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Post by deegore on Feb 26, 2017 14:02:23 GMT -5
I'm finally getting ready to install a Weber Carb, and would like some advice. What's the best way to plug the coolant line under the Carb? Should i just drain out some coolant and fill it up with J.B. Weld? Also, what should be done with the hose going from the valve cover to the air cleaner? I was thinking a small filter like this.
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Post by deegore on Mar 7, 2017 16:55:23 GMT -5
Got it in. There is a place for the valve cover hose in the new air filter so the small filter isn't necessary. A couple things worth mentioning. The coolant line was sticking up above the manifold and had to be cut off for the adapter to fit. I used a hacksaw blade and then sanded the manifold smooth. I used something called pc metal epoxy putty to plug the coolant line. It's firm enough that I didn't need a backer to keep it from running into the manifold. It says it repairs radiators and gas tanks so it should hold up. I wasn't sure if I should just plug the pipe or the the whole thing. I decided to plug the whole thing. Then I sanded the manifold smooth again. The bolts supplied with the adapter are too long for the manifold so I had to walk to the hardware store and got the next shorter M6 bolts. I planned to drill and tap the manifold for the M8 bolts that fit the adapter better, but chickened out because I didn't think I could do it without drilling through the manifold passageways. I used the fuel barb and the throttle plate from the Hitachi Carb. I used a spacer from the Hitachi behind the throttle plate to keep it from rubbing the linkage. The throttle linkage plate needed to be cut a little so it wouldn't hit the thermostat housing. The k731 kit I got came with the 1.75" air filter. It looks like it is about an inch away from the hood, so I don't think the trans-dapt adapter would fit. The car idles way smoother now, and there is a little more power on both sides of the speedometer. Unfortunately, my gas mileage went from 25 to 21mpg. I'm sure I need a smaller idle jet and I've got a lot to learn about the other jets. Hopefully there is a lot of room for improvement. Now a couple questions. Since I don't have a vacuum advance distributor, I hooked up the egr to the port labeled vacuum advance. That should be fine right? They are both ported vacuum? I unhooked everything from the canister except the line coming through the firewall. Could I get rid of that too and delete the canister, or should I leave it as is? The check engine light is on because there is no duty solenoid anymore. I could pull the duty solenoid from the Hitachi, hook it up, and let it hang there behind the carb, but then I would have to listen to it tick all the time. Anyone got a better solution? Thanks for reading that whole thing, hopefully it will be a little help to someone in the future.
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Post by southerner on Mar 7, 2017 17:20:25 GMT -5
+1.. My carb is out and looking for a replacement.. I think i'll go for a Weber 44-44.. Wondering about the vaccuum advance since mine was replaced for a single diaphragm system and the high jet never worked afterwards..
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Post by certimafied on Mar 8, 2017 7:02:48 GMT -5
Deegore, I was able to correct my check engine light in one Saturday, long story short I have a spare bulb for my dashboard now lol
southerner, I've been able to run my justy flawlessly without the vac advance hooked up at all. My diaphragm was busted and honestly didn't want to spend the time or money to replace it works just as good without it.
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