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Post by Paul Hayden on Jun 2, 2011 10:19:42 GMT -5
Coolant is leaking from just above the pointer in my picture. Any suggestions for fixing it? I'd like to avoid taking the whole crankcase apart if possible. I just put in a new water pump kit which fixed one problem and now I'm seeing this. I wonder if I can tighten down the "long" bolt on the water pump cover to seal this. I just don't want to overtighten or break the bolt off. Is there an additive I can put in that might seal it? Attachments:
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 2, 2011 20:29:44 GMT -5
Looks like you've upset the crankcase seal when you pulled the bolts out for the waterpump. You can try to tighten them but I would bet it will be futile. There is a chance the bolt may have grabbed the gasket on the way out and ripped it. Try some stop leak additive in the radiator, follow the instructions carefully to avoid clogging up the system and plan to do the proper repair when you can. If the gasket further deteriorates it could start mixing coolant with oil, then you will be in trouble. Terry
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Post by Paul Hayden on Jun 2, 2011 22:01:02 GMT -5
Thanks, Armageddous. I'll try that. Fingers crossed! I just got my transmission back in, and I'm wondering if you can tell me what this hose is sticking out of the top if it? It's not connected to anything, and I couldn't find a reference to it in my Chilton guide. Also, I think I need to adjust the clutch cable. I put in a new clutch, and it's working great except the clutch pedal doesn't do anything until it's pushed almost all the way down to the floor. I've never adjusted a cable system before. All my cars before were hydraulic. Attachments:
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 2, 2011 22:58:29 GMT -5
That hose is the vent for the transmission. Make sure it's not blocked internally then simply route it up high so water cannot enter in the end of it. Adjusting the clutch is easy, and can all be done from the engine bay. You will notice the clutch fork is spring loaded in the opposite direction of the way the cable pulls when the clutch pedal is applied. This is so the throwout bearing is not in constant contact with the pressure plate and also maintains freeplay, which is the distance the clutch fork travels before the throwout bearing reaches the pressure plate. Grab the end of the clutch fork and yank it away from the spring, this is your freeplay. Measure, or estimate the distance traveled from the relaxed position. Anything over .5inch is too much, and you should aim between .25inch and .5inch. Adjust the freeplay by loosening the 14mm nuts on the clutch cable and by tightening and loosening them in tandem you can adjust it however you like. Less freeplay is a high clutch, more freeplay is a low clutch. If you absolutely cannot obtain a proper adjustment at the cable, you will need to adjust the pedal. But one step at a time. Terry
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Post by Paul Hayden on Jun 4, 2011 0:47:35 GMT -5
I put half a bottle of "Bar's Leaks" into the radiator, topped it off, and drove around for half an hour like the instructions said. It looks like it's working. I don't see the coolant dripping. Woo hoo!
I'll try the clutch adjustment tomorrow. Thanks for the tips!
I have two other symptoms I'm troubleshooting now. There's a loud rattling noise when I accelerate quickly in first and second gears. Not sure where it's coming from. Ugh.
And I feel a little bid of grinding when shifting into second gear. Hopefully I just need to put more oil in the transmission.
Thank you!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2011 13:53:47 GMT -5
That hose is the vent for the transmission. Make sure it's not blocked internally then simply route it up high so water cannot enter in the end of it. Adjusting the clutch is easy, and can all be done from the engine bay. You will notice the clutch fork is spring loaded in the opposite direction of the way the cable pulls when the clutch pedal is applied. This is so the throwout bearing is not in constant contact with the pressure plate and also maintains freeplay, which is the distance the clutch fork travels before the throwout bearing reaches the pressure plate. Grab the end of the clutch fork and yank it away from the spring, this is your freeplay. Measure, or estimate the distance traveled from the relaxed position. Anything over .5inch is too much, and you should aim between .25inch and .5inch. Adjust the freeplay by loosening the 14mm nuts on the clutch cable and by tightening and loosening them in tandem you can adjust it however you like. Less freeplay is a high clutch, more freeplay is a low clutch. If you absolutely cannot obtain a proper adjustment at the cable, you will need to adjust the pedal. But one step at a time. Terry This is an awesome post, and a great break-down on cable clutch-adjustments. Also regarding the crunchy 2nd gear, I assume you are talking about a 4WD car in this case. If so, replace your shifter bushings ASAP!! On my '91, it had a decided grind into 2nd and the previous owner told me "I just stopped using it" it was so bad... Great... I had the transmission rebuilt and eventually sold the car. Reported that the crunch came back after about 5k miles. After inspecting the shifter mechanism when the car came back (I still do oil changes and routine maintenance on the car) I noticed that all of the shifter bushings were hard as a rock, and when I had a helper move the shifter - the actual pivot "cup" itself was moving almost as much as the shifter was, meaning that the linkage "geometry" had effectively changed due to the dry/hard/worn bushings. Most notably the rear bushing that locates the rear of the shifter assembly, and the two round bushings at the front of the control rod (probably got the name wrong, the rod that doesn't move and locates the shifter pivot). Anyway long story short, the car was just in the shop for a water pump and I had the guy swap out all the shifter bushings and the lower engine/trans mounts and the owner called me excited after a drive home saying it shifts MUCH tighter now, and the grind is gone. Might be worth a shot.
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Post by Paul Hayden on Jun 6, 2011 19:06:46 GMT -5
Thanks! Actually, my car is a 1990 2WD. I'm guessing it has shifter bushings too. I'll look into it.
Right now I can't get the transmission oil dipstick off. Does it turn off or just pull out? I already broke the handle off. Kinda makes me think the previous owner never checked it.
Paul
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 6, 2011 21:24:05 GMT -5
On my 1st gen transmission, the dip stick unscrewed. My 2nd gen one just pulls out.. Yours being 2nd generation I would assume just pulls out? Keep in mind, in order to check the oil you need to rest the rubber portion on the transmission case with the dipstick travelling the full distance through the transmission case. IE, don't stick the plug back in like an engine dipstick. Or simply drain and refill at around 3qts. The "dry" fill capacity is 3.5qts but you won't get it all just by pulling the drain plug. Justy transmissions use GL-4 fluid, do not use GL-5 or you will wreck it. Terry
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Post by Paul Hayden on Jun 7, 2011 9:38:01 GMT -5
Thanks. I was going to use GL-5, but I haven't opened it yet. Hopefully I can exchange it. I guess I'll drain and refill it since I don't know what's in there, and the owner's manual says not to mix brands.
Paul
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Post by Paul Hayden on Jun 7, 2011 23:27:06 GMT -5
My transmission dipstick was so seized up I had to get medieval on it. First the handle broke off. Then I tried vice grips, but just ended up shredding what was left of the plastic top. So I grinded it down flat and started drilling holes, driving in wood screws and pulling them with chains and my handy engine support bar. It took about three hard pulls and it finally came out. My drill bit broke off and fell into the transmission and I had to fish it out with a magnet. I think there's still a little shrapnel in there, but oh well. I refilled it with GL-4 gear oil and replaced the dipstick with an expandable plug. Voila! The grinding when shifting into 2nd has stopped. I also adjusted the clutch cable per Terry's instructions, and it works beautifully. Thanks! Attachments:
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Post by sask1949 on Jun 8, 2011 1:07:03 GMT -5
Do I use gl4 or gl5 gear oil in my manual 5 speed transmission on 1990 gl?
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Post by Paul Hayden on Jun 8, 2011 9:27:33 GMT -5
GL-4. Thankfully Armageddous warned me before I put the wrong stuff in mine. I didn't realize it made a difference. I have a 1990 Owner's Manual, and it says GL-4.
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Post by Armageddous on Jun 8, 2011 16:31:08 GMT -5
Wow, and medieval you did. Impressive. So did it pull out or did you rip out the threads? Glad to hear it all worked out. Thats one for the record books! Terry
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Post by Paul Hayden on Jun 8, 2011 17:24:46 GMT -5
Thanks! It looks like it was meant to simply pull out like you said, but the plastic was completely bonded with the metal. It required a lot of force to pull it out. On two attempts the wood screw just tore through the plastic.
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