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Post by blacklight on Sept 22, 2009 12:27:50 GMT -5
ferox. Looked around briefly for a while and found that my car actually have a headlight relay, which isn't mentioned on my model in the manual... :S Seems fair that the theory about an external ((?)look at stacks's theory above) FPCU is strengthened by the fact that all data isn't in the manual... :S stacks: I changed the fuelpump to an other which I had mounted on an other identical car. Only thing left that I can think of is bad ground, but then it should effect the performance constantly, right? All: Got a mail back from a skilled Subaru mechanic which I have dialogued a bit with to diagnose the problem, and he said that Subaru has discontinued the carburetor for my car. might be possible to get a acceleration pump though. He will look into it. If i don't get it to work, I'm thinking of buying a MegaSquirt to convert it into fuel injection. Heard that a considerable amount of HP can be acquired by doing this, and that the fuel consumption is heavily reduced by this, too. Sincerely, Magnus.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2009 23:00:11 GMT -5
I am not sure if there is something lost in the translation or what, but based on your symptoms you've got a fuel regulation or fuel delivery problem.
Most likely it's fuel regulation, a new needle and seat from a Justy carb kit should work even if the rest of the kit doesn't. It will cost you $30 US.
The only time I have seen a functional fuel pump not deliver adequate fuel is when the FPCU is defective. It could cost you $5 US to fix.
That's it
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Post by blacklight on Sept 26, 2009 16:18:02 GMT -5
ferox: There's definetly a fuelrelated problem. I just haven't had the time to search for an FPCU lately. :/ Got a time at Subaru 9th October, and we'll see what tit might be, and how much it'll cost me... Sincerely; Magnus.
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Sept 30, 2009 8:25:33 GMT -5
the deliveryline is an 8 mm hose and the returnline is an 6 mm hose, so it's almost impossible to get it wrong. You're at least a decent eyeballer, can you take another look at the timing again? About the cambelt... Yes, it's still off by ½ cog, but since it's hard to see where the mark should be (long distance between matching marks), I'm guessing. Do you think you could get us a picture of all this before it's too late? I'm still at a loss as to how the belt can be half a cog off; the teeth on the belt have to sit down in between cogs. So, the camshaft pulley is not properly timed with the crankshaft? Please, can you at least draw us a diagram of the timing marks? If you may have said already I'm sorry, but by what means are you sure of the timing marks; do you have the manual? *edit: Yeah, the fuel pump diagram! Can I see the engine timing instructions? Wouldn't it be best for the toaster to be timed correctly before the ninth? The spirit this forum needs! Feeling great anticipation, Danimal
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Post by blacklight on Oct 1, 2009 12:44:01 GMT -5
Danimal: Great... Another evening with a glass of The Famous Grouse (whiskey. 21 year old) and the camera... Allright. I'll take some pic's from the workshop manual (Subaru original), and I'll tear my way into the cam belt cover in the weekend. Sincerely, Magnus. (Added later) Instead of inserting all the pic's, here's a link to an album instead. img89.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc2235.jpg
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Oct 2, 2009 10:36:45 GMT -5
Allright. I'll take some pic's from the workshop manual (Subaru original), and I'll tear my way into the cam belt cover in the weekend. Wow, thanks for all that! The timing marks look just like my own. Before you change anything be sure that it isn't already correct. I'm very interested to see how wrong it is and help you get it in the right position. If the cam pulley position is off by half of a cog but the crankshaft is in the right position: the belt will have to be tighter or looser between the two points on the side without the tensioner. I recommend tighter and then lock the tensioner into position so that the cam pulley cannot slip backwards and out of time with the bottom end. My book mentions nothing of measuring the slack; hopefully someone will speak up now if they can help us with that. My Chilton's looks like the same image at a different angle: Good luck this weekend, I hope the weather is nice. -Danimal
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Post by blacklight on Oct 5, 2009 10:48:09 GMT -5
Hi Danimal + company.
I've only been able to refit the carburetor again during the weekend because of shity weather and me having a cold (bad combo). I'll get right back to work ASAP.
-Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Oct 9, 2009 12:13:14 GMT -5
Hi all (again...)
Today I left my little 4WD toaster at Subaru. Hopefully they will find the problem and sort it out. I'll report back as soon as I know anything else.
Sincerely; Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Oct 15, 2009 6:37:43 GMT -5
While waiting for new results from subaru (who I btw. are gonna call today to check on progress), check out this vid with some slovakians (?) playing with the libero, and really pointing out how well it climbs in steep angles. www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJmDBsBIHwsSincerely, Magnus.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2009 0:16:24 GMT -5
What's the word Magnus?
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Post by blacklight on Nov 10, 2009 7:13:29 GMT -5
ferox Just gave the guys at Subaru a call. They haven't found the problem either. :S They did solve the problem with the non-working accelerating pump. Proved to be a clogged channel. Hopefully I can get it back home tomorrow, and then I'll try some last ideas before converting it to fuel injection using MegaSquirt (see www.megasquirt.info ) Hopefully I'll be able to use the injectors from my fathers Subaru Leone (L1800) and some other stuff. My idea is to use the carb only as a housing for the Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT) and as a throttle valve housing. Some modificataions is needed to the intake manifold however, and I'm not sure if I can use the above stated injectors, depending on flowrate and ohm. It's gonna be a big hole in my wallet, but according to calculations, I've saved it up in about a year in reduced fuelcosts. Later on, I'm thinking of creating an other fuel-table for it to run on ethanol (E85), heavily reducing fuel price/liter. Running on ethanol in summer reducers price then, running on gasoline in winter eases startup in cold weather. These are my plans. If anyone has made a similar convertment, and have a pic of the fuel- and sparktables, let me know. //Magnus.
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Post by blacklight on Nov 12, 2009 16:57:39 GMT -5
Got one , last idea. I can lower the floatlevel drastic, to see if the main air bleed air actually reaches the emulsion tube. If it doesn't, it means that either the channel is clogged, or that the float level is to high, blocking the hole leading to the main nozzle in the venturi.
Good theory?
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Post by blacklight on Nov 17, 2009 9:07:46 GMT -5
Ok. So I lowerd the floatlevel about 2-4 mm (just to prove wether it would make any difference). It didn't. Same problem. Anyone got any ideas, 'cause I'm out...
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Danimal
Getting my two Justys back together after a Justy hiatus.
Posts: 589
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Post by Danimal on Nov 17, 2009 9:50:13 GMT -5
Anyone got any ideas, 'cause I'm out... Verify timing accuracy? Did Subaru check that for you? I'm guessing you had it right and just weren't sure. Can you customize the intake manifold and/or a similar carburettor to make it fit?; might be less work than trying to fuel inject E85. -Danimal -Danimal
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Post by blacklight on Nov 22, 2009 19:13:14 GMT -5
Danimal: Can check that again, this time with photos for 'ya all. Customizing the manifold or the throttlevalve housing is way out of my leauge. The coolant runs through the manifold and turns toward a little "pit" in the throttlevalve body. If I anyway get that to work, I still have to customize some sort of adapter to make a similar carburetor fit. Converting it to E85 is WAY ahead, and not as high prio'd as getting the little toaster to run well. I've goten the MS 2 V3 ECU, and I've built a relay-board for it too. I have a TPS and a connector for it. I have 3 injector connector and some other wireing. Now I just have to find injectors in the right size (flowrate) and a fuelpressure regulator. Anyone know the flowrate of the Subaru Leone (L1800) on the EA82 engine? My dad has one of these engines just laying around, so if I can find out the flowrate, I can use those injectors and injector sockets. I have a long way to go though. Winter is coming here, and I have no access to a garage... -Magnus
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Post by watchdoc on Dec 11, 2009 22:00:41 GMT -5
Sounds like a classic plugged cat. Fire it up. point your IR thermometer at the front of the cat and then the back. Should see at least 100 degrees difference. If you don't have an IR thermometer (cheap at Harbor Freight), disconnect the headpipe/cat assy at the exhaust manifold, bear the racket and see if it revs up.
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Post by blacklight on Jan 10, 2010 10:42:08 GMT -5
Cat is clear, or at least not the problem. Disconnected the pipe between the exhaust manifold and the cat (makes the car sound like a V8, by the way) and tried reving it. No change. Thinking of force-feeding the fuelpump directly from a separate battery to outrule any broken wires in the harness.
-Magnus.
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Post by justypro on Jan 24, 2010 19:00:24 GMT -5
didnt read the whole post, but i know you replaced the fuel pump and other related items. But have you actually done a fuel pressure test?, because it sounds to me like its not getting enough fuel off idle, and you could have all new components but you may not be getting the pressure you need to keep the carb full. Just a thought. i may have to go back and read the whole thing...lol just being lazy.
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Post by blacklight on Feb 22, 2010 13:37:53 GMT -5
Sorry, no. I haven't tested the fuel pressure yet, but I will.
An interesting thing is though discovered...
I attached a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and idled the engine until it was warm. (Radiator-fan begins rotating). At idle, the vacuum seems to bounce a little up and down (might have to do with the position of the nipple I attached the gauge to), but the needle stableize when I increase RPM just a little. At higher RPM, the vacuum reading doesn't seem right at all, since it drops instantly when I go to full throttle. My latest theory, based on the above symptoms, is that the intake manifold gasket is leaking somewhere, and that the shape of both the manifold and the engine crankcase is hampering tests with starting gas (spraycan with ether and other flammable gases) to reach the leak, thereby not detectable using this method.
Does this seem likely?
Sincerely; Magnus.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2010 13:57:39 GMT -5
At higher RPM, the vacuum reading doesn't seem right at all, since it drops instantly when I go to full throttle. That's what it is supposed to do. Sounds like it is functioning correctly. My latest theory, based on the above symptoms, is that the intake manifold gasket is leaking somewhere, and that the shape of both the manifold and the engine crankcase is hampering tests with starting gas (spraycan with ether and other flammable gases) to reach the leak, thereby not detectable using this method. Does this seem likely? Nope, did you ask the Subaru mechanic about the Fuel Pump Control Unit? You know, making an aluminum adapter plate for another carburetor is actually really easy. You could fit a Weber 32/36 on, within a day. Of course you still need 2-3 psi of fuel pressure. Good luck.
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