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Sept 7, 2009 4:51:35 GMT -5
Post by Raw Justyce! on Sept 7, 2009 4:51:35 GMT -5
Put 2 12"s in the rear on a 1000watt 2-channel three days ago. Fully wired the system with two buddies from a local import shop. Two days ago my alternator burned out due to being overworked. Just bought it 3 months ago. The good news is the warranty expired a week and a half ago. Oh wait... there is no good news. That Justy was BLASTING for those two days though. You could hear bass from a little over 500ft away. Had both subs pointed at the back hatch with my 6x9s over top. Unfortunately they're out of the car and in the Jeep already. Anyone know where to find a high output alternator that works for an '88?
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Sept 10, 2009 13:41:31 GMT -5
Post by RedRooJusty on Sept 10, 2009 13:41:31 GMT -5
I too am interested in fitting a larger alternator, mine for the purpose of aux lighting +. I have been looking around for articles on this subject, what I find is that most people end up making custom brackets to mount some random alternator they found. By design Subaru only fitted an alternator that would run at 90% with a full load on the system, as it is common to leave some overhead %. I believe that mine is only 38A output (~34A = 90%) and I have been able measure 29A of peak load by unplugging the alternator and shunting the battery. Above the power needs of the car, I have about 9 amps. My Aux lighting is at 110w for ~9.16 amps @12vdc. I am currently looking for at least a 55amp alternator.
For your 1000w amp, Ohm's law @12vdc would indicate you are adding 83amps of peak load to the system. You are looking for at least a 100amp alternator to support this (the RMS of the amplifier would be more like 60amps).
Have you considered using a 3/4 farad Cap to buffer the transient loads of the amp? This would keep the alternator from running max output as well.
(((correction -- I have a 55amp alternator by part# not 38)))
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Sept 10, 2009 14:41:02 GMT -5
Post by ultima on Sept 10, 2009 14:41:02 GMT -5
Shouldn't be too hard to build a custom bracket for some other alternator, but then if it's a bigger one it will also take more power from the engine...
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Sept 10, 2009 15:47:17 GMT -5
Post by RacerJames on Sept 10, 2009 15:47:17 GMT -5
+1 on the capacator. 1 farad per 1000w as I recall
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Sept 10, 2009 16:31:21 GMT -5
Post by RedRooJusty on Sept 10, 2009 16:31:21 GMT -5
I second the suggestion for a 1 Farad Cap.
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Sept 10, 2009 21:34:18 GMT -5
Post by Raw Justyce! on Sept 10, 2009 21:34:18 GMT -5
I've been looking at different high output alternators to put in instead of a stock replacement considering most of them are cheaper. This time I'm not going to half ass the stereo install :/ I've never installed an alternator from a different make or model car. What would be things that I need to look for to ensure that it will work on my car?
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Sept 19, 2009 19:57:28 GMT -5
Post by lowryde on Sept 19, 2009 19:57:28 GMT -5
some dodge grand caravans came with 110A altornatrs they mount simaler to justy and can be had dirt cheap from a wreaker
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Sept 20, 2009 22:33:24 GMT -5
Post by Raw Justyce! on Sept 20, 2009 22:33:24 GMT -5
Anyone ever put a higher output alternator in their Justy? I recall a friend installing a high output in a Chevy P/U and then we had to replace most of the wiring harness.
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ruaphunz
My 'lil' thunder from down under
Posts: 12
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Sept 21, 2009 16:20:26 GMT -5
Post by ruaphunz on Sept 21, 2009 16:20:26 GMT -5
HI, my alt burnt out (well seized really) some time ago, I did not want to put a second hand unit in so had mine rebuilt by the auto electrical shop. Due to the increased load above standard with a custom stereo, modified lights etc and problems I had when he rebuilt the alt it was modified to accomodate the extra electrical load with increased output(there was also another small mod made to the car under the bonnet but havn't got a clue what he replaced) It cost me a bit more than usual but I have piece of mind and no 'odd ball' fitted part to worry about. Either way after 6months or so I have had no issues or FLAT BATTERIES. I suggest having a talk with a good auto electrician. Cheers
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SeattleJusty
No, a boxer will not fit in a Justy.
Posts: 1,587
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Sept 21, 2009 16:44:33 GMT -5
Post by SeattleJusty on Sept 21, 2009 16:44:33 GMT -5
Bravo sir! This is the kind of mind we need on more Justy owners. Instead of taking the cheapest route and frankenfixing something together, you took the extra time and extra dollar to do something proper. Please report back again at the end of the year and tell us how it has held up
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ruaphunz
My 'lil' thunder from down under
Posts: 12
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Sept 22, 2009 9:50:53 GMT -5
Post by ruaphunz on Sept 22, 2009 9:50:53 GMT -5
NO Worries SJ, Only one slight fly in the ointment at the mo. My 'lil' thunder from down under has a dead ignition module, so is parked up (unrelated issue to alt) no bugger down here sells the modules!!!!! BUT.............. the stereo works awesome and headlights light up the garage great!!! still no flat battery!! LOL.
Cheers
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Sept 22, 2009 15:48:10 GMT -5
Post by streetruler on Sept 22, 2009 15:48:10 GMT -5
being as how ours mounts id think one from like a muscle car magazine or somehting (they always use custom ones) would fit with the right spacer(s)
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Sept 22, 2009 23:46:07 GMT -5
Post by Raw Justyce! on Sept 22, 2009 23:46:07 GMT -5
Just repaired the alternator today. Turns out a small wire inside just melted. Replaced it with the same kind of wire, took a sub out and dropped to a 370 watt 2 channel. Things were going great then my ignition stopped working Its unrelated, but I seem to have horrible electrical luck with all my cars. Of course, my previous cars were volkswagens which have some of the worst electrical systems next to land rovers, but either way... unlucky! Hoping its just my ignition switch. Fingers crossed. As far as installing a new alternator for a different vehicle I had the owner of a local audio shop check it out (really cool, knowledgeable dude), and he suggested that, if I needed more power, I have an automotive electrician beef up an OEM unit as ruaphunz did! So GJ Ruap. You did the smart thing.
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Sept 23, 2009 1:57:02 GMT -5
Post by RedRooJusty on Sept 23, 2009 1:57:02 GMT -5
I have been an u.s.navy aircraft electrician (8yrs), started as an car stereo installer (3yrs before that), and am currently a mechanical engineer.
The justy charging system is not designed for 40+ amps of added load. Adding a new (or modified) internal regulator to the stock alternator can only yield a voltage gain for a couple more amps of output, not to mention the higher voltage will shorten the life of the battery. The number of windings in the alternator is always the same. There is no magic dust an electrician can sprinkle on a stock alternator to significantly boost its output. Some Alternators have a front casing that can be bolted to a larger winding pack + regulator though, thus changing the number of windings and producing a great deal more output. Basically I would salvage the stock front casing and bolt a larger alternator "core" up onto it. With some keen measurements one can make these alternator mods, or pay a shop to do it. This is far more difficult for the backyard mechanic than just fabricating a new mounting bracket for some other alternator to fit. Besides if the modified alternator fails sometime down the road, you will pay a premium for custom rebuild, or be stuck with a off-the-shelf stock. I am not tying to promote fanken-fixin just expressing different viewpoints.
On the topic of balancing your electrical system for added load: Just like adding a heavy power line to the amplifier for the load side, you will have to add a heavy power line (alternator to the battery) to the charge side.
Giving a complete disregard to the mechanical draw on the engine that a bigger alternator will require, here is what I would give as two cents. 1. Upgrade the charge system to handle the new load (alternator and charge output line). 2. Give a deeper cycle battery to the system (spiral cell tech should fit, more cca is the key). 3. Add a stiffening cap to the biggest load (amplifier power line) this can allow you to cheat the big alternator need and let you use a ~65amp alternator.
----------------------------------------------------------------------- Raw Justyce!, being a fellow Justy driver and that I live across town I would be happy to help you upgrade your system, as the problem solving would work forward for both of our machines. I am just adding aux lights and two 10" stage-1 subs driven by one 300w amp. Send me a personal message and lets work together on this. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ** I am still looking for a "close" fitting 55-65amp alternator **
I am not trying to deter anyone from adding big amplifiers, you just need to balance the system if you do.
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Sept 23, 2009 20:14:22 GMT -5
Post by Raw Justyce! on Sept 23, 2009 20:14:22 GMT -5
All very valuable information RedRoo. I'd most certainly be willing to come by if I can get the justy running again. Seems my bad luck led to a burnt out ignition (hopefully just an ignition switch). I'll shoot you a PM when I get it fixed, or if you're getting antsy shoot me a PM, and I'd be happy to come out and help just for the learning experience. Electrical has always been my weakside when it comes to things automotive (not to say I have a strong side ).
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Nov 27, 2009 15:12:47 GMT -5
Post by plugitin on Nov 27, 2009 15:12:47 GMT -5
i have a 200amp alt from a 94 stang on my justy currently...
and btw...capacitors are a no no...just a band aid fix.
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Nov 27, 2009 22:14:08 GMT -5
Post by RedRooJusty on Nov 27, 2009 22:14:08 GMT -5
**plugitin** you did not notice my posting above, Giving a complete disregard to the mechanical draw on the engine that a bigger alternator will require, here is what I would give as two cents. 1. Upgrade the charge system to handle the new load (alternator and charge output line). 2. Give a deeper cycle battery to the system (spiral cell tech should fit, more cca is the key). 3. Add a stiffening cap to the biggest load (amplifier power line) this can allow you to cheat the big alternator need and let you use a ~65amp alternator. #1 add bigger alternator. Example: At 12v, 1000w adds 83amps of "peak" load to the charging system, with every other load of the car @ ~30amps, you would need ~113amp alternator to sustain this. My "cheat" comment is due to the knowledge that the amp load is rarely sustained at peak load. Even in heavy bass, the initial "Punch" of the waveform draws the peak power, after that the load drops to RMS on the amplified waveform when sustaining the tone. Yes overloading your alternator will cause it to drop off (shifting the load to the battery), but the Cap can keep the peak load from shutting down your alternator (and is cheating) . i have a 200amp alt from a 94 stang on my justy currently... and btw...capacitors are a no no...just a band aid fix. It is all about how much power you need for your amp. Most people are not adding more than few hundred watts to the load of their charging system, and the cap is a yes yes for any amp pulling load from the alternator. If you know anything about a "stiffening" cap, it smooths the harsh spikes of transient loading that your amp draws from the system. What you end up with is at smooth rise and fall of amp load. Also helping to prevent the alternator from eating the load spike. Remember that the alternator is running at a regulated voltage that is higher than the battery voltage. The alternator (~14v) will take the load first, even if you have added ten (12v) batteries in the system. The stiffening cap stores a reserve of power at the same voltage as your alternator, so the cap takes the load spike when in the circuit. When you add batteries to buffer the amp loads, they need to be behind an in-line isolator, allowing charging for the added batteries and to prevent transient load spikes from destroying the alternator. Hey man, could you post a picture of that 200amp alternator fitted into your Justy , way cool btw. -RRJ
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Jul 24, 2014 7:08:05 GMT -5
Post by advid on Jul 24, 2014 7:08:05 GMT -5
Hi! I guess this topic has a name crazy enough to put my problem here. I have a new Subaru Justy (1998) and the radio doesn't work. First I removed it and checked cables. Some of them were too loose to slid from the "connector box". So I fixed them and after this the radio played. So i put it back in the socket but then it didn't play again. So I removed it again and try to check it thoroughly but everything seems to be alright. Except three cables that are "free" and lead nowhere. One of them is marked as ""MUTE". I found out a wiring diagram but colors don't fit to colors of my cables. I attach pictures of my wiring, the wiring diagram i found and the front panel of the radio. If you have any advice, thank you in advance. I need either right diagram or a opinion from somebody who had similar problem.
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Post by skimo274 on Aug 9, 2014 11:22:15 GMT -5
There is a company in western Washington that makes custom alternators to fit all your needs. I just don't remember what the company is.
Some of them have little gearbox looking things on them. I'll try to find it and post a link
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