Hello! I come from Austria, I have a Subaru Justy 1.2 Gli 1992. I want this on turbo rebuilding. I still agree with such a one to exploit at home for the Justy. I have a turbo system, from a Ford Escort 1.8 turbo diesel.
My question: Should I replace the head gasket against a stronger one. What injectors do I need? What else do I have to rebuild everything else? I would be 100 to 120 hp representation.
Clutch I have just renewed.
Super might be better if someone could explain to me what I need to change everything!
Thanks for the answer! You think that the turbo inlet is too long? This is not good, in which case I will look me straight to something else.
Do you think it just works to install a turbo drive approximately 0.4 - 0.5 bar boost pressure on? or do I change the fuel injectors too? I feel it difficult to durability. would like to go for a long time with this car;)
why should it not work? exhaust gas will of course only one way out and then have them pass the turbine wheel, it is clear that it will work, but you must ensure that the engine gets more fuel does not go lean!
I thought you did the same thing, but I think Lowryder might have been right! I got me worried now have a turbo from a Daihatsu Charade GtTi. This is even water cooling. The Charade is indeed a 3 cylinder 1000 cc. do you think is the better choice?
Dit you just at the turbo to a stock MPFI, without modifying anything? (except exhaust header + oil feed)
IC, I have not yet installed. But I have at home. at the moment it does not matter.
I have the temperature sensor with an adjustable resistor (rich mixture), the fuel pressure Elevated something. At full load, I have a lambda value of 0.83. Spark image was beautiful brown. With 0.3 bar it went perfectly!
It was only when I came to 0.7 bar Elevated problem. First, he is not running at 0.7 bar. He's at 4,000 rpm, the gas no longer accepted. The problem was the map sensor. Does anybody know how I can control the map with more boost pressure sensor correctly. Without it deregulates?
Last Edit: Jan 22, 2010 18:07:56 GMT -5 by sachsfan
You probably broke your ringlands with too much timing for your octane level. You can't tune a turbo engine properly by just reading plugs. The color changes too quickly once you let off of boost.
Technically you should make a boosted run, then shut off the ignition under full load and coast to a stop then read the plug. This has to be done with new sparkplugs installed beforehand as well. Also, if the heat range of your spark plug is too hot then when you read your plug it looks leaner than it is, so you would think that you needed to add more fuel; alternatively if your sparkplug is too cold, then it'll appear rich, and you could melt a piston by leaning it out to get the plug the proper "color". Not to mention that different fuels color a plug differently!
I tune with a wideband controller; I get my AFR correct, then look at the plugs. I am inspecting the plugs solely to see if I have the proper heatrange, as I already know from the wideband that my fueling is proper. For your information, I am running NGK BKR-7E plugs in my turbo Justy. They have the same snout length as the factory plugs, but are one step colder. Also, I have been turboed for almost 15months now without any problems, and know the plug heatrange to be ideal.
Also, to answer your question about the map sensor you could build a circuit like the one described at this site. This is a schematic for a "Fuel Cut Defender". It's purpose is to shunt the map sensor voltage at a certain point so that the ecu doesn't think there is a problem. It is adjustable by a potentiometer at R3, and with a little trial and error you will be able to boost more than 0.7BAR, as you can fool the computer into thinking that the engine is only seeing 0.5BAR etc.
Edit link that works. Gearheadeh You could also simply install a check-valve inline with the mapsensor and prevent it from seeing any boost pressure at all. This method works well provided you have the means of measuring the boost pressure with another device such as an AFC, E-manage, etc that can accomodate the needs of the engine with respect to timing and fuel when the factory ecu cannot.
Last Edit: Mar 25, 2013 10:41:33 GMT -5 by gearheadeh
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