has anyone used the Mazda pistons mentioned in the forum...successfully?
Another thought:
I'm wondering if I could darn near dry sump the thing for what I'd spend on repairing / bandaid to the crappy oiling system.
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dogoman
A Boxer engine will fit in a Justy, its called a WRX
Posts: 445
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Post by dogoman on Feb 2, 2012 23:13:16 GMT -5
hmm, never thought about dry sumping one, but man, the logistics will be scary, tank, scavange pump, pressure pump, hose, fitting and cover modifications.... I know how much the methanol burner cost to set up, and honestly, its probably not worth it. The std oiling system works ok as long as you understand what wears and where to look. Mines got 340,000 kms on it and the oil pump still looks as new, all due to maintenance over its life. I'd be repairing it, clean everything thoroughly and put it together.
as for the pistons, I've fitted wierd pistons into cars when the factory items haven't been available, all you need to worry about is gudgeon (wrist pin for the americans) to piston crown height. as long as thats the same, and the pins are same, (and obviously the diameter of the slug) then you can use them. Isuzu diesel pistons work well in the old 80's Audi 100's, and are less than 20% of a set of aftermarket audi pistons.
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Post by justyjuggler on Feb 3, 2012 8:32:25 GMT -5
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Post by n2xlr8n on Feb 8, 2012 20:52:24 GMT -5
If you have the data to show this mod is effective for the long run, I'm all over it.
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Post by justyjuggler on Feb 9, 2012 10:34:23 GMT -5
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Post by n2xlr8n on Feb 11, 2012 17:54:14 GMT -5
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Post by justyjuggler on Feb 13, 2012 8:06:14 GMT -5
The link describes the limitations of cantilever supported rotors better than I care to repeat. Mock it at your own peril...
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Post by doctormcgoveran on Apr 3, 2012 23:18:51 GMT -5
In the case of an old motor, you can run straight STP, straight piston plate or straight 70 weight air craft oil. In the summer as long as it will start and it is a crankcase lubrication. I have ran a lot of old stuff that was tired when I got on thick crankcase additives and prayers for better days.
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Post by doghead on Feb 6, 2020 2:27:52 GMT -5
...my oil pressure has barely improved at all. At cold startup it's around 40 psi. Once the car is fully warmed up, my oil pressure is about 18 psi on the freeway, 10 around town, and around 3 idling. I wonder how accurate my oil pressure gauge is. I bought the cheapest one they had... You might want to try bringing home a used pressure guage and sender from some vehicle in a breaker yard. Threads are standardized. If you still get the same reading, the problem might be with the pressure relief valve connected to the pump or even the pump itself. On yours, there are scratches to be seen. But, without accurate surface measurement, it's difficult to determine its performance from here. Also mentioned was the suggestion that the main bearings could get renewed without removing the engine. On American cars of the fifties, this was common practise, because they were using wick seals for the end mains. If your modern rubber rear seal is still maleable, there's always the possibility of punching the upper main shell through without permanently damaging an otherwise brittle seal through stretching it. An old used car salesman's trick was to pour brake fluid into the crankcase, because the brake fluid was supposed to soften up rubber seals. Replacing the main bearings can only help increase oil pressure, if the pump is delivering properly
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