Post by Dunk on Feb 13, 2007 16:08:56 GMT -5
Thanks Scoobaru, here they are ;D
Pic1 is out of place, I'll come back to it
Pic2 This collection basically comes from starting to disassemble starting from the throttle cable attachment side. Parts pictured (from left) air cleaner gasket, throttle return spring and boot, then parts in order as they were removed from the throttle shaft. Big dashpot assembly in the middle is the idle up mechanism. To the right side of the pic is the accelerating pump lever, and throttle cable attaching cam.
Pic3 Carb while still whole. On the right is the auto choke mechanism, including the two smaller dashpots on the front right. All this portion was basically removed in the final product.
Pic4 So the carb is in three main sections, the choke chamber is on top, the float chamber in the middle, and the throttle chamber on the bottom. This is a pic of the topside of the float chamber after the choke chamber has been removed. Choke chamber is held on by four or five screws, you'll be able to see them. The spring I am holding sits in this opening loosely, and take note that there is a little ball bearing that sits under the spring. Notice on the spring that side that goes down has a little loop on it that sits on top of the ball bearing.
Pic5 Injector weight, again sits loose in this spot.
Pic6 Antidieseling switch
Pic7 Antidieseling switch removed. Plunger will be loose inside it.
Pic8 This is the connecting rod for the secondary diaphragm (Large dashpot on right). This dashpot used vacuum to open up the secondary butterfly valve. Disconnect rod where indicated.
Pic9 This is the bottom view of the previously removed choke chamber (top portion of carb.
Pic10 Closer view of 9. Highlights are float on left, with duty solenoid (shiny gold cylinder in middle) and the accelerating pump plunger below that.
Pic11 This is a bottom view of the carb, showing the gasket between the carb and the intake manifold. Once this gasket is removed, you will see three screws that hold the throttle chamber to the float chamber. These can be removed to take the bottom two sections apart.
[http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/11-ThrottleChamberToFloatChamberBol.jpg/img]
Pic12 Bottom view of the float chamber
Pic13 Back to the choke chamber. This is the accelerating pump plunger which will be pulled out from this side. But not until.....
Pic14 ....removing the rubber boot from the top
Pic15 The float.
Pic16 Closeup of float valve. Note how the needle valve hangs on the tab of the float. This tab can be bent to adjust the float clearance.
Pic17 Seat for float needle valve. This was tough to remove, very tight. Fortunately the rebuild kit I had included this seat, so I didn't have to be too careful, just need to get it out!
Pic18 Main electrical connector. This must be disconnected from the main wiring harness at the rear of the carb when removing the carb from the motor
Pic19 The white and yellow wire are for the duty solenoid, but must be removed from the connector to allow removal of the solenoid. On the 88 carb I had, this was done by depressing a tab on the inside of the connector (one tab for each lead). The leads then just pull out.
Pic20 Duty solenoid is held in by the three screws indicated. Note that once the duty solenoid is removed, there are jets in each end of it that may be gummed up. I tried to removed these jets with no luck, and only succeeded in breaking off the black tab I am pointing to on the right of the picture. The leads that were removed from the connector attach to the top of this black tab, running through a gasket in the carb.
Pic21 The first of many jets to remove, this one being called the primary slow air bleed. Note this picture was actually taken after a bunch of other stuff was removed, then I noticed this jet had not been removed. Care is needed when removing the jets, make sure you have a screwdriver that fits nice and snug. For some of the recessed jets, a slotted screwdriver that doesn't flare out (ie-is the same diameter all the way down) would work best. I believe somebody mentioned that these were called cabinet screwdrivers. Another note, all these jets/bleeds are labeled with a number, I will make note of these where I was able to read them.
Pic22 Secondary Slow Air Bleed
Pic23 Switch Vent Solenoid Valve. Held on by two screws.
Pic24 Choke heater electrical connection.
Pic25 The above were all from the choke chamber. Now starting on the float chamber. Primary Main Air Bleed (#105)
Pic26 Secondary Main Air Bleed (#100)
Pic27 Primary Plug. Once removed you will see Primary Slow Jet (#52) in the hole under it.
Pic28 These plugs must be removed to allow access to Primary Main Jet (#90) and the Secondary Main Jet (#135). These are removed by inserting a screwdriver through the holes occupied by the plugs.
Pic29 Secondary diaphragm hose
Pic30 Secondary diaphragm, take these two screws out to remove.
Pic31 Now down to the throttle chamber. This is the idle speed adjusting screw, just screw out to remove. Note the tab that it hits against on the throttle shaft to control your idle speed. This screw is on the rear driver side of the carb when it is installed. Screw it in to increase idle speed.
Pic32 Idle mixture adjusting screw housing
Pic33 Idle mixture adjusting screw. Note that there should be a plug in this opening that must be removed to access the screw (this carb didn't have the plug, so it must have been previously removed). The manual says you can drill it out to remove, but I tried to get a plug out of another carb and gave up after busting a couple of bits. *NOTE* BEFORE YOU REMOVE THIS SCREW!! Screw the adjusting screw in and count the number of turns it takes until it hits a stop (ie-it is screwed all the way in.) This gives you a reference for reassembly. If anybody does this, I would appreciate knowing how many turns this is. I neglected to do this on my dissassemble, and I am not sure if I am getting this adjustment right now.
Pic34 Idle mixture adjusting screw assembly. Look for damage on point of screw (on left in pic)
Pic35 Just a stub of vacuum hose that was left with the carb when it was removed. This runs to a tee connection with a couple of other vacuum hoses on the rear of the carb.
Out of time for now, I will carry on with this later!!
;D
Pic1 is out of place, I'll come back to it
Pic2 This collection basically comes from starting to disassemble starting from the throttle cable attachment side. Parts pictured (from left) air cleaner gasket, throttle return spring and boot, then parts in order as they were removed from the throttle shaft. Big dashpot assembly in the middle is the idle up mechanism. To the right side of the pic is the accelerating pump lever, and throttle cable attaching cam.
Pic3 Carb while still whole. On the right is the auto choke mechanism, including the two smaller dashpots on the front right. All this portion was basically removed in the final product.
Pic4 So the carb is in three main sections, the choke chamber is on top, the float chamber in the middle, and the throttle chamber on the bottom. This is a pic of the topside of the float chamber after the choke chamber has been removed. Choke chamber is held on by four or five screws, you'll be able to see them. The spring I am holding sits in this opening loosely, and take note that there is a little ball bearing that sits under the spring. Notice on the spring that side that goes down has a little loop on it that sits on top of the ball bearing.
Pic5 Injector weight, again sits loose in this spot.
Pic6 Antidieseling switch
Pic7 Antidieseling switch removed. Plunger will be loose inside it.
Pic8 This is the connecting rod for the secondary diaphragm (Large dashpot on right). This dashpot used vacuum to open up the secondary butterfly valve. Disconnect rod where indicated.
Pic9 This is the bottom view of the previously removed choke chamber (top portion of carb.
Pic10 Closer view of 9. Highlights are float on left, with duty solenoid (shiny gold cylinder in middle) and the accelerating pump plunger below that.
Pic11 This is a bottom view of the carb, showing the gasket between the carb and the intake manifold. Once this gasket is removed, you will see three screws that hold the throttle chamber to the float chamber. These can be removed to take the bottom two sections apart.
[http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/spunkun/11-ThrottleChamberToFloatChamberBol.jpg/img]
Pic12 Bottom view of the float chamber
Pic13 Back to the choke chamber. This is the accelerating pump plunger which will be pulled out from this side. But not until.....
Pic14 ....removing the rubber boot from the top
Pic15 The float.
Pic16 Closeup of float valve. Note how the needle valve hangs on the tab of the float. This tab can be bent to adjust the float clearance.
Pic17 Seat for float needle valve. This was tough to remove, very tight. Fortunately the rebuild kit I had included this seat, so I didn't have to be too careful, just need to get it out!
Pic18 Main electrical connector. This must be disconnected from the main wiring harness at the rear of the carb when removing the carb from the motor
Pic19 The white and yellow wire are for the duty solenoid, but must be removed from the connector to allow removal of the solenoid. On the 88 carb I had, this was done by depressing a tab on the inside of the connector (one tab for each lead). The leads then just pull out.
Pic20 Duty solenoid is held in by the three screws indicated. Note that once the duty solenoid is removed, there are jets in each end of it that may be gummed up. I tried to removed these jets with no luck, and only succeeded in breaking off the black tab I am pointing to on the right of the picture. The leads that were removed from the connector attach to the top of this black tab, running through a gasket in the carb.
Pic21 The first of many jets to remove, this one being called the primary slow air bleed. Note this picture was actually taken after a bunch of other stuff was removed, then I noticed this jet had not been removed. Care is needed when removing the jets, make sure you have a screwdriver that fits nice and snug. For some of the recessed jets, a slotted screwdriver that doesn't flare out (ie-is the same diameter all the way down) would work best. I believe somebody mentioned that these were called cabinet screwdrivers. Another note, all these jets/bleeds are labeled with a number, I will make note of these where I was able to read them.
Pic22 Secondary Slow Air Bleed
Pic23 Switch Vent Solenoid Valve. Held on by two screws.
Pic24 Choke heater electrical connection.
Pic25 The above were all from the choke chamber. Now starting on the float chamber. Primary Main Air Bleed (#105)
Pic26 Secondary Main Air Bleed (#100)
Pic27 Primary Plug. Once removed you will see Primary Slow Jet (#52) in the hole under it.
Pic28 These plugs must be removed to allow access to Primary Main Jet (#90) and the Secondary Main Jet (#135). These are removed by inserting a screwdriver through the holes occupied by the plugs.
Pic29 Secondary diaphragm hose
Pic30 Secondary diaphragm, take these two screws out to remove.
Pic31 Now down to the throttle chamber. This is the idle speed adjusting screw, just screw out to remove. Note the tab that it hits against on the throttle shaft to control your idle speed. This screw is on the rear driver side of the carb when it is installed. Screw it in to increase idle speed.
Pic32 Idle mixture adjusting screw housing
Pic33 Idle mixture adjusting screw. Note that there should be a plug in this opening that must be removed to access the screw (this carb didn't have the plug, so it must have been previously removed). The manual says you can drill it out to remove, but I tried to get a plug out of another carb and gave up after busting a couple of bits. *NOTE* BEFORE YOU REMOVE THIS SCREW!! Screw the adjusting screw in and count the number of turns it takes until it hits a stop (ie-it is screwed all the way in.) This gives you a reference for reassembly. If anybody does this, I would appreciate knowing how many turns this is. I neglected to do this on my dissassemble, and I am not sure if I am getting this adjustment right now.
Pic34 Idle mixture adjusting screw assembly. Look for damage on point of screw (on left in pic)
Pic35 Just a stub of vacuum hose that was left with the carb when it was removed. This runs to a tee connection with a couple of other vacuum hoses on the rear of the carb.
Out of time for now, I will carry on with this later!!
;D