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My 89
Feb 16, 2010 6:01:15 GMT -5
Post by ncjusty on Feb 16, 2010 6:01:15 GMT -5
This is the 89 FWD Justy I bought this weekend on E-Bay for $640. It has 101,000 miles and was converted to manual transmission. Other than a slightly cracked dash its in very good condition, just needs cleaning up a bit and a new brake master cylinder. Even has the original factory floor mats. The guy I bought it from has a Subaru custom shop that specializes in WRX / STI engine swaps. Really awsome guy, he is delivering to me next weekend...248 miles for free! Attachments:
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My 89
Feb 16, 2010 13:46:53 GMT -5
Post by xtremzj on Feb 16, 2010 13:46:53 GMT -5
89? ya sure? looks like a gen2 to me!
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My 89
Feb 21, 2010 20:28:36 GMT -5
Post by ncjusty on Feb 21, 2010 20:28:36 GMT -5
Yup, its carburated and the title says 1989. FWD (unfortunately) but in very good condition inside and out. The guy I bought in from on E-Bay dropped it off today! I still can't believe he trailered it 248 miles from Atlanta to my front door for free! It needs some work to be road worthy. The brake master cylinder leaks so I took it off tonight to take it to NAPA tomorrow to order a new one. Checked the brakes front and rear and they were fine. Now I gotta fix that high idle.
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My 89
Feb 23, 2010 20:23:31 GMT -5
Post by ncjusty on Feb 23, 2010 20:23:31 GMT -5
Well it appears I was too happy too soon. I thought the master cylinder would be my biggest problem but no such luck. Discovered the rear main leaks pretty bad and the front too, although not quite as bad. I'm still excited about this car. It has real potential, just needs some TLC. Fortunately there is a Subaru repair shop about 20 miles from me, Higgins Automotive in Salisbury NC. Jimmy Higgins has been in business more than 30 years and the older the Subaru, the happier he is to work on it. After I get my new master cylinder installed I'll be on my way to Salisbury. More later.
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My 89
Mar 7, 2010 6:56:33 GMT -5
Post by ncjusty on Mar 7, 2010 6:56:33 GMT -5
This has been the most frustrating car I've ever worked on. Still can't get pressure up on the new master cylinder after bleeding half a galon of brake fluid through the lines. Drove it a bit on the culdesac I live on hoping to get pressure built up but no luck.Looks like I'll have to tow it to the shop.More $$$ down the drain.
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My 89
Mar 7, 2010 14:18:37 GMT -5
Post by justy1st on Mar 7, 2010 14:18:37 GMT -5
Wouldn't hurt to check vacuum hoses or the booster itself for leaks, especially the hose coming off the brake booster itself. Attachments:
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My 89
Mar 7, 2010 22:16:05 GMT -5
Post by ncjusty on Mar 7, 2010 22:16:05 GMT -5
Thanks for the suggestion. The hose is in good shape and connected properly. I sure wish that were all that it was. Changed the master cylinder but can't get pedal pressure. Primed the master while level on a bench vise. Bled all lines once installed. Caliper seals good, rear brake cylinders good. Must still have air in the lines.
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My 89
Mar 8, 2010 0:04:57 GMT -5
Post by onsk8 on Mar 8, 2010 0:04:57 GMT -5
last time i changed a master cylinder i had the same problem. In the end i used a electric emergency tire pump, a valve stem, and a rubber end cap used on plumbing. Its a very ghetto version of somethign similar to this: faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/bleeder/index.htmPressurize to around 20 psi, crack open bleeders and done. After that you should be able to bleed normally.
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My 89
Mar 8, 2010 23:18:44 GMT -5
Post by ncjusty on Mar 8, 2010 23:18:44 GMT -5
Wow. That's incredibly ingenius! Thanks for the suggestion. That would be useful for more than my Justy and money well spent.
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My 89
Mar 12, 2010 10:33:16 GMT -5
Post by ncjusty on Mar 12, 2010 10:33:16 GMT -5
Hold everything boys and girls!! Could the car's ailments get any worse??? You betcha! Tried to change the oil before taking it to the shop for bearing seals, water pump, timing belt etc and there's water in the oil. Don't know how I missed it when I checked the stick before I paid the guy for it, but miss it I did! I was so excited about finding a Justy in such great exterior/interior condition I blew off my own better judgement! Not sure where to go with this now. Got $640 in the purchase, $79 in title transfer and tag, $89 in the master cylinder, $10 in oil (had three new filters in the spare tire compartment when I bought it) and $66 in plugs, cap, rotor, wires, air filter. Who would want to buy an 89 Justy with a blown head for $884?? More later after I get done kicking myself in the ass!
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My 89
Mar 12, 2010 15:50:37 GMT -5
Post by Sævar Örn on Mar 12, 2010 15:50:37 GMT -5
And this is coolant water in your oil?
Most likely yes
Check the gasket, its an easy fix if you have some common sense, i did it in one evening and didnt resurface the head, just sanded it lightly as it didnt show any warping on the rightscale
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My 89
Mar 12, 2010 16:07:04 GMT -5
Post by Sævar Örn on Mar 12, 2010 16:07:04 GMT -5
the head gasket
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My 89
Mar 12, 2010 20:48:08 GMT -5
Post by ncjusty on Mar 12, 2010 20:48:08 GMT -5
Water is definitley in the oil. After I drained the old oil, wiped off the bottom of the oil fill cap and ran it a minute, water was on the cap again and small bubbles on the dipstick. Unfortunately I lack the mechanical experience to tackle such a project. Fortunately the mechanic I'm taking it to will fix the head (including resurfacing), replace the front & rear main bearing seals, timing belt, water pump and fix the fast idle for an agreeable $650 or less if he can find cheaper parts than his first rough estimate and doesn't have to resurface the head. (It's a funny coincedence he said he sands some by hand and has good results!)
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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My 89
Mar 12, 2010 21:14:59 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2010 21:14:59 GMT -5
89? ya sure? looks like a gen2 to me! Gen 1 = '87-'88 / Gen 2 = '89-'94 Ncjusty, you could have water in the oil from the waterpump or headgasket. You might want to do a compression test on your engine before having a mechanic replace the head gasket and resurface the head. If you have good consistent compression, then I would consider the waterpump as the source of the water in the oil. You can probably get your own compression tester for $20-$40 or so. They are really easy to use and come in handy from time to time. A compression tester is also probably the best tool you can use to assess a used car that you are thinking of buying as well. What is wrong with the fast idle? If the carb hasn't been altered or adjusted, then fast idle issues could be a huge array of possibilities, not the least of which is a carb that needs rebuilding. I don't want to sound like I am down talking this mechanic, but you might be a little wary of general claims like fixing a fast idle, when the fixing may be way more involved than $650 will cover. If you are going to own a Justy, the fact of the matter is that you will have to learn how to work on it. It might be best to have the mechanic do some work on it to get it going as a daily driver, but there are a lot of little, inexpensive things you can do before you take it to him that can make a huge difference. Once you and the mechanic have it running tolerably well, you can learn how to do more of the more involved stuff, which is still pretty simple on these cars. I would start with the compression tester and replace all the old vacuum lines one by one. It might cost you $15 in vacuum hose, but it can make a huge difference in driveability.
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My 89
Mar 13, 2010 0:51:00 GMT -5
Post by Raw Justyce! on Mar 13, 2010 0:51:00 GMT -5
NC: I replaced my very first head gasket on my friend's 88 Justy with no prior experience, and just a service manual! Having the head resurfaced of course is something you can't do yourself (or I suppose I should say shouldn't?) because of the equipment, but trust me: Popping a new head gasket in wasn't all that bad. Its all about what you're willing to try!
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My 89
Mar 13, 2010 3:57:34 GMT -5
Post by Sævar Örn on Mar 13, 2010 3:57:34 GMT -5
I replaced my head gasket in about an hour, with no technical info or experience on this engine at all, on a hoist with all air tools, but gives you an idea of what kind of job this is. I did not resurface the head but it still goes strong, you can check if it´s warped badly with a rightscale laying it over the head surface both verticaly and horizontally, with a light on the other side of the rightscale, you shouldnt be seeing to much light getting below the rightscale. usually heads don´t warp unless the car overheats and boils, but i have a feeling something historical has to go on, with this.... 20cm long head?? for it to warp badly.
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My 89
Mar 13, 2010 20:01:35 GMT -5
Post by ncjusty on Mar 13, 2010 20:01:35 GMT -5
Thanks for all of your suggestions and encouragement. I don't want to appear unappreciative as I have been on other forums that were full of know-it-alls that wouldn't give you the time of day let alone answer a simple mechanical question. This forum has been a refreshing, helpful and informative place I've enjoyed a lot. The facscination and appreciation for this car that members have voiced here is contageous and I can't wait to get my Justy on the road! That said, if I lived in a place of my own I would definitley take a crack at fixing this myself but I live in an apartment complex that resticts car repairs to minor tinkering. It sucks but thats the breaks. For better or worse I have to take it to a shop when repairs are major. However, I will get the compression tester and test the compression. The water pump on this car is driven by the timing belt, right?
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My 89
Mar 13, 2010 20:38:04 GMT -5
Post by Sævar Örn on Mar 13, 2010 20:38:04 GMT -5
The water pump and oil pump are chain driven, they are hidden behind a cover underneath the whole time belt mechanism, the time belt only powers the camshaft. And turns the idler wheel on the belt tensioner.
I believe the water pump should not be of much worry, the rotor is made out of metal, and the bearing bushings are very strong, it seems. I just ripped one apart today. And it was fine, after 18 years and 190.000 km driving
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My 89
Mar 14, 2010 0:21:12 GMT -5
Post by RedRooJusty on Mar 14, 2010 0:21:12 GMT -5
**Sævar Örn**, for 190,000km (or ~118,060miles) the water pump might have been changed before. The impellers' seal is notorious for failing, letting coolant past into the oil pan. Then again I do believe in luck Perhaps you got a good one. -RRJ
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My 89
Mar 14, 2010 4:09:07 GMT -5
Post by Sævar Örn on Mar 14, 2010 4:09:07 GMT -5
The dealers around me dont hold any justy parts available so I doubt anyone has ever changed the water pump in my racer
But if you are overhauling the motor there is no reason but to change as many parts as possible at that time, it will be a pain to find yourself with a small problem, buried inside the engine after a big overhaul with things all apart.
-Sævar
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