|
Post by sp0ngebob on Apr 22, 2014 17:50:07 GMT -5
the seal is a 22x13x5mm seal. 5mm thick., however when i did mine i thought that an 8 or 9mm seal would be better. youll see what i mean when you see the recess that it sits in.
i ordered mine online for like 2 bucks. an oil seal is an oil seal. only kicker is you have to remove the bearing which is a press job. and the bearing i got at napa for 24 and promptly destroyed on accident. oops.
thats from my records
Oil Seal = TTO(Tai Tsung Oil) B221 SC(type) 13(shaft) 22(bore) 5(al = TTO(Tai Tsung Oil) B221 SC(type) 13(shaft) 22(bore) 5(depth) O(material)
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2014 21:37:24 GMT -5
the seal is a 22x13x5mm seal. 5mm thick., however when i did mine i thought that an 8 or 9mm seal would be better. youll see what i mean when you see the recess that it sits in. i ordered mine online for like 2 bucks. an oil seal is an oil seal. only kicker is you have to remove the bearing which is a press job. and the bearing i got at napa for 24 and promptly destroyed on accident. oops. thats from my records Oil Seal = TTO(Tai Tsung Oil) B221 SC(type) 13(shaft) 22(bore) 5(al = TTO(Tai Tsung Oil) B221 SC(type) 13(shaft) 22(bore) 5(depth) O(material) Hmm, cool. Thanks for the info! Since after all this time I have a reman distributer right here in my hand, right now, I am going to swap it out and see how that works. If so inspired, I may tear down the old one and see if I can replace the seal.
|
|
|
Post by sp0ngebob on Apr 23, 2014 12:05:42 GMT -5
can you do me a massive favor?
i took my distributor apart but wasnt able to get it realigned properly (guts to case). wold you be willing to take a picture of the internal alignment marks against the screws that hold the internals in place on either the reman or the old one?
my ignition timing is all over the place because of this.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2014 17:38:56 GMT -5
Yep - I can snap a pic of the inside of my old one if that would help. I will do that tonight.
|
|
|
Post by sp0ngebob on Apr 25, 2014 10:29:57 GMT -5
mucho awesome. thanks man. all the pics ive seen and alignment marks arent even close to what i have. my timing has been garbage for like 2 years.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2014 11:39:44 GMT -5
mucho awesome. thanks man. all the pics ive seen and alignment marks arent even close to what i have. my timing has been garbage for like 2 years. Sorry it took so long, lots of stuff going on right now. See if this helps at all. The "marks" are a little weird, they look basically like you just stick a flat--head screw driver in there to line them up but I have no real idea. Just looked like if you stuck a normal sized screw driver in the hole, the notch would also line up. Maybe someone has a service manual. I can get a better pic, this was just hand-held with my phone. Let me know if this works:
|
|
|
Post by station on May 3, 2014 18:20:18 GMT -5
Mine is also leaking, straight down the front of the gearbox.
Had a look in the massive workshop manual but nothing in there about distributors.
|
|
|
Post by sp0ngebob on May 5, 2014 11:18:43 GMT -5
trust me, the seal is in there. its a shaft that rides on a bearing and the seal is behind that. you have to disassemble the dizzy entirely then press the shaft out of the housing. it comes out towards the cap side. once out, you will see the bearing and seal just sitting there.
|
|
|
Post by Loki on May 22, 2014 14:50:13 GMT -5
Here is an exploded diagram of the distributor Here is a cut-away cross section of the distributor Here is another detail on how to adjust Hope this helps...
|
|
|
Post by taupophil on May 23, 2014 2:39:09 GMT -5
Hi folks. I have just replaced the oil seal in my Justy dizzy. It's an old points type dizzy - Hitachi D3J84-01. (2210KA231). The seal was found to be 12.45 x 22 x 6 Counterclockwise. The Nissan part number is B2131-01M00 from a 2000 Altima. The size had me very baffled at first until I searched (and searched ans searched) and by dumb luck found this correspondence in size. The seal I punched out (and destroyed in the process) had the same number on it as the Nissan part. Good luck to all.
|
|
|
Post by justyname on Jun 10, 2015 17:21:35 GMT -5
i just rebuilt my 1991 mpfi dizzy, i had hell getting the right parts but here you go. i had to order the seal by size less than 5 bucks shipped. it is a 10x20x6 mm and the bearing i got at autozone for 11.00 .cc200 ,was there # it is listed as a alt bearing and they had it instock. 10x30x9 double seal ,original #6200 rd is useless but i found in oem bearing catalog with a #6200rsj (10x30x9 double seal) . and i ordered the o-ring from the local abq subaru dealer $5
my advice =mark the bottom of the shaft and floating drive thingy, pull it apart find some metric calipers and measure the seal and bearing order your parts by size cause no parts guy in america can help you here.
|
|
|
Post by justytrudeau on Jan 27, 2018 14:17:35 GMT -5
Wombatsauce:
How did the Cardone work out for you?
I have a distributor that I was told needed the o-ring replaced. Well sure enough after replacing the o-ring it is still giving me issues.
I didn't even know a 'new' part was the option, so I began searching for used distributors (in decent shape) up here in Alaska.
Sounds like we have a similar situation going on, so if the Cardone was reliable for you, I'd give it a shot.
|
|
|
Post by 1993cy1l on Dec 28, 2019 10:43:23 GMT -5
Hallo everyone and thanks for the thread. I also havean inside the distributor oil leak. Managed to dismantle the most of the inside components BUT can't find the way to release the shaft. I can see the oil seal inside the housing but the shaft is in the way. How can I remove it?
|
|
|
Post by 1993cy1l on Dec 28, 2019 10:45:45 GMT -5
I don't know how to attach a picture. If I could post one then it wouldmake clear the dire situation I am in!
|
|
|
Post by deegore on Dec 28, 2019 15:53:30 GMT -5
If it's the coupling holding you up ( on the engine side), it's held in place by a tension pin. You can drive it out with a punch. Inside the distributor there are two screws that hold the bearing in place. Once the screws and coupling are removed the shaft should pull out from the top (cap side.) The bearing will come out with the shaft.
You need to use an image hosting site and link to the url to post a picture.
|
|