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Post by austing on Apr 2, 2013 14:19:09 GMT -5
Hello,
A few months ago, I found an '88 4wd/5spd, for my Brother; it is fitted with a Weber Carburetor, and it only has one vacuum hose from the distributor attached, the lower port on the Distributor doesn't even have a hose on it.
So my question: Those of you who have chosen to replace the stock carb., with a Weber, where on the Weber Carb do you attach the vacuum hose from the lower of the two ports on the Distributor?
Thanks, my Brother really looks forward to my getting his Justy on the road.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2013 22:04:22 GMT -5
Hello, A few months ago, I found an '88 4wd/5spd, for my Brother; it is fitted with a Weber Carburetor, and it only has one vacuum hose from the distributor attached, the lower port on the Distributor doesn't even have a hose on it. So my question: Those of you who have chosen to replace the stock carb., with a Weber, where on the Weber Carb do you attach the vacuum hose from the lower of the two ports on the Distributor? Thanks, my Brother really looks forward to my getting his Justy on the road. Is there a vacuum nipple below the choke housing?
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Post by austing on Apr 3, 2013 10:18:46 GMT -5
Hmm, I'll check.
I wanted to ask before I just went and started attaching vacuum hoses... I've had bad experiences with that in the past
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Post by austing on Apr 3, 2013 17:41:05 GMT -5
Okay, So I've looked at the carburetor, and there appears to be another vacuum port on the carb -it is located right beside the port which has the one hose that is connected to the distributor- It is stopped off (obviously done by the previous owner) The previous owner did a real hack job with all of the repairs that he attempted to this car.
So let me ask: Do both of the vacuum lines from the distributor attach near eachother on the back of the Carb?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2013 21:34:39 GMT -5
Okay, So I've looked at the carburetor, and there appears to be another vacuum port on the carb -it is located right beside the port which has the one hose that is connected to the distributor- It is stopped off (obviously done by the previous owner) The previous owner did a real hack job with all of the repairs that he attempted to this car. So let me ask: Do both of the vacuum lines from the distributor attach near eachother on the back of the Carb? The second one is typically used for an egr valve, but it's ported vacuum so you can use it for whatever takes ported vac. such as distributor advance.
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Post by austing on Apr 4, 2013 16:30:21 GMT -5
Hey thanks Ferox! always good to learn from your experience.
Do you have a link to a diagram of the Weber Carb by chance?
I installed the ICM that you provide me, and I've gotten it running, but now comes the time to learn about these Weber Carburetors, and how to fine tune them for the best performance/gas milage in a Justy.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2013 23:34:01 GMT -5
Hey thanks Ferox! always good to learn from your experience. Do you have a link to a diagram of the Weber Carb by chance? I installed the ICM that you provide me, and I've gotten it running, but now comes the time to learn about these Weber Carburetors, and how to fine tune them for the best performance/gas milage in a Justy. www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGAVDiaginfo.aspwww.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htmThere are three things in play when tuning a carb: timing, idle speed, and idle mixture. On the Weber, proper idle speed screw setting is vitally important. If the idle speed screw is turned in more than 1.5 turns after it makes contact with the throttle lever it will completely not run right. What I do, is slide a thin piece of paper between the idle speed screw and the throttle lever. While sliding the paper back and forth, I screw in the idle speed screw until it grabs the paper. Then I screw it in 1.25 turns. This will give you a higher idle speed for starting and tuning, but not put you over the 1.5 turn limit. Next, gently turn the idle mixture screw in just until it stops, then unscrew it 2 turns. Make sure your static timing is set correctly. Start the car. Adjust the idle mixture screw until you get lean best idle. Adjust the idle speed screw until idle rpm is within spec. Repeat as needed. Double check the timing. If the idle mixture screw is more than 1.75 turns in at lean best idle, then you need to downsize your primary idle jet. If the idle mixture screw is more than 2.25 turns out, then you need to upsize your primary idle jet. I would check to see what primary and secondary idle jets you have in there right now. They're really easy to get to since they are accessed from the exterior of the carb. All you have to do is unscrew the retainer screw for each. Make sure you don't lose the viton o-ring when you pull it out.
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Post by austing on Apr 5, 2013 14:09:24 GMT -5
Thanks Ferox, that is tremendously helpful.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2013 14:27:16 GMT -5
So let me ask: Do both of the vacuum lines from the distributor attach near eachother on the back of the Carb? Hey, Austin, I steered you wrong. I was just perusing my FSM and the Justy distributor is hooked to ported and intake vacuum...which is weird but whatever. The auxiliary timing advance or bottom vac-can on the distributor is supposed to be hooked to intake vacuum. It advances ignition timing at idle. The main vacuum advance or top vac-can on the distributor is hooked to ported vacuum...the one on the carb. It's a bit of a strange set-up, but I am guessing it has to do with trying to gain the most fuel economy. Most cars have base timing at idle without vacuum advance.
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Post by austing on Apr 22, 2013 18:41:12 GMT -5
Thanks Andre,
Where can the "Intake Vacuum" be found?
Thanks.
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Post by austing on May 3, 2013 21:38:38 GMT -5
Please excuse my ignorance, but, is there a vacuum nipple on the intake manifold that supplies "intake vacuum"?
With the Weber carburetor, is it even neccesary to have the bottom vacuum nipple on the Distributor attached to anything?
Thanks.
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2013 13:05:56 GMT -5
Please excuse my ignorance, but, is there a vacuum nipple on the intake manifold that supplies "intake vacuum"? With the Weber carburetor, is it even neccesary to have the bottom vacuum nipple on the Distributor attached to anything? Thanks. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but my intake manifold is packed away and I couldn't rely on my memory, BUT if there is an intake manifold port on the Gen I, it's probably over by the PCV valve. However, I think you are correct in asking whether it's even necessary. Since you aren't using the idle up and other carb/vacuum controls, then you probably don't need it with the Weber. If your getting good idle and good driveability without it, then I wouldn't worry about it.
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Post by austing on May 5, 2013 19:37:58 GMT -5
The problem with my Brother's Justy, is that it idles and drives fine until you hit a hill, then it just completely loses power/barely creeps up it, and even after the hill is past it doesn't have any power, until you turn it off an let it set.
I've been very busy lately, /i still need to adjust the carburetor
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Post by Deleted on May 6, 2013 22:00:45 GMT -5
The problem with my Brother's Justy, is that it idles and drives fine until you hit a hill, then it just completely loses power/barely creeps up it, and even after the hill is past it doesn't have any power, until you turn it off an let it set. I've been very busy lately, /i still need to adjust the carburetor What jets does the carb have? What are the idle mixture and idle speed screws set at? Sounds like maybe you haven't gotten to that point yet. A mis-adjusted idle speed screw could cause the problem you describe, as well as improper jetting. What is the idle rpm? I have been assuming the Weber you're talking about is a 32/36 DGEV do you know if this is true?
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Post by austing on May 7, 2013 13:33:34 GMT -5
I'm not sure what jets are currently in it, we're in the middle of a torrential spring rain storm, so I'll look into it when it dry's up.
And you are corrent, I've not yet gotten to adjusting the carb. But I do believe it is the 32/36.
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Post by austing on May 8, 2013 20:34:52 GMT -5
Alright, so we had a brake in the rain for a couple of hours earlier, and I when I took a look at the car -I can't believe I hadn't yet noticed this- I noticed that there was NO O2 sensor! could the lack of an O2 sensor cause this type of problem?
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Post by Deleted on May 8, 2013 22:33:55 GMT -5
Alright, so we had a brake in the rain for a couple of hours earlier, and I when I took a look at the car -I can't believe I hadn't yet noticed this- I noticed that there was NO O2 sensor! could the lack of an O2 sensor cause this type of problem? Yeah it would act kind of like an exhaust leak at the gasket. It's surprising how much that throws off engine. A spare spark plug should fit the hole.
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Post by austing on May 9, 2013 14:53:12 GMT -5
Alright, so I put an O2 sensor in, and took a look under the car, and I see that the guy did some sort of exhaust just, there is no CAT, the exhaust manifold is just bolted onto a metal tube where the CAT should be.
The more I try to work on this car, the less I like the guy we bought it from.
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Post by austing on Jun 15, 2013 11:45:09 GMT -5
Okay, so just to clarify: Is one turn of the idle speed screw defined as 180 degrees, or 360?
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Post by hippy on Jun 16, 2013 3:45:07 GMT -5
austing; thats like asking if a circle is 180.......think about, it you should come to your answer in time :-)
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