|
Post by mattboarder360 on Dec 15, 2009 17:47:23 GMT -5
I have the option to buy a justy for 400$... It is a 87 fwd(i believe) Not a perfect body or interior but not terrible 130k miles Runs!!!
The Bad.... Hole in catalytic converter. And it needs a new front wheel baring
I need to know how extensive these repairs are and if its a good deal.
Thanks, Matt
|
|
|
Post by Quidam on Dec 15, 2009 18:08:06 GMT -5
Hey Matt,
Where are you in this world? We need pictures!
Doug
|
|
|
Post by mattboarder360 on Dec 15, 2009 21:26:16 GMT -5
Not yet owned by me...how hard is it to fix the wheel baring's? I assume the exhaust prob wouldn't be.
|
|
|
Post by Quidam on Dec 15, 2009 21:40:39 GMT -5
Hey,
It's not hard at all. What bearings and seals you use depends on 2WD or 4WD. Edit: It may be hard for you, if you've never done wheel bearings.
Doug
Edit:
1987 SUBARU JUSTY GL 1.2L 1189cc L3 2BBL (7) : Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Bearing Price Core Total BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0513990
FRONT; FWD ^ Ships from same location as parts in cart $5.84 $0.00 $5.84 BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0512444
Rear Outer; FWD ^ Ships from same location as parts in cart $6.13 $0.00 $6.13 TIMKEN Part # 30204M
FWD; REAR OUTER $12.03 $0.00 $12.03 TIMKEN Part # 30205M
FWD; REAR INNER $12.88 $0.00 $12.88 NATIONAL Part # 30204 {Taper Bearing Assembly; Cone Length=0.5512" Bore=0.7874" Outer Diameter=1.8504" Width=0.6004" Cup Length=0.4724" Cone Radius=0.06" Cup Radius=0.06"} Rear Wheel; Outer $16.49 $0.00 $16.49 SKF Part # BR30204
Wheel Rear; Outer; F.W.D. (Only 2 Remaining) $16.74 $0.00 $16.74 BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0513809
Rear Inner; FWD $16.89 $0.00 $16.89 NATIONAL Part # 30205 {Taper Bearing Assembly; Cone Length=0.5906" Bore=0.9843" Outer Diameter=2.0472" Width=0.6398" Cup Length=0.5118" Cone Radius=0.06" Cup Radius=0.06"} Rear Wheel; Inner $17.51 $0.00 $17.51 SKF Part # BR30205 {#30205} Wheel Rear; Inner; F.W.D. (Only 1 Remaining) - Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day $19.81 $0.00 $19.81 TIMKEN Part # 305AG
FWD; FRONT INNER $21.89 $0.00 $21.89 NATIONAL Part # 305 {Ball Bearing; Outer Race Radius=0.0402" Bore=0.9843" Outer Diameter=2.4409" Width=0.6693" Inner Race Radius=0.0402"} Front Wheel; Inner Front Wheel; Outer
|
|
Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
|
Post by Danimal on Dec 15, 2009 21:54:27 GMT -5
30000 could be 230000. It is an '87. How well does it run, did you at least check compression?
I recently bought an '88 for $225.00. -Danimal
|
|
|
Post by Quidam on Dec 15, 2009 21:55:03 GMT -5
Wheel seals.
NATIONAL Part # 1974 {Oil Seal; Nitrile / Shaft Size=1.969" Housing Bore=2.638" Outer Diameter=2.648" Width=0.433"} Front Wheel; Inner Choose: [Regular Inventory -- Full Mfr. Warranty] ($4.68)[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 1 Remaining) ($1.88) ^ ^ Ships from same location as parts in cart $1.88 $0.00 $1.88 NATIONAL Part # 224462 {Oil Seal; Nitrile / Shaft Size=1.732" Housing Bore=2.441" Outer Diameter=2.451" Width=0.315"} Front Wheel; Outer Choose: [Regular Inventory -- Full Mfr. Warranty] ($7.43)[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 1 Remaining) ($2.86) ^ ^ Ships from same location as parts in cart $2.86 $0.00 $2.86 TIMKEN Part # 1974 FWD; FRONT INNER $3.18 $0.00 $3.18 TIMKEN Part # 223830 FWD; REAR INNER $3.74 $0.00 $3.74 BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523790 Front Inner; FWD $4.39 $0.00 $4.39 TIMKEN Part # 224462 FWD; FRONT OUTER $5.08 $0.00 $5.08
|
|
|
Post by mattboarder360 on Dec 15, 2009 21:59:03 GMT -5
Thanks for the pricing info...i even found some parts at auto zone...my biggest concern is the difficulty of labor or price of labor.
|
|
|
Post by mattboarder360 on Dec 15, 2009 22:49:43 GMT -5
30000 could be 230000. It is an '87. How well does it run, did you at least check compression? I recently bought an '88 for $225.00. -Danimal Runs fine, didnt check compression but its my gf's dad who has the car...still runs and has plates...not too smooth as far as it needs a wheel baring.
|
|
|
Post by mattboarder360 on Dec 17, 2009 20:27:40 GMT -5
top would love some more info
|
|
|
Post by Quidam on Dec 17, 2009 23:39:39 GMT -5
top would love some more info On the labor? You'd need to check around for that. I don't know if anyone has done a write up on how to do it... Doug
|
|
|
Post by RedRooJusty on Dec 18, 2009 12:17:01 GMT -5
The Bad.... And it needs a new front wheel baring ... Thanks, Matt Matt what are the symptoms leading you to the wheel bearing? The reason I ask is many people (including me) have been fooled into replacing front wheel bearings (50~80$ plus hours of labor) when it turned out to be a worn center spacer (5~10$ plus about ten minutes to change and re-torque) on the axle. These Subarus need have to maintain a great deal of torque **edit to reflect spec for an 87-88**(front 130ft-lbs) on the axle "castle-nut" (keeping all the hub parts in compression) to operate correctly. Just more info would be great. My "old" wheel bearings were still in OEM spec tolerances, but I already had disassembled the hub and removed them before confirming this. My loose wheel and noises came back after the bearing replacement, then I learned of the center spacer and sure enough that fixed it. -welcome to this forum -RRJ
|
|
|
Post by redmavis12 on Dec 18, 2009 12:57:26 GMT -5
I've got the same thing happening on my right front wheel again ...even after replacing the brakes and stripped-out hub this past summer. I never did replace the "spindle kit" as it looked OK to me, but I guess I should try a new set. I did hit a pothole pretty hard about a month ago, so I hope I didn't destroy the wheel bearings...I don't really want to pull the steering knuckle in sub-freezing temps.
|
|
|
Post by mattboarder360 on Dec 18, 2009 21:37:54 GMT -5
If this "problem" isn't fixed and the car is still lightly or moderately driven will in be bad?
|
|
|
Post by RedRooJusty on Dec 18, 2009 22:39:43 GMT -5
In a very short time (even driven lightly), this problem will: Destroy the Hub (~140$) Destroy the Axle (~60$) Destroy the brake rotor (25~45$) Destroy the wheel bearings + seals (50+25$) A solid 300$US (not incl labor) if you do the work, or <10$US for a "spindle kit". shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=DOR&MfrPartNumber=05136&PartType=742&PTSet=A 6.99$ takes a couple of days to get. Easy math, sorry I don't have a better answer. If a short trip, you could problably drive the Justy home, see about tightening the castle nut as tight as you can before driving it home. The cotter pin should only be keeping the castle nut from backing off. -RRJ
|
|
SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
|
Post by SeattleJusty on Dec 19, 2009 0:51:15 GMT -5
In a very short time (even driven lightly), this problem will: Destroy the Hub (~140$) Destroy the Axle (~60$) Destroy the brake rotor (25~45$) Destroy the wheel bearings + seals (50+25$) A solid 300$US (not incl labor) if you do the work, or <10$US for a "spindle kit". shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=DOR&MfrPartNumber=05136&PartType=742&PTSet=A 6.99$ takes a couple of days to get. Easy math, sorry I don't have a better answer. If a short trip, you could problably drive the Justy home, see about tightening the castle nut as tight as you can before driving it home. The cotter pin should only be keeping the castle nut from backing off. -RRJ
|
|
|
Post by mattboarder360 on Dec 19, 2009 1:14:55 GMT -5
where is a god place to look up diagrams to do this...i'm not the most mechanically inclined person on here... Thank you for all of you help thus far...though i fear i will be asking for more fairly often.
|
|
|
Post by =Justyless= on Dec 19, 2009 2:07:32 GMT -5
don't do it man! these thing just consume money
|
|
|
Post by RedRooJusty on Dec 19, 2009 2:57:59 GMT -5
Matt where are you located? One of us might just be local to you. This illustration might he helpful ("T2" is the spindle kit we are focusing on) side view diagram of the "spindle Kit" installed front looking diagram of the spindle -Oh I was off a bit on the castle-nut torque, for the 87-88 front axle the spec is 130ft-lbs
|
|
|
Post by badshah on Dec 19, 2009 4:02:03 GMT -5
Does the spring washer with the 'OUT' mark apply to Gen I Models too. I am asking as I had a plain washer on. How does one check if the spacer is worn or not? Is there a minimum thickness spec in the book?
|
|
|
Post by Quidam on Dec 19, 2009 5:54:57 GMT -5
"How does one check if the spacer is worn or not?"
Hi,
I compare them to others and once you do, you'll know just by looking at them.
Doug
|
|