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Author | Topic: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics (Read 8,945 times) |
Dunk Administrator
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![[avatar] [avatar]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/27122009064.jpg)
EF12 Turbo 12psi
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Joined: Jun 2005 Gender: Male  Posts: 575 Location: Surrey, UK
|  | Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Thread Started on Feb 13, 2007, 4:08pm » | |
Thanks Scoobaru, here they are 
Pic1 is out of place, I'll come back to it
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/1B-ThrottleLinkageShaft.jpg)
Pic2 This collection basically comes from starting to disassemble starting from the throttle cable attachment side. Parts pictured (from left) air cleaner gasket, throttle return spring and boot, then parts in order as they were removed from the throttle shaft. Big dashpot assembly in the middle is the idle up mechanism. To the right side of the pic is the accelerating pump lever, and throttle cable attaching cam.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/1-Throttlelinkage.jpg)
Pic3 Carb while still whole. On the right is the auto choke mechanism, including the two smaller dashpots on the front right. All this portion was basically removed in the final product.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/2-Carb-whole.jpg)
Pic4 So the carb is in three main sections, the choke chamber is on top, the float chamber in the middle, and the throttle chamber on the bottom. This is a pic of the topside of the float chamber after the choke chamber has been removed. Choke chamber is held on by four or five screws, you'll be able to see them. The spring I am holding sits in this opening loosely, and take note that there is a little ball bearing that sits under the spring. Notice on the spring that side that goes down has a little loop on it that sits on top of the ball bearing.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/3-Spring.jpg)
Pic5 Injector weight, again sits loose in this spot.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/4-Injectorweight.jpg)
Pic6 Antidieseling switch
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/5-AntiDieselingSwitch.jpg)
Pic7 Antidieseling switch removed. Plunger will be loose inside it.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/6-AntiDieselingSwitchRemoved.jpg)
Pic8 This is the connecting rod for the secondary diaphragm (Large dashpot on right). This dashpot used vacuum to open up the secondary butterfly valve. Disconnect rod where indicated.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/7-SecondaryDiaphragmLinkage.jpg)
Pic9 This is the bottom view of the previously removed choke chamber (top portion of carb.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/8-ChokeChamber-BottomView.jpg)
Pic10 Closer view of 9. Highlights are float on left, with duty solenoid (shiny gold cylinder in middle) and the accelerating pump plunger below that.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/9-ChokeChamberBottomView.jpg)
Pic11 This is a bottom view of the carb, showing the gasket between the carb and the intake manifold. Once this gasket is removed, you will see three screws that hold the throttle chamber to the float chamber. These can be removed to take the bottom two sections apart.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/10-ThrottleChamberBottomView.jpg)
Pic12 Bottom view of the float chamber
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/13-ThrottleChamberTopView.jpg)
Pic13 Back to the choke chamber. This is the accelerating pump plunger which will be pulled out from this side. But not until.....
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/14-AcceleratingPumpPiston.jpg)
Pic14 ....removing the rubber boot from the top
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/15-AcceleratingPumpPistonBoot.jpg)
Pic15 The float.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/16-Float.jpg)
Pic16 Closeup of float valve. Note how the needle valve hangs on the tab of the float. This tab can be bent to adjust the float clearance.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/17-FloatNeedleValve.jpg)
Pic17 Seat for float needle valve. This was tough to remove, very tight. Fortunately the rebuild kit I had included this seat, so I didn't have to be too careful, just need to get it out!
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/18-FloatNeedleValveSeat.jpg)
Pic18 Main electrical connector. This must be disconnected from the main wiring harness at the rear of the carb when removing the carb from the motor
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/19-Connector.jpg)
Pic19 The white and yellow wire are for the duty solenoid, but must be removed from the connector to allow removal of the solenoid. On the 88 carb I had, this was done by depressing a tab on the inside of the connector (one tab for each lead). The leads then just pull out.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/20-DutySolenoidValveLeads.jpg)
Pic20 Duty solenoid is held in by the three screws indicated. Note that once the duty solenoid is removed, there are jets in each end of it that may be gummed up. I tried to removed these jets with no luck, and only succeeded in breaking off the black tab I am pointing to on the right of the picture. The leads that were removed from the connector attach to the top of this black tab, running through a gasket in the carb.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/21-DutySolenoidValve.jpg)
Pic21 The first of many jets to remove, this one being called the primary slow air bleed. Note this picture was actually taken after a bunch of other stuff was removed, then I noticed this jet had not been removed. Care is needed when removing the jets, make sure you have a screwdriver that fits nice and snug. For some of the recessed jets, a slotted screwdriver that doesn't flare out (ie-is the same diameter all the way down) would work best. I believe somebody mentioned that these were called cabinet screwdrivers. Another note, all these jets/bleeds are labeled with a number, I will make note of these where I was able to read them.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/22-PrimarySlowAirBleed.jpg)
Pic22 Secondary Slow Air Bleed
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/23-SecondarySlowAirBleed.jpg)
Pic23 Switch Vent Solenoid Valve. Held on by two screws.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/24-SwitchVentSolenoidValve.jpg)
Pic24 Choke heater electrical connection.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/25-ChokeHeaterWire.jpg)
Pic25 The above were all from the choke chamber. Now starting on the float chamber. Primary Main Air Bleed (#105)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/26-PrimaryMainAirBleed105.jpg)
Pic26 Secondary Main Air Bleed (#100)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/27-SecondaryMainAirBleed100.jpg)
Pic27 Primary Plug. Once removed you will see Primary Slow Jet (#52) in the hole under it.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/28-PrimaryPlugPrimarySlowJet52.jpg)
Pic28 These plugs must be removed to allow access to Primary Main Jet (#90) and the Secondary Main Jet (#135). These are removed by inserting a screwdriver through the holes occupied by the plugs.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/29-Primary90Secondary135MainJets.jpg)
Pic29 Secondary diaphragm hose
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/30-SecondaryDiaphragmHose.jpg)
Pic30 Secondary diaphragm, take these two screws out to remove.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/31-SecondaryDiaphragmScrews.jpg)
Pic31 Now down to the throttle chamber. This is the idle speed adjusting screw, just screw out to remove. Note the tab that it hits against on the throttle shaft to control your idle speed. This screw is on the rear driver side of the carb when it is installed. Screw it in to increase idle speed.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/32-IdleAdjustingScrewSpring.jpg)
Pic32 Idle mixture adjusting screw housing
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/33-IdleMixtureScrewHousing.jpg)
Pic33 Idle mixture adjusting screw. Note that there should be a plug in this opening that must be removed to access the screw (this carb didn't have the plug, so it must have been previously removed). The manual says you can drill it out to remove, but I tried to get a plug out of another carb and gave up after busting a couple of bits. *NOTE* BEFORE YOU REMOVE THIS SCREW!! Screw the adjusting screw in and count the number of turns it takes until it hits a stop (ie-it is screwed all the way in.) This gives you a reference for reassembly. If anybody does this, I would appreciate knowing how many turns this is. I neglected to do this on my dissassemble, and I am not sure if I am getting this adjustment right now.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/34-IdleMixtureScrew.jpg)
Pic34 Idle mixture adjusting screw assembly. Look for damage on point of screw (on left in pic)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/35-IdleMixtureScrewRemoved.jpg)
Pic35 Just a stub of vacuum hose that was left with the carb when it was removed. This runs to a tee connection with a couple of other vacuum hoses on the rear of the carb.
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/36-StubHoseToTee.jpg)
Out of time for now, I will carry on with this later!!
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/37-ThrottleValveShaftNut.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/38-ThrottleValveShaftSpring.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/39B-ButterflyValves.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/39-ButterflyValves.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/40-ThrottleValveShaftSpring.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/41-ThrottleValveShaftSpring2.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/42-ThrottleValveShaftSpring2.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/43-ThrottleValveShaftClip.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/44-PrimarySecondaryThrottleValveLin.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/45-ThrottleValveShaft.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/46-ThrottleValveShaft.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/47-ThrottleValveShaftSpring2.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/48-Disassembled.jpg)
![[image] [image]](http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/49-Dissasembled.jpg)

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Justy turbo project is dead..
1991 Justy GL2 4wd Turbo - Dead 1995 Rover Tomcat 1.6 A6/Z6 Mini-Me VTEC
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Scoobaru Moderator
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|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #1 on Feb 13, 2007, 5:02pm » | |
I will put some verbage to these when I get a chance.
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89
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got Mud? Ice? Snow?
Joined: Sept 2006 Gender: Male  Posts: 398 Location: Tri-State; (631), NY
|  | Yowsers! Thanks.... « Reply #2 on Feb 13, 2007, 8:41pm » | |

Yowsers! Thanks Scoob, Dunk!...
Holy Cr*p!! (And I though synching dual webers on alternate applications was murky business!) 
Dependiing on how my carb does (fine at the moment) looks like the next step would be toward FI.... in order to simplify and cut cost on things!?! 
What I want to know is how custom those custom MG Metro Turbo carb (SU?) to JUSTY conversions are... might actually ease things a bit also, eh?
Best Luck/Skill getting that thing back together, #89 1989 Subaru JUSTY RS 4WD 126, --- miles
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Scoobaru Moderator
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|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #3 on Feb 17, 2007, 12:44am » | |
Some verbage added, note that commentary is above picture it applies to. I will finish up the rest later. I also have a series of pics showing all the hose connections that were removed, these I will also get to later.
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44mag
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'86 2WD 1.0
Joined: Jan 2007 Gender: Male  Posts: 29 Location: Varna,Bulgaria
|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #4 on Apr 22, 2007, 3:34am » | |
Guys,mine hitachi has nothing common with this one. I have an '86 1000cc. with manual choke originally bought in Austria.Is it some european version?It appears to be the original for that car.Anyboby familiar with that sucker?
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...and Justys for all !!! |
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freeman
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|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #5 on Apr 27, 2007, 3:15pm » | |
hy Dunk ....
What mark it´s the carb Jústy´s ? HITACHI ..model?????
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Scoobaru Moderator
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|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #6 on Apr 27, 2007, 4:52pm » | |
It's a Hitachi, don't know the model, but I think I have seen it mentioned in a thread here before. Search....
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coal
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Lets roll. When I get rollin.
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male  Posts: 468 Location: Portland
|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #7 on Oct 14, 2007, 9:23pm » | |
The 87-88 carb is very similar to 89 and up. But different. Great pics.
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JLNW. |
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henrypaz
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Joined: Jul 2006 Gender: Male  Posts: 72 Location: Pulaski, Virginia
|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #8 on Mar 15, 2008, 6:12pm » | |
WOW---
This is AWSOME!!!!!!!!! I have been wanting to see just that for a long time now. The duty solenoid and all. Nice!!! Definitely bookmark this page. I,m only a beginner on Justys, but I think the carb looks like a Hitachi DFC328 for 1.2L.
Thanks for the great information!
My shop manual (1987 Justy) says to set mixture: warm engine, run at 800 + 50 RPM ( idle-up off ) , use a dwell meter to set mixture.
Dwell meter should read 0.90 X Duty Ratio ( Z ). Z is from a LINEAR graph. It starts at 36 degrees dwell / 164 feet of elevation and goes to 67.5 degrees / 2050 feet of elevation. I calculate this requires adding 0.61 degree for every 100 feet above 164 feet or the baseline.
So calculate Z, then look for 0.90 Z degrees dwell.
Hope that will help.
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blpsoup
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Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 73 Location: Eugene, Oregon
|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #9 on Apr 6, 2008, 10:17pm » | |
Here's something that I think may help people who are as confused as I was when I first started assaulting my carburetor. Don't ask how I got my hands on this.
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LurchtheeInsane
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'88 Justy GL FWD
Joined: Feb 2012 Gender: Male  Posts: 1 Location: Idaho
|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #10 on Aug 29, 2012, 2:08am » | |
I saw a picture that weberpower had in his PB account that had a number on the idle mixture housing of 4 3/4. That might be the correct number of turns. On a sadder note I need help with the automatic choke assembly. I need mostly pics and better diagrams since more I see show next to nothing. I torn it completely apart and found that my pics weren't good enough to help me out.
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Captain Nemo
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Iceburg? What iceburg?
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|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #11 on Sept 8, 2012, 3:11pm » | |
Apr 22, 2007, 3:34am, 44mag wrote:Guys,mine hitachi has nothing common with this one. I have an '86 1000cc. with manual choke originally bought in Austria.Is it some european version?It appears to be the original for that car.Anyboby familiar with that sucker? |
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Since the US/Canada never got the 1000cc version, Subaru never bothered with any of the emission control or ease of use (auto choke) add ons. The only real similarity is the secondary butterfly vacuum actuator (pic 8) and the anti dieseling switch (pic 6). My 1000cc carbs also have a small vacuum valve on the front side (pic 3) between the vacuum valves shown. This vacuum pot acts on a brass cylinder with a rubber sealing face on the end. Of the 4 old carbs I have and have stripped, 3 of the had badly worn or perished rubber faces and were not sealing properly. This seems to be a problem on 1000cc carbs. Not sure on what effect it would have though, but might be worth checking if running rough and nothing else works.
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They said the Earth was flat and the sun orbited the Earth. They said man was not ment to fly, and would never walk on the moon. They even said that a Justy would never float...... They were wrong. |
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88gl
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|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #12 on Feb 3, 2013, 10:03pm » | |
How does one go about replacing the duty solenoid alone? I have a code 14 CEL and I'm running rough.
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blacklight
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|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #13 on Feb 4, 2013, 5:52am » | |
Replacing the duty solenoid is a bitch, since it seems hard to find a new or working used one. Also, you need to carefully remove the metal pins of the connector for the duty sol. to be able to get the wires through the carb cover. Really stupid design, but I guess Subaru didn't expect it to fail ever so often.
OffTopic note: Anyone know WHY the solenoids fail? I have one that seems to not be working that I want to fix up.
//Magnus.
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"Where some see a problem, others see an opportunity. -Subaru" |
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88gl
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|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #14 on Feb 4, 2013, 12:32pm » | |
I found a tutorial on here of a way to repair a faulty duty solenoid. In his case there was a short in the internal wiring so he simply replaced the wires. I'm going to try that as well.
It sure looks like a PITA to remove this carb!
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hashim5003
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Joined: Dec 2012 Gender: Male  Posts: 28 Location: Pakistan
|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #15 on Feb 27, 2013, 12:47am » | |
in your above pic how does the butterfly works? i rebuild my carb and may be i am reassembling this point wrong, because when i apply accelerator only right side butterfly opens, if this is correct than, how second (left side) butterfly opens?
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blacklight
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|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #16 on Feb 27, 2013, 4:12am » | |
I believe the second barrel opens by means of vacuum to a dashpot.
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"Where some see a problem, others see an opportunity. -Subaru" |
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saqib777
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![[avatar] [avatar]](http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy5/dapower777/AUTOMOTIVE/Subaru%20Justy/My%20Car/Engine%20Bay/Carby/Justy_avatar_zps9bf85f18.jpg)
Justy 90
Joined: Jun 2010 Gender: Male  Posts: 58 Location: Pakistan
|  | Re: Carburator Mods - Part 2 + Pics « Reply #17 on Mar 4, 2013, 6:41am » | |
@hashim,
In my case, the 2nd barrel only opens after a certain throttle level. I think after 5k RPM.
While accelerating hard, there's a sort of boost felt when the 2nd barrel opens. Feels great!!
When I installed new clutch kit some years ago, I used to accelerate up to 90km/h in 2nd gear just for the sake of sheer joy... Shifting gears at 7K
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