Hello! I come from Austria, I have a Subaru Justy 1.2 Gli 1992. I want this on turbo rebuilding. I still agree with such a one to exploit at home for the Justy. I have a turbo system, from a Ford Escort 1.8 turbo diesel.
My question: Should I replace the head gasket against a stronger one. What injectors do I need? What else do I have to rebuild everything else? I would be 100 to 120 hp representation.
Clutch I have just renewed.
Super might be better if someone could explain to me what I need to change everything!
Thanks for the answer! You think that the turbo inlet is too long? This is not good, in which case I will look me straight to something else.
Do you think it just works to install a turbo drive approximately 0.4 - 0.5 bar boost pressure on? or do I change the fuel injectors too? I feel it difficult to durability. would like to go for a long time with this car;)
why should it not work? exhaust gas will of course only one way out and then have them pass the turbine wheel, it is clear that it will work, but you must ensure that the engine gets more fuel does not go lean!
I thought you did the same thing, but I think Lowryder might have been right! I got me worried now have a turbo from a Daihatsu Charade GtTi. This is even water cooling. The Charade is indeed a 3 cylinder 1000 cc. do you think is the better choice?
Dit you just at the turbo to a stock MPFI, without modifying anything? (except exhaust header + oil feed)
IC, I have not yet installed. But I have at home. at the moment it does not matter.
I have the temperature sensor with an adjustable resistor (rich mixture), the fuel pressure Elevated something. At full load, I have a lambda value of 0.83. Spark image was beautiful brown. With 0.3 bar it went perfectly!
It was only when I came to 0.7 bar Elevated problem. First, he is not running at 0.7 bar. He's at 4,000 rpm, the gas no longer accepted. The problem was the map sensor. Does anybody know how I can control the map with more boost pressure sensor correctly. Without it deregulates?
Last Edit: Jan 22, 2010 18:07:56 GMT -5 by sachsfan
You probably broke your ringlands with too much timing for your octane level. You can't tune a turbo engine properly by just reading plugs. The color changes too quickly once you let off of boost.
Technically you should make a boosted run, then shut off the ignition under full load and coast to a stop then read the plug. This has to be done with new sparkplugs installed beforehand as well. Also, if the heat range of your spark plug is too hot then when you read your plug it looks leaner than it is, so you would think that you needed to add more fuel; alternatively if your sparkplug is too cold, then it'll appear rich, and you could melt a piston by leaning it out to get the plug the proper "color". Not to mention that different fuels color a plug differently!
I tune with a wideband controller; I get my AFR correct, then look at the plugs. I am inspecting the plugs solely to see if I have the proper heatrange, as I already know from the wideband that my fueling is proper. For your information, I am running NGK BKR-7E plugs in my turbo Justy. They have the same snout length as the factory plugs, but are one step colder. Also, I have been turboed for almost 15months now without any problems, and know the plug heatrange to be ideal.
Also, to answer your question about the map sensor you could build a circuit like the one described at this site. This is a schematic for a "Fuel Cut Defender". It's purpose is to shunt the map sensor voltage at a certain point so that the ecu doesn't think there is a problem. It is adjustable by a potentiometer at R3, and with a little trial and error you will be able to boost more than 0.7BAR, as you can fool the computer into thinking that the engine is only seeing 0.5BAR etc.
Edit link that works. Gearheadeh You could also simply install a check-valve inline with the mapsensor and prevent it from seeing any boost pressure at all. This method works well provided you have the means of measuring the boost pressure with another device such as an AFC, E-manage, etc that can accomodate the needs of the engine with respect to timing and fuel when the factory ecu cannot.
Last Edit: Mar 25, 2013 10:41:33 GMT -5 by gearheadeh
deegore: I slept in my 2 door driving from AZ to MN. Some front seats that fold flat would be necessary to really get comfortable.
Dec 10, 2017 17:59:40 GMT -5
marisa_: i'm thinking of buying an 88 justy fwd tomorrow. it's super clean looking, 68000 mi. i don't really know what i'm getting myself into though.
Dec 29, 2017 16:26:30 GMT -5
justytrudeau: FWD means you don’t have to worry about any problems that can come up with the AWD system. AWD is clutch in snowier climates, but the pre 90’s models have carbeuraters instead of being fuel injected. Carbs can cause some issues in the winter time.
Jan 14, 2018 15:47:29 GMT -5
justytrudeau: Anyone put LED's in their instrumental panel? I have to remove the whole dash to get to 'em, figured it'd put off having to do it again by a few years.
Jan 23, 2018 22:18:20 GMT -5
justytrudeau: Are they interchangeable?
Jan 23, 2018 22:18:34 GMT -5
aberlin: make a post about it
Jan 24, 2018 8:24:53 GMT -5
Bredmirror: Can a Suzuki Gti engine fit into a Gl manual Justy?
Jan 24, 2018 8:36:48 GMT -5
aberlin: make a post ........
Jan 25, 2018 9:55:06 GMT -5
Justy1200cc: bredmirror, if you do it you would need the suzuki transmission. I think it's searchable on the forum for more details
Jan 30, 2018 22:25:04 GMT -5
bredmirror: Thats what Im planning to do. However, if the engine and the transmission won't fit then Im just gonna upgrade the stock engine and get a tubo kit for it.
Jan 31, 2018 4:28:16 GMT -5
justytrudeau: Anybody bought aftermarket center caps for their wheels?
Feb 16, 2018 1:37:50 GMT -5
Justy1200cc: I bought a pink sti badge off wish. it was pretty big and when I found a real sti the logo was even smaller than the justys
Feb 21, 2018 0:07:08 GMT -5
1991SubyJustyNotStarting: Engine not starting
Feb 22, 2018 22:14:37 GMT -5
justytrudeau: Just replaced my headlights with LED's as well as all my dashboard instrument cluster. None of them work, and now my taillights have gone out too. Likely wiring issue, eh?
Feb 23, 2018 22:12:08 GMT -5