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Post by RedRooJusty on Feb 12, 2010 21:25:17 GMT -5
Yes.. where is the 'abuse' section? I can easily turn a Justy 180° within one lane at 25-30mph on dry pavement. Forgive the implication, I have not done this in the Justy (forgot to mention I do this with my wifes FWD Saturn Vue). I can turn a slow 180° in a narrow two lane street in the Justy (no skidding involved), to me that is more impressive. downshift compression braking. Engine braking can easily turn into Justy abuse as well if done excessively. Works much better at getting tailgaters to back off than tapping the brakes does. ;D -Danimal One might argue that single gear downshifting for compression braking is no move abusive than accelerating. Now dropping a few gears and tacking out is really bad abuse on the drive-train. I just wish people would realize the stupidity of tailgating, all I can do is not participate. Why should I have to react to someone who clearly does not know how to manage their time. Besides I usually am pushing over the posted speed limit by a few ticks. I find ignoring tailgaters is far more satisfying, they are still behind me so "f*** them", why should I reward their bad behavior by letting them get their way. Unless they are an emergency vehicle, I have the same privilege to the lane as they do. -crikes I am ranting again -RRJ
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Feb 13, 2010 2:14:12 GMT -5
Thanks madmatt. The few that do accept the method once taught (such as my wife and perhaps youll also agree) cannot believe how bloody obvious and simple it is. I wonder if the typically poorly designed foot operated emergency brake in North-American designed cars resulted in the 'parking brake only' phenomena that tends to lead to seized brake cables. Why did the North Americans ever bruy that in the first place? consumerism. What the hell am I raving about? All great points **RedRooJusty**. I certainly dont want to encourage turning the Justy so quickly, mine is my daily driver. Quite a fair assumption indeed about engine braking versus acceleration, I ought not to have said excessively but rather, well, abusively I suppose... downshifting too early, et cetera. I am concerned about the clutch and wouldnt imagine dropping sharply enough to tach out. Be safe, ... grease your wheel bearings The best advise regardless of ones driving style. Danimal
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Post by imaginarius on Feb 13, 2010 23:10:54 GMT -5
One guy got on me a while back so I flipped up the rearview to keep me from getting blinded, but I think I blinded him! He got the point and backed off.
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Post by xtremzj on Feb 22, 2010 3:45:26 GMT -5
First of all redroo the "parking brake" is NOT for emergencies it is for parking. do you really think locking up the rear wheels is a good idea in an emergency situation? And second the stock 4wd does not disangage anywhere near fast enough to be used as nipper suggested. Third you don't really need the hand brake for rallying when other techniques can be used. You need to get out there and learn how to drive without it. In other words before you go modifying anything learn how to drive the car as it is. never watch rally huh? every hair pin, or 1 turn we take and pull the handbrake to get the ass around. Very different from a stock cable handbrake on justy, we use a hydro system. But still, its no way connected to the center diff or anything else for that matter. from wiki: The handbrake turn is a driving technique used to deliberately slide a car sideways, either for the purpose of negotiating a very tight bend quickly, or for turning around well within the vehicle's own turning circle. The driver starts by using steering input to transfer weight to the outside tires; the handbrake is then used to lock the rear wheels, thus upsetting the adhesion between the tires and the road surface. With practice, the car can be placed accurately by releasing the handbrake and accelerating the vehicle. The technique is used in some forms of motorsport, for example rallying, autotesting, and motorkhana.
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Post by indkid87 on Feb 23, 2010 15:48:40 GMT -5
First of all redroo the "parking brake" is NOT for emergencies it is for parking. do you really think locking up the rear wheels is a good idea in an emergency situation? And second the stock 4wd does not disangage anywhere near fast enough to be used as nipper suggested. Third you don't really need the hand brake for rallying when other techniques can be used. You need to get out there and learn how to drive without it. In other words before you go modifying anything learn how to drive the car as it is. never watch rally huh? every hair pin, or 1 turn we take and pull the handbrake to get the ass around. Very different from a stock cable handbrake on justy, we use a hydro system. But still, its no way connected to the center diff or anything else for that matter. from wiki: The handbrake turn is a driving technique used to deliberately slide a car sideways, either for the purpose of negotiating a very tight bend quickly, or for turning around well within the vehicle's own turning circle. The driver starts by using steering input to transfer weight to the outside tires; the handbrake is then used to lock the rear wheels, thus upsetting the adhesion between the tires and the road surface. With practice, the car can be placed accurately by releasing the handbrake and accelerating the vehicle. The technique is used in some forms of motorsport, for example rallying, autotesting, and motorkhana. Umm yes who do you think your talking to? subarujusty.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=memberjustys&action=display&thread=2506 I grew up watching rally and I have a fair amount of experiance in it myself. All I was trying to say was that your better off possibly losing a few seconds on the hairpin instead of using the hand brake and possibly breaking something and not finishing the stage. Yes a usable handbrake would be helpful and I have wished that I had one from time to time. Why does everone need to be so hostle on this forum? There is such a wealth of collective knowledge but its like pulling teath to get any good info.
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Post by madmatt on Feb 23, 2010 16:54:47 GMT -5
indkid87,
I just followed your link. The dash looks great, I've seem some awful ones! (where the flocking is all different texture because it doesn't stand up well) The good ones have always be pro-done. What brand of flocking did you use? And how well does it clean up from dust?
Matt
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Post by indkid87 on Feb 23, 2010 17:18:40 GMT -5
indkid87, I just followed your link. The dash looks great, I've seem some awful ones! (where the flocking is all different texture because it doesn't stand up well) The good ones have always be pro-done. What brand of flocking did you use? And how well does it clean up from dust? Matt Thanks! this is the stuff I used www.donjer.com/products.htm#Kits the trick is to get the flocking sprayed on before the adheasive starts to dry. It cleans up pretty easy with a shot from an airgun and it hides the dust pretty well even after a rallyx on a dry track with fine clay dust.
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Post by madmatt on Feb 23, 2010 17:24:44 GMT -5
"But still, its no way connected to the center diff or anything else for that matter."
That's the whole issue here (the OP's original post)
To make a hand-brake, hydraulic or otherwise usable for the "handbrake turn" in a AWD/4WD vehicle, there must be a way to disengage the center diff (unless the diff is completely open). In the case of cool computer controlled clutches (as in STI's), this is easy, have the handbrake trigger open the clutch. Otherwise it becomes more difficult if not impossible.
If the brake is powerful enough in a viscous or solid locked center, and the corner is tight enough, pulling the hand brake will lock one rear AND one front, usually the inside front and inside rear. But this depends on the surface type, if you have the clutch pushed in or are even still on the throttle.
Matt
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Post by easleyrdr on Jan 12, 2011 22:40:37 GMT -5
Just a thought, if you convert the handbrake to one rear wheel then that wheel will lock up. The other rear wheel keeps spinning and there shouldnt be any lock up of the front wheels. Anyone else think this will work? However, it might not generate enough forwards motion to get enough spin. I could also see it heating up and or possibly destroying the differential with alot of use. In regards to the original topic, individual left / right hand brakes would seem to be the best way to go. For say, a tight left hairpin turn, you would just activate the left (inside) rear brake which would lock that wheel, and hopefully cause the right (outside) rear wheel to start spinning. The diff would probably be fine as long as you kept fresh, high quality oil in it.
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